October 18, 2012

The blouse revisited pt. 1

The one thing that bothered me the most about my blouse pattern was the collar band. In the picture above you can see how the band on the white blouse comes down in a V. I was attempting to copy the band on the blue blouse that I had purchased. There is a significant difference in how these two blouses look when buttoned at the neck. The blue blouse curves nicely where the white blouse does not. The band on the white blouse is also too tight.

I went back to my pattern and re-measured the neck and band and found the band was 3/16" too small. Also, I decided to try curving the ends of the band up more. You can make the same alteration by slicing through the band from the collar edge to the neck edge without cutting all the way through. Then overlap it along the collar edge. The drawing below shows what I mean (click for a larger view).

Be sure to recheck measurements and the seam with the collar and neck as some adjustments may be needed.

I think the collar and band came out really good. Attaching the collar band to the neck of the shirt is still the most difficult part. I think it's just a matter of practice. I did mess up and set the buttonhole too far back. No big deal since I won't actually wear it buttoned anyway.

And for whatever reason, the interfacing didn't give me any problems. Fusible interfacing has given me a lot of problems in the recent past with poor adhesion and shrinkage. We'll see how this washes up.

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