October 13, 2011

So I started a blouse pt. 7

First a few words on my February Lady Sweater. I have finished the yoke and started the lace. I haven't made enough progress to really show you, but perhaps soon.

So back to collars. This blouse was originally meant to be the muslin for a better blouse to come later. So I used my stash of poly-cotton broadcloth and cheap, non-woven fusible interfacing (garbage interfacing). My first collar attempt was sewn with my garbage interfacing and it looked terrible. For my next collar attempt, I switched to a lightweight woven fusible. It made my cheap fabric look amazing. You can really see the difference in the photo.

You can see that the primary problem with the garbage interfacing is good adhesion. And no matter how carefully I followed the instructions, it still failed. You can see the buckling and separation in the photo below.

I changed up my collar pattern on version 2. There is now an upper and under collar. The under collar is just slightly smaller in width than the upper. I won't say by how much because it depends entirely on the amount of fabric required for the "turn of cloth" - or the amount taken up when the fabric is folded over. You can imagine that in a lightweight broadcloth that amount would be very small. In the picture below, I did some random testing on some scrap fabric. The results speak for themselves. The added benefit is that the under collar pulls the seam away from the edge ever so slightly. Because this is hard to photograph, you'll just have to try it for yourself. You can read more about this at the Fashion Incubator blog.

Before I actually stitched my collar on for the second time, I decided to study a RTW shirt in greater detail. More about this later.

1 comment:

  1. I'm enjoying your updates, Esther.

    My own collar is finished and waiting to be attached to the stand. Hopefully, I'll get that done this weekend. I think I'll try Pam Erny's method for attaching stand to neckline (yet again) and try to figure out why mine don't get quite right. I always have trouble getting the inner stand to completely cover the neckline seam, and I've never figured out what I'm doing wrong.