Patches and Pinwheels pt. 4

I love making serious progress on a long term project on New Year's Eve and Day. This year is no exception. I have finished the piecing and borders on the Patches and Pinwheels quilt. (More pictures will come after the quilting is finished). The quilt measures about 96 x 96 inches.

I had enough yardage of the green border fabric to also use it for the backing. If I were to buy "quilt" shop quality fabric, the backing alone would have been at least $100. I did not spend anywhere near that amount. The green fabric was left over from a purchase made several years ago and I can't remember what I paid for it. I'm glad I found a project for it because the fabric had been sitting all those years. The majority of the fabrics for the pieced blocks came from DH's shirts that were worn through in the collars and cuffs, but still had good fabric in the body. I supplemented with a few shirts from the thrift store and a few white fat quarters. All told I spent about $15 for the fabric (plus whatever the green cost several years ago). All that's left is to buy a batting and then decide on the quilting. Do I pay someone to quilt it or do it myself? I am undecided there.

Which brings me to the cost of quilting fabric today. I know for many this is a fun hobby, but the cost of quilting fabric is just so crazy high right now. $12-$15/yard for fabric! I know there are some alternatives and I can shop sales, but yikes! This is why I have turned to the thrift store and scrappy quilts. I don't have a problem using clothing for quilting fabric. It's what our mothers and grandmothers did years ago out of necessity. Now, I wonder if it is wasteful just to toss our old clothes? Sure, some are suitable for donation (and I do donate a lot). But there are some things that could be useful for something like this. This quilt project has definitely made me look at thrift stores as a new source for supplies.

This is a Bonnie Hunter design. I chose to try one of Bonnie's designs to better understand her process. I think she designs quilts in two different ways. I do think many of her designs are created using eQuilter. While she does incorporate scraps into her designs, the overall visual affect can only be achieved by using a design tool like eQuilter (She has dropped hints that she does use the software). Her method of using standard piece sizes also makes a difference in efficiency and utilization of both time and fabric. Other quilt designs are a bit more freeform. In other words, she doesn't start in eQuilter, but rather puts pieces together (such as leader and ender piecing) that eventually are put together into blocks and then quilts. Because she uses standard sizes, everything eventually finds its way into a finished quilt top. It is a very smart way of utilizing scraps.

This design is one of Bonnie's free quilt patterns at her website. The instructions are more of a tutorial without specific piece counts and yardage requirements. I think it could be a bit of challenge for a beginner. The small piece sizes and precision sewing is also a challenge. I had a fair bit of fixing to do because of either cutting and/or sewing errors. The patterns published on Bonnie's website, while I know they are free, could use a bit of editing. I do appreciate the effort and work it takes to put something like this together. I wonder if her published books/patterns are more polished. She does take her mystery projects down and provides them for sale after the mystery is over. I hope the "sale" versions are better edited and presented over the free-form versions given on the website.

I don't know if I will make another Bonnie Hunter quilt. I am pleased with how this quilt came out and I am glad I made it. Now that I understand the process, I think I can design my own scrappy quilts. That should be a fun challenge.

What makes a second a second in apparel quality standards?

In the fashion industry a second is an item with a few defects that can still be worn or used. If there are seconds, then there are firsts though we don't call them that. We may call them first quality, though I rarely hear that term either. The word quality, all by itself, is a controversial term with various meanings attached to it. If there are firsts and seconds, then there are also thirds.

The goal of any company is to produce goods without any defects for the least amount of money possible. But as we all live in the real world, defects happen. I've worked for three different companies and how each handled defects were roughly the same. Each company came up with a ranking system to evaluate product during production and as it came off the line. Each ranking was called something a little different though they conveyed the same meaning. The qualification for each ranking varied and the product that fell into each ranking was handled differently. Here is a brief break down.

First - top quality goods with no obvious defects

Second - goods with X number of defects that may or may not be repaired, but still wearable or usable and can be sold on a secondary market.

Third - goods with sufficient number of serious defects to render the item unwearable or usable. These goods may be sold for scrap and may be called rejects.

Quality can be subjective and that can cause problems not only in production but in the retail sector. A first quality item can be rendered second or third after it's first wearing and washing. In that case, was the item truly a first quality item? Perhaps not. Likewise, a second can be repaired sufficiently to make it a first quality item. But is it financially feasible to repair a second to make it a first? These are all questions that individual companies must deal with as they develop and sell product. In order to not get too long-winded on this subject, let's look at something I recently purchased at the thrift store.

This is a cute knit top that I found at a thrift store for a few dollars. It looked pretty good when I tried it on in the dressing room, but as usual the lighting was bad and I missed some obvious problems. Once home I tried it on again and immediately saw a problem with the gathers on the neckband. I also noticed the brand label and content tag were off center. Also the elastic on one of the sleeve hems was pulling away. It is true that most thrift store clothes are previously worn and I have no doubt this shirt fit that category. But because of the defects, I think this shirt started life as a second and was likely sold at an outlet store or other secondary market.

A closer look reveals the problem on the neckline. There is some fabric caught in the seam. Unfortunately, I did not take any pictures of the problem from the other side, but the fabric caught in the stitching is more obvious. 

This style of neckline would be difficult to sew, especially in a factory. First, each gathered area was pre-gathered by applying 1/4 inch clear elastic - stretched between notches. Next, the operator prepares the neck band. The tie and neckband are one piece. The tie portion is sewn and turned out and the rest of the neckband is folded in half. Hopefully there were notches to help the operator position the neck band on the neck, otherwise it would be easy to skew the neckband. Anyway, the operator matches up the neckband to the neckline, starting the sewing on the left side neck. The neckband would be on top and the neckline on bottom. The operator has to match the pre-gathered section from underneath to meet a match point on the band, catch enough of the seam under the foot securely and then stitch the pre-gathered section to the neckband. Hopefully there is another notch to indicate where the pre-gathered section should end. The sewing continues around the neck to the right side, where there is hopefully another notch to indicate where the next pre-gathered section should start. The neckline is then finished off, overedging the center front neck which is left unattached from the neckband. This small section is later topstitched down. Finally, the next operator would place the brand and size label to the back neck with a single needle machine within the seam allowance of the neckband/neckline.


The most difficult part of this whole sequence of steps would be where the operator starts attaching the neckband on the left side. The pre-gathered section is not stable and will move around as the pieces are placed under the foot. This is what happened here. Some additional fabric worked its way under the foot as the sewing began. The label placement would be difficult because the operator would have to guess where center back is and place the labels on a knit top that likes to move around.

This type of defect would have been difficult to repair in a factory. The elastic and two rows of stitching would be time consuming to undo and redo and look good. The poor placement of the brand labels would have been a second strike. The top was still wearable though and likely sold as a second or at a steep discount. I imagine there were quite a few seconds on this style....

Anyway, I was able to repair this top. I carefully unpicked the band with my fingers crossed that none of the shirt was cut when it was stitched. Luckily it wasn't. I removed some of the elastic in the affected area (it wasn't worth redoing the whole gathered area with the elastic), and regathered the neckline with a needle and thread. I then basted the neckband and neckline together to double check it was all right and stitched it back together. Almost as good as new - at least you can't tell there had ever been a problem.

Vintage pattern reivew : Simplicity 5040

It's rare that I find a vintage pattern in my size, or close to my size, at the thrift store. I can't help looking through them anyway. I have yet to make up any of the styles that I've acquired over the years because I would need to grade them up or down in order for them to fit. I was happy when I found this one, Simplicity 5040, in my size and in a style that I like.

I initially assumed this style would have a side zipper and that the skirt was gathered. How else would one get it on? There is no back zipper and only the button front closure that ends at the waist. I was a little surprised to find that the skirt has a placket hidden under a pleat below the front button closure. A pleated skirt is, in many ways, more flattering than a gathered skirt - at least on me..

The suggested fabrics run quite a range: cottons, synthetics, blends, silk, linen, chiffon, brocade, lightweight wools, wool-crepe, wool jersey, and corduroy. While I'm sure any of those fabrics might work, they would all give an entirely different look and require different handling. I don't have a fabric picked out for this yet, but I'm leaning toward cotton. I'll have to look at my stash and see what might work. I'll also need to make a petticoat slip.

Even though the pattern has all the appearances of being my size, the measurements on the back envelope indicate I will have to make adjustments. This is looking more and more like a lot of work. Hmm... I do plan to make this up, just not sure when.

Fitting Frustrations

Sitting in one of my pattern drafting classes in design school, my professor tried to explain common fitting dilemmas.

"No one is a perfect pattern size!" said Dr. S, referring to the measurements on the back of a pattern envelope from one of the big pattern companies.

And yet, I was an exception. I could pull out a pattern and a tape measure and my measurements would match up exactly with one of the sizes. I did not pay too much attention to my measurements because I could make up any pattern and have it fit relatively well. I only paid half attention to what Dr. S. said. After all, I "was" a perfect pattern size.

That was until ten years later. After frustration and disappointment, I have had to rediscover patternmaking and proper fit. I can no longer just make up a pattern and have it fit properly. Seams do not lay straight, hems are uneven, darts are in the wrong place. It has almost been enough to stop making clothes for myself.

Working in the fashion industry, I could rely on standard size patterns and dress forms. What’s more, I have been designing children’s clothing. Children’s bodies are relatively straight. No need to worry about bulges and curves. I could whip out a pattern and sew up a sample in an afternoon. Tweak and grade it a couple of hours later. It was a breeze.

Now I am attempting to sew for myself again. It is amazing that I could even find the occasional hour to re-explore a personal hobby. But somehow my body has changed. I am relatively fit and thin and have been most of my life. And yet, I have more curves. My clothes fit differently. I have gained and lost the typical weight that comes with the holidays. A few wrinkles and gray hairs later, I have realized that I am a different person.

I should have realized this when I have had to go shopping for jeans. I used to be able to try on one pair of jeans, just about anywhere, and have it fit. Now I have to travel to about 8 stores and try on several pairs of jeans. The discount stores never carry my size - the jeans are usually too short for my tall frame or are sized for thin teenagers. The department stores either sell out of my size or want $150. It is a hit or miss with catalogs, but I have had more success ordering pants that are long enough. Yes, I am a different person.

Now I face a sewing dilemma. If I make something for myself, using my time and money, it has to look good, fit, and last a long time. That means I can’t gain or lose weight. Curves have to stay where they are. What if I have a baby and my body shape changes again? What if by some miracle I motivate myself to start my exercise regime and my body changes shape again? And so goes the debate about sewing for myself.

As I pull out Dr. S’s book on fitting and pattern alteration, I admit I am a fitting neophyte. With trepidation, I am relearning and refining a lost skill. Things I had learned in theory actually have direct application to me. With my measurements falling all over the map, I realize I am no longer a "perfect" pattern size. And yet, all of this is a "perfect" motivation to keep on stitching (and fitting!).