Metric pattern cutting for children's wear and babywear - 4th Edition

Winifred Aldrich has released an updated edition of her pattern making book. Besides having a much nicer cover design, it reportedly contains a revised organization and emphasis on flat pattern making. I find this change interesting because more and more design entrepreneurs are utilizing flat pattern making today and this confirms my personal experiences in the industry.

From the abstract at Amazon:

Today’s popularity of easy-fitting styles and knitted fabrics means that basic ‘flat’ pattern cutting is used to construct the majority of children’s wear and babywear and this type of cutting is therefore emphasized in this new edition. Shaped blocks and garments, cut to fit the body form, are still included, and are placed in chapters covering some school uniform garments or more expensive fashion or formal clothes.

One primary difference between flat versus fitted pattern making is that the patterns have the same shape for the front and back pieces. For example, the armhole shaping is symmetrical. Creating patterns in this way results in a looser, more casual fit and it is appropriate for a lot of children's clothing. Even so, I see more of a modified flat method in actual use. Patterns are modified so that they aren't quite so boxy and more fitted. Yet, they retain some symmetry between front and back pieces.

Aldrich vs. Armstrong pattern drafting books

The two most useful (IMO) books for children's pattern making are by Winifred Aldrichand Helen Armstrong. There are others, but I rarely consider them because they lack essential information, and/or are outdated. Some of you may ask about Childrenswear Design by Hilda Jaffe and Rosa Rosa. IMO, Childrenswear Design offers a decent overview of the biz but lacks a lot of detail in the pattern making chapter. Both Aldrich and Armstrong are good references, though I have a stronger preference for one over the other. Tiki has left some interesting comments on another blog entry about her comparison of Aldrich vs. Armstrong. I thought it might be useful to reprint them in a separate blog entry. I'll follow up with my own opinions about the strengths and weaknesses of each book.

From Tiki:

I've been doing the same, pouring over measuring charts and re-working patterns. My 4 y.o. is my fit model, though, so I do have the luxury (ha!) of dressing her up when I need a fit, but it's by no means easier than having a dress form that won't want to dance around the room while I'm trying to check the fit.

Thank you so much for your explanation below about the flat patterns. I meant to respond earlier, but then got caught up in the holiday madness. Anyway, after much pondering conceptually over the "right" pattern method, I was encouraged by your explanation, especially that it's the fit that matters, not so much the method for getting there. I know that probably sounds simple and obvious, but since I have no formal patternmaking training, everything is a learning experience and I sometimes get stymied because I want to do everything "right." So I finally put pencil to paper to draft Aldrich's and Armstrong's patterns and compare them to mine. My patterns are a more like Aldrich's classic, although my armhole shape isn't quite as cut out (so my armhole is somewhat in between her flat and classic). I think the shoulder width on her flat block is too wide, but I guess that's part of what creates a boxier fit versus the slimmer fit of her classic block.

I did notice that Aldrich seems to modify the front armhole and lowers the front shoulder slope even in her "flat" blocks for wovens (on the infant woven on p. 25 and on the body/shirt block on p. 39), although it's not as pronounced as in her classic block (on p. 89). And when I cut out my front and back patterns for the classic block and woven flat block, the shape and contrast between the front and back of each are not that different. In other words, the difference in the armhole shape between the front of the classic and the back of the classic is very similar to the difference in the armhole shape between the front woven flat block and the back woven flat block (I laid the fronts over the backs and compared). Of course, the armhole shaping between the front classic block and the front woven flat block are significantly different, as are the back classic and back woven flat. I'm not sure exactly what that means, really, except that she seems to apply the "true" flat (meaning identical front and back except for the neckline) as you suggested to casual knit boxy styles like t-shirts (which she drafts also for older children on p. 45).

One more thing about Aldrich's book that I find confusing. I do prefer her drafting method to Armstrong's (for children, I haven't done anything with either of their adult patterns)--it seems simpler because it uses fewer complicated measurements (I suppose because she makes certain educated assumptions about the slope of the shoulder, etc rather than using actual measurements).

However, her book seems a bit schizophrenic, like several people drafted different patterns and she compiled them into one book. For example, the points (0,1,2,3, etc) are not in the same places in her various patterns--sometimes point 0 is center front and sometimes it is a point just above center front that lines up with the inner shoulder. Then her patternmaking steps are not consistent throughout. Sometimes she measures the width from this point 0 and then squares down and sometimes she measures the width from the center chest and then squares from there. Her patterns all end up with the same basic shape and I found following her drafting instructions for each pattern very straightforward. But I think comparing one pattern to another is difficult because in one pattern point 3 is at center chest and on another pattern point 7 is at center chest and point 3 is somewhere else. Maybe it's just my inexperience, but I found it more difficult when trying to compare, say, the chest width ease from one pattern to another, than if she followed the same drafting steps for each bodice.

I do love both books as they are great at explaining how/where to modify patterns for different styles. And I like having two resources to compare--they are both a wealth of knowledge.

If you draft your own versions from each method, I would be interested in hearing your comments. I agree with a lot of what Tiki has said about the ease of drafting Aldrich over Armstrong. Though I prefer Armstrong for some things. I am fairly certain that Aldrich created all of the drafts in her book. I think the points of reference are unique to each draft and can't be used for comparison between drafts. It may make things simpler if they were consistent. Also some of the differences may come down to European vs. American fit and expectations. Europeans tend to fit closer to the body - Americans have a boxier fit.

Anyway, here is a brief run down of the highlights (positive & negative) of each book:

Aldrich (third edition)

• Backs up measurement charts with her own measurement studies
• Simpler drafting, though some instructions may be difficult to follow
• Includes Infant sizing and basic infant drafts
• Draft instructions for flat and classic blocks
• The only book that comes close to how things are done in the industry
• The only nitpick I had was the shaping of some of her basic blocks. I agree with Tiki on the shoulder slope, shoulder width and the neckline circumference. These are easy things to adjust once you have a draft to work with. I also did not like her cap sleeve shaping - another thing that was easy to fix.

Armstrong (second edition)

• Design variations are laid out on separate pages and not squished together like Aldrich.
• Step by step draft instructions
• Easy to read measurement chart, though her chart starts at size 3
• Chapter on knitwear
• Ignores infants
• Sleeve drafts have too much ease

Making Children's Clothes by Joan Moloney

I received my copy of Making Children's Clothes Using Block-Pattern Method (1971) by Joan Moloney today.

Just so you know, this book has no measurement charts, detailed drafting instructions, or sewing instructions. Think of it as looking on the back of a home sewing pattern envelope. The author shows the pattern pieces that make up a style next to an illustration or photograph of that style. The text is full of ideas but little how-to.

On the positive side, this is one of the few books I have seen that show all of the pattern pieces that make up a complete style. This may help designers who struggle with the complete design. Also, the book clearly illustrates the shapes of the pattern pieces. Sometimes that is all one needs to draft your own version. The illustrations are charming and I will add this book to my collection as a possible source of inspiration.

The author does describe how to make your own children's dress form, although briefly. Her version made me laugh for a second and then I wondered if I should be scared. It may give you an idea of how to make your own dress form. I did make my own, which I am using now. Children do not have the patience to be fit models for very long - so I do recommend obtaining dress forms at some point. Still, it is worth the time to try clothing on a child because you may notice differences in how the fabric drapes on a moving child.

This is not a must-have book to add to your reference collection. Used copies are available through Amazon for as little as $1 plus shipping so there is really no reason to not add it either.

A Word on Handford and Children's Sizes

I have previously blogged about Jack Handford's book Professional Pattern Grading (I like this grading book!). I just graded my basic infant bodices using Handford's grading charts and I just wanted to pass on a few insights.

If you read my blog on children's sizing (Too Many Sizes!), then you will know that there is a lot of variety in how manufacturer's lay out their size ranges. Handford is not really any different. His sizing breaks down like this:

3M, 6M, 12M, 18M, 24M, 36M

You will notice that the 9M size is missing. A 9M is considered a half size between 6M and 12M. Some manufacturers include it and others skip it. After studying dozens of measurement charts, I tend to favor skipping it. Children grow really fast in the first few months of life, so there is no need to include lots of possible sizes.

Another thing to consider is his 24m and 36M sizes. His toddler sizes break down like this:

1, 2, 3, 4

Except for boutique/specialty shop stores, you don't really see toddler sizes denoted like this. Normally, the toddler range is 2T, 3T, and 4T (some throw in a 5T). Anyway, there may be some overlap between the infant and toddler sizes with your patterns. This doesn't mean you can grade all of the infant and toddler sizes together. You will still need an infant block and a toddler block. You may have some shaping differences between the two.

It took me some time to wrap my brain around his grading instructions. I could look at the diagrams and see that this was the type of grading done in the industry. Even computer grading takes it's cues from this method. The actual grading process, however, varies from computerized grading.

I am accustomed to working with all of the pieces nested together. I can select a grading point and enter in the X,Y changes. It really is pretty simple. Handford has you grade one size at a time. After grading one size, you cut it out and use it to grade the next size. Precision is absolutely key because mistakes gradually increase with each size. I eventually got the hang of it and found it to be pretty easy. Once I had all of the sizes, I nested them on top of each other and I could see how well it worked. And it did work well.

So now I have two sets of infant bodice patterns using the Handford method and an adaptation of Aldrich's measurement charts. I am going to compare the two to see which I like better. So far, there doesn't seem to be too much disagreement between them. I am also trying to decide if I should add in a 9M. Right now, I am leaning toward Handford.

Clothing for Children - a book review

I just received a book I requested through inter-library loan called Clothing For Children by Henrietta Mary Thompson and Lucille E. Rea. I had seen used copies of this book on Amazon, but I wanted to peruse a copy before deciding to buy. The book is a college level textbook written from the perspective of Home Economists. It was published in 1949, and contains many attitudes and philosophies from the time.

There are many interesting things in the book, which I hope to share with you. One curious chapter (about 75 pages) is devoted entirely to planning the child's clothing budget. It compares what clothing to buy for each age level, gender, and income level. While the numbers are amusing, it is not really of much interest. Does it matter that an urban family with a yearly income of $500 spent $26 a year on clothing for the WHOLE family? Maybe it does. Some of the numbers are surprising, and perhaps low (comparing a Gen X'er to a Baby Boomer). It certainly demonstrates a completely different attitude toward money and a clothing budget. (BTW, I have no idea how to adjust 1949 dollars for inflation and time, so it would be difficult to have a meaningful discussion anyway). It is safe to say that the modern consumer thinks of clothing as a disposable item. How many modern parents buy clothes allowing for growth? Do we really have hand-me-downs anymore? How many of us throw away clothes with treatable stains or repairable tears? As land fills over flow and raw materials become more expensive, perhaps we need to return to this type of thinking.

Here is a breakdown of the chapters:

1. Clothing and the child - psychological theories mixed with lots of opinions.

2. Planning the child's clothing in relation to the family budget

3. The infant - Standards for infants' clothing, safety & health, and other interesting things.

4. The Creeping Age - Design ideas for toddlers

5. Clothing the preschool child (2-6 years) - interesting section on "made-overs" or using adult clothes to make new clothing for children.

6-7. Clothing for the grade school girl and boy

8. Texture and Design

9. Trimmings and decorative stitches

10. Care and storage

Appendix - Factory methods in home sewing, sewing equipment, and some shortcuts.

I will probably cover chapters 3-5 and the appendix. If there is anything else that looks interesting, or perhaps you would like to know more about, be sure to leave a comment.

I like Jack Handford's book Professional Pattern Grading!

You know you might be a little strange when you do a happy dance after receiving a new book in the mail on pattern grading. That was certainly me yesterday when I received Professional Pattern Grading by Jack Hanford in the mail. This book has long been on my Amazon wishlist and I finally bought it for myself.

This is the BEST book on pattern grading. If you own the Price/Zamkoff book, just stuff it in a corner and get this one instead. The explanations are very clear and complete. And yes, this is how it is done in the industry. It was so gratifying to see that what I have learned on the job, some of it on my own, IS how it is done. The other book is too complex and ignores men's and children's styles completely. Jack Handford covers all three categories very well. And it is so nice to see that children have not been ignored. He covers infant, toddlers, boys, girls, and juniors.

This book describes manual grading with a paper and pencil. Still the concepts can be applied to computerized grading. Most of my grading is done on the computer and I will be using this book as a reference.

In fact, this book is so good, that I will not be doing my last installment on my grading series (a pictoral demo). Handford demonstrates the process well enough, there is no reason for me to duplicate it. Can I say buy the book? I will probably blog more about grading in the future, so no worries there.

I will be going back over my infant pattern/body measurement charts to see how they compare with Handford's grading. I probably will be making some adjustments. I am not too far along on developing my own infant/toddler patterns, so this is a great time to go back over them.

Knitting a toddler sweater and a book review

My current personal project is this toddler sweater. I obtained the yarn from a local thrift store. It is a soft, creamy yellow synthetic yarn and surprisingly very soft. There is enough yarn to make not only a sweater, but also a hat and mittens. I am currently working on the sleeves. I like to knit both sleeves at the same time so they both turn out exactly the same. Shouldn't be much longer and I will have this finished up.



The pattern came from the book The Knitter's Handy Book of Patterns by Ann Budd. I love this book! You just choose your yarn, needles and knit a gauge swatch. Once you know your gauge, you use her charts to knit up a sweater. The sweater is rather plain and I would like to add some embroidery to dress it up - just not sure what yet.

I don't have an intended recipient for this sweater - it will probably go to charity.

A brief review of Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear

I finally received a copy of Winifred Aldrich's book on pattern cutting for children. I have never created my own blocks for children as I relied on my employer's existing pattern blocks. In college and in my first employment, I used Helen Armstrong's patternmaking book. The Armstrong book completely skips over infant sizes - at least in my edition of the book. Just about any patternmaking manual will give basic instructions on how to draft a pattern. The problem is the drafting instructions do not give you the correct measurements or proportions for an infant. Aldrich's book is an exception and starts off with basic drafts for infants. So now that I have this book, I finally feel like I can make progress on developing my own pattern blocks for children.

I am accustomed to American sizing and Imperial measurements. Aldrich is from Great Britain and she uses British fashion terms and metric measurements. I have to read things very closely and study the charts carefully to understand the things she is talking about. Despite that, the book is excellent. I can sit at the feet of a master pattern cutter and learn from her years of experience and wisdom.

I have yet to decide on making my blocks using the metric system or not. I may use her drafting methods and substitute my own imperial measurements. I have one measurement chart based off the US measurement study done in 1975 and I keep going back to it. Plus, I like the way she has broken down infant/toddler sizing to reduce redundant sizing. I will blog more about this topic later.

The book includes data from Aldrich's own measurement study on children's sizes. And surprisingly, her measurements are not dissimilar from a British government study released in 1988-1989. The British (and really the EU)  designate children's sizes based on height with age being a reference. There are many advantages to such a system. Again, more about that later.

2019 note: Links are Amazon affiliate links. When I wrote this, I referred to an earlier edition of both Winifred Aldrich and Armstrong's books. Links are to newer editions for the reader's convenience.