September 22, 2011

So I started a blouse pt. 3

I finally attached the collar and sleeves on my blouse. I'm not happy with the collar. I did the usual home sewist application and it looks terrible. In the back of my mind, I knew this wouldn't look right but I continued on anyway. I haven't made a shirt in years and I couldn't remember quite how I did it before.

So this is how I did it:

  1. Sew and turn collar. Press. Topstitch
  2. Attach collar stand to collar. Press.
  3. Attach one side of collar stand to shirt, wrapping button band around. Press seam allowances up.
  4. Press and pin collar stand to inside neck. Topstitch collar stand.

I looked closer at my example shirt and I can see it was sewn differently.

  1. Sew and turn collar. Press. Topstitch.
  2. Attach collar stand to collar on one side (outside facing).
  3. Attach collar stand to neck. Stitch collar stand curve and as far as possible on top edge - sandwiching the collar. Turn out and press. Press under remaining seam allowance on collar stand.
  4. Top stitch collar stand, catching remaining open seam.

So, I will be ripping this collar off and trying it again. I do have some pattern checking/tweaking to do. You can see my notes in the picture above.

  1. Lengthen collar band 1/8"
  2. Check collar length/width
  3. Reset left sleeve - puckers.
  4. Refigure collar/band construction steps.
  5. White shows everything.
  6. Sleeve cuffs?
  7. Smooth collar band curve

And I need to:

    8. Buy better interfacing.


  1. I'm sorry your first attempt at attaching the collar and stand didn't work out well. As a home sewer, I can say that there are numerous methods promoted within the community, so I'm not sure that any one of them is "usual". In fact, lately I haven't come across any that wrap the button band around the collar stand. Rather, the two collar stands are attached "around" the button band.

    Regardless, I'm working through attaching the stand to the neck for my own blouse projects and haven't settled on a foolproof way yet. Would you consider taking pictures of the process when you try again? I'd be very interested in comparing what you come up with to what I've been trying.

  2. ¥ou should check out Pamela Erny's blog. She is a professional men's shirtmaker and also sells really good interfacing and elastics from her webstore:

    I am planning to make shirts for Paul so I am looking forward to see your progress.