Showing posts with label Sewing Patterns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sewing Patterns. Show all posts

July 03, 2007

A boy's shirt pattern fix for Butterick 6030 pt. 3

A boy's shirt pattern fix for Butterick 6030 pt. 1 is here
A boy's shirt pattern fix for Butterick 6030 pt. 2 is here
 
A continuation of my boy's shirt pattern fix....

4. Finish collar. Clip neck seam allowances near shoulder seams. Turn seam allowance of top collar under and push the remaining neck seam allowances into collar. Topstitch. Tack facing down along shoulder seams. Notice I included my care/content tag when I topstitched the collar closed.

Neckline finish for a shirt
5. Hem the sleeve. Attach sleeve to armhole flat. Close the side seam and sleeve. At this point I noticed the sleeve cap didn't match up to the armscye. So one more pattern fix to make - I made do for the sample.

Attach sleeve to shirt
At this point I decided not finish up the sample. Instead I put the shirt on the form to look at the overall proportions. The collar area looks nice and right on target.

Checking a shirt for fit
The overall proportion of the shirt still looks too big for a size 24 months. I didn't make any changes to the original pattern in body width or length and I should have. I will double check those measurements on my pattern and make adjustments. At this point, there is little of the original pattern left and I really should have just drafted my own pattern. The original Butterick 6030 pattern is heading to the trash. BTW, anyone like my two tone work room? I desperately need to repaint it.

Hawaiian boys shirt

June 28, 2007

A boy's shirt pattern fix for Butterick 6030 pt. 2

A boy's shirt pattern fix for Butterick 6030 pt.1 is here

Well I spent a few hours working on this pattern and sewed up a sample. I decided to go ahead and do a style similar to the original. My sample is a basic shirt with a convertible collar. Once the patterns are completely worked out, endless style variations can be developed. So far I have corrected:
  • Neckline smaller
  • Reduced and reshaped front self-facing
  • Reduced seam allowances. 1/4" s.a. for the neckline, 3/8" everywhere else.
  • Drafted a new collar - a one piece collar that folds in half.
I thought it might be useful for my readers to see how I construct a simple, casual shirt. This is not a finely tailored shirt, by any means - just the basics to test the pattern. These steps are production-style but allow for use of home sewing machines. At this point, I assume the pieces have been cut and markings and notches have been transferred. BTW, I reduced the number of notches and only used two drill holes (could use chalk) for the pocket placement. Also, you'll notice I did not use any interfacing. Interfacing is often eliminated in children's clothing from budget to high-end clothing. Firmly woven fabrics may not need any stiffening. During product development test and see if you really need it.

1. Prep work - edge finish the the pocket edges and long edges of facing. Fold collar in half and stitch collar ends (called "close" in the industry). Sew shoulder seams.
Edge finish a pocket before attaching to front
Sew collar ends
2. Details. Turn and press collar. Use a pocket template and press pocket. Stitch pocket hem. Topstitch pocket to left shirt front. Edgestitch collar. I think collars look best edgestitched 1/8" from edge. Further away can look homemade - but depends on style.

Edgestitch collar
3. Attach collar. This looks more complex than it is. This fabric is hard to see but there are three notches on the collar. Two match up with the shoulder seam and one for the center back neck match-up points. Sandwich the collar between the front facing and neck (notches on shirt front indicate center front neck where collar starts and and another for the fold back of facing). Clip the top collar at the shoulder seam point a little less than the seam allowance depth 1/4". Stitch the collar on using a 1/4" seam allowance, flip the seam allowance of the top collar out of the way. Notice there is no grading and clipping (my least favorite thing to do).

Attaching the collar to the neck edge
Tomorrow I'll show how to finish the collar, attach sleeves and give a review of the results.

June 11, 2007

Simplicity 3295 and vintage pattern measurements

A reader asked a very interesting question

I have started sewing for my 20 month old son and some of his friends and was wondering if you have any experience with vintage patterns (1940's, 50's, 60's). Specifically I'm wondering if you have any thoughts on size variations. I'm sure you are familiar with the dramatic shifts in women's pattern sizes (the 1940's pattern size 12 is very different from the current pattern size 12)...I'm wondering if the same shifts occurred in children's sizes. Any thoughts you would be willing to pass on would be much appreciated!

This question was a little difficult for me to answer because I don't use home sewing patterns very often (not for children, anyway). They require too much work to correct. They have a lot of sloppy patternmaking. It is easier to pull out proven blocks and draft whatever style I want. I will buy a commercial pattern only when I have difficulty figuring out a more difficult design, such as a sleeper and then I only refer to it. I almost always draft my own patterns.

At one time, I thought a collection of vintage children's patterns would be pretty neat to have. I started collecting a while a go, but haven't added much to it. See, I don't actually look at the pattern pieces. Instead, I collect the patterns for design inspiration - in other words, I like the pretty pictures. I can draft patterns with the same style using my own personal blocks. This is one of the few vintage patterns I have from 1950.

Vintage Simplicity 3295 girls dress pattern

I liked this pattern because it has an unusual skirt, pleated fullness in back and a gathered front waist. The bodice has a built-in cap/kimono sleeve. Besides, it is cute!

Now the question of sizing differences between then and now is also a difficult to answer. I haven't really done the research to be able to supply a truly adequate answer. I checked the measurements on the back of this envelope against my collection of measurement charts and the 1950 measurements fall within an acceptable range of contemporary measurements. In fact, the body measurements for this pattern were a little larger than today's measurements. I found this surprising considering the extensive reporting about childhood obesity. Of course, this is one style, in one size, from one company. I don't know how other vintage patterns may measure up. The best thing, of course, is to measure your own child and compare the measurements with the pattern envelope charts.

One difference that may exist between vintage and contemporary patterns is the amount of ease, design and wearing. Styles from the 1960's may fit closer to the body versus styles from the 1980's. This may cause one to think the patterns from the 60's were made to fit smaller people versus larger people in the 80's. The reality is that the prevailing styles influenced fit. It is helpful to try and look at the patterns from the correct perspective. Unless you are striving for authenticity, it is worth the time to draft your own patterns.

I haven't really seen a "vanity" sizing shift in children's clothing that is comparable to women's clothing. US Children's sizes are based on age designations. If anything, the sizing has become more specific. The 1950's may have had one infant size and then start with toddler sizing as 1, 2, 3, etc. Now, infant sizing is broken down by age too -- 0-3M, for example. Measurements are derived from the average measurements of children in each age grouping. Some consumers become frustrated by this sizing system because their children may vary from the norm (not to mention every manufacturer sizes differently). They may have a 2 year old child that actually wears a 4T. Trying on multiple sizes of one style can cause frustration in a changing room, if parents even take the time to try clothes on.

European sizing is evolving to a more intelligent sizing system. The Europeans are basing their sizing on height and weight measurements, available on hang tags and labels. Body size measurements are broken down by age grouping too, but they are not given age designations. This concept enables the consumer to buy the most appropriate size regardless of the age of the child.