Heated-activated PVA: In this example, the paper is first coated with PVA and allowed to dry. You then use an iron to apply it to the board. There was some slight warping and I did put it under some weight. So far it looks pretty flat. This method gets a nice even adhesion with no bubbles. This method adds an extra step in prepping the boards before sewing.I had a lot of hope for this method. It is similar to the idea of fusible web. PVA (polyvinyl acetate) acts like a form of plastic (vinyl polymer) which is susceptible to heat. When heated with an iron, the PVA melts and adheres to another surface as it cools. This method is similar to how picture framers dry mount artwork. Dry mounting has the advantage of superior temperature and pressure control along with a vacuum.
In my testing, I found that it did adhere to the chipboard without bubbling up or causing the chipboard to warp too much. I pressed the samples under some weights as it cooled. After I pulled it out, I let the boards sit on the table for a few hours and I noticed a problem. The coated side of the chip board looked beautiful. On the uncoated side, the paper bubbled up and pulled away from the chipboard. The melted PVA must have interacted with the wax coating on the chipboard, but the reverse side had nothing to help hold it down. I initially thought my iron may have been too hot and I tried a sample with a lower temp. I had the same results.
And you can see that without much effort I could lift the paper up.
I am sure I could experiment some more, but I think this method is probably not worth the effort.