April 21, 2006

A brief review of Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear


I finally received a copy of Winifred Aldrich's book on pattern cutting for children. I have never created my own blocks for children as I relied on my employer's existing pattern blocks. In college and in my first employment, I used Helen Armstrong's patternmaking book. The Armstrong book completely skips over infant sizes - at least in my edition of the book. Just about any patternmaking manual will give basic instructions on how to draft a pattern. The problem is the drafting instructions do not give you the correct measurements or proportions for an infant. Aldrich's book is an exception and starts off with basic drafts for infants. So now that I have this book, I finally feel like I can make progress on developing my own pattern blocks for children.

I am accustomed to American sizing and Imperial measurements. Aldrich is from Great Britain and she uses British fashion terms and metric measurements. I have to read things very closely and study the charts carefully to understand the things she is talking about. Despite that, the book is excellent. I can sit at the feet of a master pattern cutter and learn from her years of experience and wisdom.

I have yet to decide on making my blocks using the metric system or not. I may use her drafting methods and substitute my own imperial measurements. I have one measurement chart based off the US measurement study done in 1975 and I keep going back to it. Plus, I like the way she has broken down infant/toddler sizing to reduce redundant sizing. I will blog more about this topic later.

The book includes data from Aldrich's own measurement study on children's sizes. And surprisingly, her measurements are not dissimilar from a British government study released in 1988-1989. The British (and really the EU)  designate children's sizes based on height with age being a reference. There are many advantages to such a system. Again, more about that later.

2019 note: Links are Amazon affiliate links. When I wrote this, I referred to an earlier edition of both Winifred Aldrich and Armstrong's books. Links are to newer editions for the reader's convenience.

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