Frequently Asked Questions about Tech Packs

With the release of my Tech Pack, there are a lot of questions on how to use it.

Q: Is there an industry standard for Tech Packs?

No, but there is industry expected information. There are several tech pack templates and forms available for purchase on the Internet, and they are all a bit different in presentation. Generally, those tech packs seek the same information. A Tech Pack contains any and all information needed to manufacture your product. This information includes a cover page, technical drawings, cutting specs, labels, etc. The forms included in my Tech Pack allow for a lot of flexibility so it doesn't matter if you are manufacturing clothing, bags or tents.

Q: Does a Tech Pack include a cutting spec?

I have seen some statements that imply a cutting spec is usually not included in a tech pack. That has not been my experience. If a cutting spec is needed to make your product, then it should be included in a tech pack.

Q: What forms do I send to a contractor?

Only the forms that are needed for the work contracted. It is possible to hire a contractor that can do everything from product development to cutting, sewing, finishing and shipping. Usually, a sewing contractor is hired to do cutting and sewing. In that case they only need a cover sheet, style sheet/cutting spec, bill of materials, colorways (if needed), labels, swatches, and anything else needed to complete the work. Forms that contain proprietary info are for your own in-house use, such as a cost analysis.

Q: What is the difference between a Cost Analysis and a Bill of Materials?

A Bill of Materials contains a list of every input (fabric, trim, supplies) needed to manufacture your product. It does not contain pricing. This form can be used for ordering and inventory.

A Cost Analysis also contains a list of every input but also includes pricing and quantity. This form is used to figure the cost of manufacturing, sale price, and gross profit. This information is kept confidential.

Q: What else should my Tech Pack include?

A tech pack is usually just the paper work involved in product development. But if you are sending a tech pack to a sewing contractor, you should include a perfectly sewn sample and fabric and trim swatches. This is especially important if you are manufacturing overseas where there may be a language barrier. The sample will help clarify what you want when the contractor may not understand or read the tech pack. Swatches are also helpful if the contractor is also buying materials overseas.

Q: I don't draw well, do I have to include technical drawings?

Any drawing is better than no drawing. It is the primary way you will communicate with a technical designer and/or pattern maker. You can also hire people to create the drawings for you at reasonable cost.

Q: Can I customize The Simple Tech Pack?

Yes. Included in your purchase is a spreadsheet workbook version (Excel and LibreOffice Calc). You can add your company info and logo. You can also rearrange, rename information if you choose. The only caveat is that the forms are copyrighted and cannot be resold.

Q: I'm an indie pattern designer. Will this tech pack help me?

Yes. An indie pattern designer is very similar to a fashion designer. You will still need to develop a style, cutting spec, measurements, sewing instructions and grade rules. The cost analysis will help you price your product. The Simple Tech Pack can help you organize the information needed for your final product.

Q: Why does your Tech Pack have a Style Sheet instead of a simple cutting spec?

I created a combination form called a Style Sheet. This form contains both a technical drawing and a cutting spec. I have found it very useful in product development to include a technical drawing with the cutting spec as it travels through sampling. That way every person along the way has the same point of reference. It reduces both paperwork and questions.


Do you have any other questions? Please leave a comment and I'll answer your question in an upcoming blog post.

New! A Simple Tech Pack

I am excited to announce that I have released a Tech Pack available for purchase in my Etsy Shop!


There are many versions of tech packs on the internet. I call my version A Simple Tech Pack because I have identified the most essential pieces of information needed. My forms have simple clean lines without much visual clutter. These forms will help you gather all of the needed information to manufacture your product. Included is an instructional guide on how to fill out each form. There are three versions provided – PDF, LibreOffice Calc, and Excel. In the spreadsheet workbook version, you can modify, expand, and otherwise customize these forms.

This tech pack will help you organize and present industry expected information needed to manufacture your product. There is no industry standard version of a tech pack, just the information required. I have used a version of these forms for the last 20 years either in-house or as a package sent overseas to contractors. With the included how-to guide, there is no need to track down extra videos or tutorials. This tech pack is perfect for fashion designers, design entrepreneurs, or anyone developing a sewn product.

Forms included in the Simple Tech Pack:

Cover Sheet
Style Sheet/Cutting Spec
Details
Cost Analysis
Bill of Materials
Colorways
Finished Pattern Measurements
Finished Pattern Measurement Drawings
Grade Rules
Grade Rules Blank
Labels
Sewing Instructions
Fabric Swatches
Trim Swatches
Blank Swatches

Bonus!
Wash Testing Guide and Form

No physical product will be shipped. You will receive 3 digital files in a zipped folder. After downloading the folder, you will need to extract the files – most computers have this option available, look for the word “extract” after double clicking on the folder.

There are no refunds on digital sales. Please contact me if you have any questions or concerns. I will do my best to help you.

In full disclosure, some of these forms are also found in my book The Organized Fashion Designer. I did not see the need to create something new when it already existed in the form needed. In addition I have added several forms not included with the book, including a bonus form for wash testing. With your purchase, you will receive these forms as a spreadsheet workbook and a PDF. You can fill out the forms in Excel, OpenOffice/LibreOffice, or by hand. Which ever way you prefer. For complete organization of your studio, you can purchase both products to compliment each other. The Organized Fashion Designer is available for purchase on Etsy, Amazon, and Lulu.com.

A question on the drawstring rule and children's clothing

I received a question about drawstrings* and elastic waists.

I want to design skirts with elastic waists and a ties that are sewn in by the hem, which then connect to a bow. Is this not acceptable to the Drawstring rule CPSIA? So confused on this. If isn't acceptable, can I do a skirt with elastic waists and sew a bow in the middle?

In the United States there is a safety rule about drawstrings on children's upper outerwear.** This rule does not allow drawstrings in hoods or waists of jackets or hoodies, for example. A drawstring is a cord with or without a toggle that is inserted in a channel. The intent of a drawstring is to cinch up a waist or hood opening to make it smaller. This rule was enacted because children have died when the toggle or knot on the drawstring became entangled on playground equipment and bus doors. It appears the CPSC has added a bit of clarity to the original rule. You actually can have drawstrings so long as the drawstring does not extend more than three inches and has been securely stitched through in the middle of the channel so it cannot be pulled out.

This hoodie uses ribbing to help it fit closer around the head, instead of a drawstring.

But if I were you, I would avoid using drawstrings altogether in children's clothing. The reason is rather simple. There continue to be drawstring recalls even with almost no reports of injury or death. As of 2012, there have been more than 130 recalls involving drawstrings. The most recent is of a rain poncho. In this example it's clear there are no toggles or knots on the drawstring, the string is just too long (no reports of injury). The rule covers children 2T-16, but there have been recalls on infant clothing too. There was an odd recall of an elastic waist belt on a jacket (no injuries).

The recent rule revision appears to focus almost entirely on upper outerwear like jackets, sweaters, and hoodies. But historically there have been recalls on pants with drawstring waists. For this reason, I do not recommend drawstrings on any children's clothing. The risk is too great. Even though the majority of the recalls in the last 10 years have had no injuries or death, there have been a few. Also, the CPSC seems to inconsistently apply the rule, including the apparent exception of a three inch extension. There is just no way to predict what might happen.

To answer the first question above, I would try to avoid sewing things onto the ends of ties. That seems to fall into the drawstring with toggles or knots category. I think a bow sewn securely through on top of an elastic waist should be ok.

Waist ties and belts have not been involved in any product recalls, as far as I know, and are not included in this rule. Girls dresses, in particular, frequently have waist ties or belts. Even though the rule excludes this type of application, I would still exercise caution. Waist ties should only be long enough to tie with tails that are not too long. The tail of a belt or waist tie should not extend below the hem of a dress or touch the floor - it could become a trip hazard. Also, be sure there are no knots or toggles on the ends.

BTW, there is an ASTM standard for drawstrings, ASTM F1816. It costs $42 to buy a copy of this rule.

*I'm not a lawyer. The statements above are my opinion and should not be construed as legal advice on how to comply with government regulations. If you are manufacturing children's products, you should seek legal advice, follow all applicable rules, and seek out a certified testing laboratory as required.

**The CPSC has updated their website since I last visited and they have made it even more difficult to find safety rules with their "robot regulator". You have to jump through a questionnaire to find the safety rule you are looking for. This is the direct link to the drawstring rule, however long it remains a valid link.

Tips for keeping a work journal as a designer

It wasn't long into my professional life that I started keeping a work journal. A technical designer or even a pattern maker will potentially have to be responsible to a lot of different people. Most apparel companies these days are small businesses and frequently family-owned small businesses. It is difficult to find a job as a technical designer/pattern maker with an established successful business, but I managed to do it two times. My client work is limited, but there are similar difficulties in keeping track of your work.

Keeping a work journal as an employee

As an employee I had to respond to all kinds of situations. A technical designer communicates with individuals at all levels of product development and manufacturing. This would include fabric sourcing, testing, fitting, pattern making, grading, cost analysis, returns, and even customer service. The boss could change from project to project. In my experience at family-owned businesses, various family members would be responsible for certain areas and would sometimes be in charge of a particular project. The shifting responsible could sometimes land on you if one department or individual disagrees with a particular decision.

In order to protect myself, I started keeping a work journal. It was pretty basic and bare bones. I usually used an inexpensive spiral bound notebook that I would pick up at the back to school sales. Though, you could go as fancy as you choose. These are the usual details I would record:

1. Date
2. Project/Style name
3. Description of work completed that day
4. Time spent on the project

But sometimes I would record requests for changes:

1. Date
2. Project/Style Name
3. Description of work completed and WHO REQUESTED IT
4. Time spent on the project

Sometimes the requested work was a change in a pattern. Sometimes I questioned the validity of the request. But, I wasn't the boss. I could advise or recommend something different, but ultimately it was not my final responsibility so long as I could prove who made the request and when.

Sometimes I had design meetings or phone meetings. I recorded:

1. Date
2. Topics discussed
3. Assignments and deadlines
4. The person who gave the assignment.

A typical entry would read:

January 5, 2018
Style: 1234
Completed first pattern draft. Double checked grade. Sent style to have first sample cut and sewn.

Style 2234
Boss requested this style have a 1 inch hem instead of 3/4 inch. Made adjustment and double checked grade. Sent style to have new sample sewn in intended fabric for style.

My work journal saved me a few times. I would have the company owner or project boss come back and ask about something. I could look back in my journal and tell them exactly what happened. There were a few times I would have multiple people tell me to do one thing and then completely reverse and do the opposite. Believe me, you will not regret keeping a work journal!

Keeping a journal for client work

My journal entries for client work is not much different. I would include, of course, the name of the client and a description of the project. Another important thing to keep track of is the time spent on the project. Keeping track of time will let you know if you are being fairly compensated and whether you need to make adjustments in billing. Eventually these notes would be moved to a file that would include any pictures, correspondence, and invoices.

1. Date
2. Client name
3. Project/Style Description
4. Work completed
5. Time spent
6. Any other relevant correspondence.

Experts and craftsmanship : who do you trust in the era of slick packaging and presentation?

The age of the Internet has fundamentally changed how we access information. It has changed the way we learn and share. In the sewing community we share projects, ideas, techniques. Some have even found ways to make money doing what they love.

There is a phrase I learned from someone, "You don't know what you don't know."

If you don't know what you don't know, how do you learn what you need to know? How do you even ask the right questions?

Perhaps I'm a bit thoughtful as I struggle to write my book on grading. How do I present a technical skill in an easy to understand, accessible way? The writing process is dragging on because I want to get the instructional information just right. In addition, I recently ran across a mommy blogger who is now teaching others how to grade patterns using patched together measurement charts* cribbed from various sources. I won't link to this particular person, but it gave me pause. Her past experience does not support her current endeavors, but she is perceived as an expert because of slick packaging and presentation. It's not that she can't gain skills and teach others, but where is the dividing line between what you don't know and where you know enough?

An expert is someone who has gained mastery, skills and experience of a particular subject. At what point does someone migrate from a beginner to an intermediate and then expert sewist or master pattern maker? I believe it is a journey of a lifetime. And for many, you only become an expert at one aspect because the overarching subject is too vast. In the industry you specialize, influenced by the first employment opportunity that guides your future.

More thoughts on this topic in the future....

*I've studied these charts and compared them to ASTM charts. Her charts contain proportion problems which may create fit issues.

A case study in paying for fabric waste

I recently had a customer bring me some fabric for some flannel blankets. She mentioned off hand that some of the fabric had not been cut very straight by the fabric store sales clerk. This is not terribly unusual - I see it all the time with my custom hemstitching customers. I've seen it with fabric that I have purchased. I don't blame the sales clerks entirely. The sales clerks have to handle (wrestle) the fabric on the bolts, try to straighten it out, and then use dull scissors to cut it. The entire set-up wastes time and gives a poor outcome nearly every time. Is it any wonder that the industry prefers fabric on rolls? This is one reason I always buy a bit more yardage.

This particular case was fairly egregious. My customer wanted to have 3 flannel blankets that measured about 36" x 45", so she bought 6 pieces of flannel in one yard lengths. Every piece was cut like the picture below, some were cut as much as 4 inches off.

If I were to take the conservative approach and say the fabrics were cut only 2 inches off, that would still leave the blankets 2 inches shorter than expected once I cut the fabric straight.

Doing a little math, 6 fabrics times 2 inches means that 12 inches of fabric is wasted. In other words, my customer paid for 1/3 of a yard of fabric that ended up in the trash. I was a bit annoyed considering the current retail prices for fabric. Flannel runs about $6.99 a yard at Joann's which calculates out to about $2.31 in the garbage. And this is the conservative estimate.

Perhaps its not a huge loss. But it's still money in the trash.

I'm not sure if there is a way to avoid this problem. Just buy extra if you need to be sure and have a certain length. Do you have any similar examples?

FAQ's for The Organized Fashion Designer

The response to The Organized Fashion Designer has been awesome over the last few days! Here are the answers to a few questions I've received.

1. I see there are several options, which version is right for me.

I wanted to give customers options that will hopefully fulfill their specific needs.

The print option is great if you prefer a hard copy and can photocopy off the forms as needed. The coil binding allows for easy flipping of the pages. The saddle stitch binding lays flat and won't snag on anything like the coil sometimes does. Both options are printed on high quality paper and materials.

The PDF ebook (at Lulu and Etsy) is available instantly and you can print out the forms as needed.

The PDF bundles that contain selected collections of forms are ideal if you are not sure you want the whole ebook. Just pick the bundle you need and you're good to go.

2. I've purchased the ebook, how do I receive my copy.

On both Etsy and Lulu, the PDF is an instant download. Both sites provide a link as soon as payment is received and both send you an email with download instructions.

Etsy download instructions

Lulu - go to your account and select the downloads tab.

If you have trouble receiving your files, you will need to contact either Etsy or Lulu for additional help. If all else fails, contact me and I'll see what I can do.

3. How can I read my ebook? Can I read it on my iPad/Android/Kindle Fire?

You can read your ebook on any device that contains an app that will open PDF files. On computers, you will need Adobe Reader or something similar. On tablet devices, visit your app store and search for a PDF reader. Keep in mind that you will probably want to print out the forms you need and not all tablet devices can do this easily. Also, the ebook may not be as easy to read on small tablet devices like Kindle Fires.

4. I'm a [fill in the blank], will this book help me?

I think this book can help lots of different people

Home sewist/hobbyist - If you are ready to take your sewing to the next level, you'll want to stay organized. Keep track of TNT pattern variations, create a swatch library, catalog your styles, create a measurement chart. Not all forms will apply, but many will. If you want to know how things are done in the industry, buy the whole book. Otherwise, one of the bundles may meet your needs.

Custom clothier - Keep track of your pattern pieces, catalog styles with style numbering and style sheets. Create a measurement and grading chart.

New design entrepreneur - Start your business off right by implementing processes that will prevent chaos and save you money. Look more professional by providing the information that many contractors require right off the bat. (I also recommend reading The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing).

Established design entrepreneur - If you have lost pattern pieces, needed to take inventory, or pulled together a haphazard tech pack, then you need this book. Use these forms to refine your processes and bring some order to the chaos.

5. I don't sew/produce apparel, but I do make [fill in the blank]. Will this book help me?

Most of the forms in this book can be used for just about any sewn product. This includes bags, stuffed toys, tents, wallets, hats, tablet slip cases, diapers, umbrellas, or whatever else you can think of.

6. Can I purchase this book on Amazon?

Yes. The book is available in print on Amazon.

A Warning on Labeling Bamboo Textiles

Bamboo fabric has long been considered a miracle green fabric. It is super soft, absorbent, biodegradable, and considered antimicrobial. It is true that bamboo is considered an eco friendly plant because it can be grown quickly without the use of chemicals. Many products have been produced from bamboo - from floors to textiles. Some of the eco friendly claims have come under scrutiny, especially bamboo textiles.

Bamboo textiles are produced by two methods. One can be considered sort of green and the other not. With the first method, bamboo stalks are crushed and broken down with enzymes and then combed out. The second utilizes harsh chemicals to break down the bamboo stalks into pulp which is extruded by spinnerets. This second method is the same process in which Rayon fabrics are manufactured.

You can bet that the majority of the bamboo fabrics on the market are manufactured by the second method. Because of this, the FTC has declared that bamboo fabrics must be labeled Rayon with the qualifier from bamboo. While this is a controversial position taken by the FTC, it is more accurate due to the actual processes being used. The FTC has clamped down on some companies claiming their bamboo textiles are "green". The charges include falsely advertising some of the more outlandish claims of being antimicrobial and biodegradable.

Anyway, be careful of how you label bamboo. The FTC has further guidance on how to deal with bamboo.

More aggressive intellectual property enforcement by Taggies and Gerber

Taggies

My most popular blog entries have to do with taggies. Taggies are those square blankets with ribbon loops around all edges. I have received a lot of comments asking what the latest is on the patent and enforcement. I can only repeat what other commenters have stated:

1. The Taggies people are continuing to enforce their patent.
2. The patent enforcement lawyers appear to be going after anyone who has any form of a ribbon loop on a blanket edge, whether it is one ribbon loop or several.
3. No one has taken up the task of challenging the patent.

If Etsy or Ebay receive notice from Taggie's lawyers that the product is a potential infringement, those companies will pull your listing. These companies have little resources to investigate the claims, so legitimate or not the listing will be pulled down. You will not be able to defend yourself. If you list an item in your own store or blog for sale, you will receive a letter directly.

To date, it would appear there is plenty of evidence that the patent can be challenged. Commenters claim they had these style of blankets as children or that they have bought a current home sewing pattern with this style. Patterns and instructions abound on the net as do product listings in various online stores. The Taggies people were the first to obtain a patent and therefore believe they own it despite the evidence that the idea has been around for decades. This only illustrates the problem with the current patent protection system. The system is just complex enough that ordinary people have no idea what patents are being sought and if they should be challenged. The patent bureaucrats and lawyers don't understand the manufacturing processes and how common a folded ribbon loop in a seam is. Who has the time and money to fix the problem? Taggies is expanding into Europe and South America, so despite calls for a boycott the company appears to be growing.

Gerber and the word Onesie

Another aggressive brand enforcement problem has to do with the word onesie. Onesie is a registered trademark brand owned by Gerber. You cannot use that particular word to describe an infant bodysuit or unitard unless it is an actual Gerber branded Onesie. Various acquaintances of mine and online shop owners are receiving threatening letters about their use of this word in their product descriptions. Gerber appears to be ramping up their enforcement of their trademark.

These companies have not technically done anything illegal. They have the right to apply for patent and trademark protection. That protection is only worth as much as they are willing to enforce it. So, IMO, let them waste spend their money on it. The one thing these companies are doing is creating ill will among potential customers and retailers. Customers and retailers have long memories and will think twice about buying or indirectly promoting those products to friends. They may be doing more damage than they know.

Baby and children's apparel products seem to have more patent and trademark protection than other sewn product categories. There are bibs, hand covers, sensory objects, diapers, and so much more that have patent protection. I haven't quite figured out why.

Etsy, Ebay Strike, and Lead Issues Again

I have heard no news about the Ebay strike and whether or not it made a difference. My gut feeling is more people left Ebay than previous "strikes" but I doubt it made much of a dent. The walkout will have to be far more drastic. Besides that, there were some Ebay boutique designers who signed on to the strike and still had listings run during the week. Yeah, I checked. Shame on those designers who played both sides. I don't really care if those designers continue with Ebay or not. It just speaks volumes about their integrity. You can't say one thing and do another.

In the mean time I have been browsing Etsy sellers - sellers of child related products. I have been looking at what these sellers are making and it leaves me a little concerned. I think it is great so many people are finding an outlet for their "handmade" products. About 90% of the sellers are just fine, but it is that other 10% that are a cause for concern.

I had thought about profiling Etsy designers who appear to have awesome products, but then my blog would quickly turn into an advertising medium. I am still mulling it over, so I may still do it. Etsy designers should be aware, though, that I will offer a no-holds barred critique of their product - that is if I do it. How can I offer a fair critique without the product in hand?

I could openly critique Etsy sellers that are selling products that concern me. I can imagine the backlash if I focus on any specific seller. Etsy users seem to be a loyal bunch. Besides, I don't want to create a negative aura with my blog or my participation with Etsy.

Anyway, those have been my thoughts over the last week. What are the products that cause me concern?

1. Taggies inspired products. There are many copy-cat products on Etsy and I don't think the sellers realize the "idea" has been patented. I don't agree with the patent, but its there and it can't be ignored.

2. Absence of care/content tags. These tags are required not only on clothing but other textile products. I have seen burp cloths, blankets, bibs, and wash cloths being sold without legally required tags. Those items must have tags if sold in the US and probably elsewhere.

3. Drawstrings, Ties, and Dangles. I have seen "boutique" clothing being sold with ties in the neck and waistline areas and long trims that hang loose. Ties and ribbon dangles don't technically qualify as drawstrings but there have been recalls on related products. Ties that are too long can be a trip hazard. Further, I have seen a lot of dresses and pants that are too long, at least on the models. Such clothing is also a trip hazard.

Anyway those are the top 3 areas of concern.

Finally, California's Lead in Jewelry policy goes into effect March 1st. Check the link at the top of the page. California issued a report of stores that have sold lead-laden jewelry. There are heavy fines involved and they are inspecting stores of every size.

Design a clothing line with a plan

If you watch Project Runway or believe any of the stereotypical Fashion Designer drivel, you may think a line is designed by pure inspiration. A designer goes to a museum and is inspired by a piece of artwork and can magically create 5-7 pieces that all work together. Or perhaps a designer flips through some swatches and tosses some to an assistant to make samples out of. This kind of thinking is silly nonsense and will lead to disaster.

It is true that a designer can be inspired by a piece of artwork, a fabric print, color, etc. But unless one designs with a plan, or end goal, it will only be an exercise in design for design's sake. A design plan should follow some basic steps and answer basic questions:

1. Review the past line.
1. What sold best/worst?
2. Customer comments
3. Returns
2. Review past goals and set new ones.
1. Did you meet sales expectations?
2. What are my sales goals for this season?
3. How is my budget?
4. Set design budget for the next season.
3. Shop the market between seasons.
1. What are my competitors selling?
2. What are their price points?
3. Do I hang with them?

You'll notice that none of these questions have anything to do with design. They are ordinary business questions and it is good practice to review them at the end/start of a new season. Finally, I sit down and actually "design" my line.

1. Shop for fabric/trims. (this is where I find my "inspiration".
1. Does the fabric express the brand?
2. Does it fit within the price point for raw materials?
2. Determine number of styles/pieces.
1. Can any styles be carried over in new color/print?

I then sketch, come up with words to describe the group and generally get lost in the design process for about 2 days. I sample my styles directly in the real fabric. I don't do muslins or toiles - those are only to work out pattern problems. The sample making process can take a few weeks and gets a little nitty gritty, but at the end of the process you will have designed you line.

Who puts whom in a corner?

You have probably seen them. Those cute infant-toddler shirts with quotes, phrases, and images inspired by popular culture. You can buy those shirts everywhere from CafePress, on-line retailers, shopping malls, and even street corners. I am sure no one ever thought some of those phrases would be trademarked. If you follow the link, you will find that Lions Gate is going after people who print a quote from their movie on t-shirts. The defendants are producers of baby t-shirts and products.

The case will be difficult to prove. The phrase that can't be said has been "borrowed" by various companies since the movie came out 20 years ago. Lions Gate sells approved merchandise with the phrase that can't be said. But until now, they have failed to adequately defend their own trademark. After 20 years, is the trademark valid? I did a quick search for it at the USPTO and couldn't find it. Was it ever registered?

If Lions Gate wins this case, can you imagine other movie studios going after people for similar things? If you can't say the phrase that can't be said, how many other phrases can't be uttered? Maybe CafePress should be nervous - so many of their baby products are inspired by movie utterances.

Ethics aside, this case illustrates a danger to the freedom of speech. Who knew a common phrase could be trademarked? Should we be concerned when we use the word Apple or ask where the beef is?

Let's take another tack. The movie studios are benefiting from essentially free advertising. Think about all of those babies wearing shirts with the phrase that can't be said. Their parents will remember that movie and perhaps want to see it again through video purchases or rentals. Perhaps movie studios have a right to protect their intellectual property, but at what cost? Are they willing to risk losing free advertising and potential customers? Apparently they are.

The State of the Childrenswear Industry in 2007

The information for this blog entry comes from one of those fantastic business databases available from my local library. One of the biggest hurdles in my business plan was trying to describe the current state of the industry. From experience, I could say things were in decline. And really, if I included that in my business plan, it wouldn't give a financial institution much incentive to loan me money. Who would invest in a business where the entire industry is in decline? Now I can write something with a bit more substance and support that things aren't so bad (not great, but not dismal either). I am not looking to secure financing through the SBA, but some of you might and this resource is something that could help.

The database where this information is found is called the Business & Company Resource Center powered by InfoTrac (owned by Thomson-Gale). Be sure to do an industry search. In the description area enter the word children. Several descriptions should pull up for children's and women's clothing industries. I selected #2361 - Girls', Children's and Infants' Dresses, Blouses and Shirts description.

The article has too much info to repeat here. Here are some tidbits that may interest you:

As was true for much of the U.S. apparel industry, these establishments tended to be small, family-run businesses, and they faced stiff competition from low-cost imports.
As of 2005, Wal-Mart carried a 12 percent share of the apparel industry, though it aimed for 30 percent. With more than 4,000 stores offering a wide variety of apparel falling within this industry, Wal-Mart's annual clothing and footwear budget alone was $35 billion.
Also contributing to the industry's decline in the United States was the reliance of manufacturers on offshore assembly of pieces cut in the United States, which actually increased during the mid-2000s.
By using computers to track inventory and sales, as well as consumers' responses to particular items, manufacturers gained the ability to respond quickly to market demand. This allowed them to get a jump on foreign producers who were often half a world away, and minimize their vulnerability to imports.

One interesting observation comes from the first paragraph. Most apparel businesses are small, family-run businesses. This is exactly how most childrenswear companies start! It is a good place to be. Later, I may pull up information on the industry leaders: OshKosh, Carter's, and Gerber. Very interesting.

When you read things like this, it makes you wonder why anyone would enter the childrenswear business in the first place. And yet, I discover new businesses starting up all of the time (they must not have read these reports). The truth is, there is room and growth in this business, and you can do it! These types of reports look at the big guys with the big numbers. The biggest thing to remember is that you should not compete with Wal-Mart or the industry leaders on price or even look. The specialty market is always looking for something new and exciting.

Other tidbits included in the article: News (from the last few years), company profiles and industry rankings.

Source Citation: "Girls', Children's, and Infants' Dresses, Blouses, and Shirts." Encyclopedia of American Industries. Online Edition. Thomson Gale, 2006. Reproduced in Business and Company Resource Center. Farmington Hills, Mich.:Gale Group. 2007. http://galenet.galegroup.com/servlet/BCRC

A CEO's experience is important - the Difficulty at The Gap in 2007

I love BabyGap. I think the designers do an incredible job. The product looks fresh and cute, and it is priced reasonably. I read a very interesting article in February's 26th Business Week, Paul Pressler's Fall From The Gap. My first reaction was here is someone who didn't read Kathleen's book. Reading through the article (and if you can believe everything in it), one can see he clearly didn't understand the fashion business. It would be easy to put all of the blame on him because he was the new guy. The truth is that GAP has corporate culture issues not unlike any large company.

I met an assistant designer for GAP years ago. The impression she left was not very favorable. At least I decided I would not work there, if given the choice. It was a pretty cut throat environment with people climbing the corporate ladder rather quickly because of constant turn over. She left the impression that she could be become one of the head designers within a few years. Success like that does not happen without a lot of back-stabbing.

So I don't blame him entirely for his failure to turn things around at GAP. It would not have been an easy task to walk into a difficult corporate culture, with little fashion experience. Some of his decisions illustrated in the article were indeed poor, others just missed the mark. I think design entrepeneurs can learn from him. Here are my thoughts on some of his decisions:

1. Combining fabric purchases. He made the mistake of combining denim sales for all four divisions of GAP, including Old Navy, Banana Republic, and Forthe and Towne. The result was that all divisions ended up with exactly the same denim to use in all of their denim styles. There is no point in having four divisions if there is not some kind of difference in the clothing. Why buy denim jeans at Banana Republic when you can get the same thing at Old Navy for less money?

The idea is not without merit. I have had corporate execs suggest the same in the past. The goal is to negotiate a lower price for the raw materials by buying in bulk. A small company can combine fabric purchases to also negotiate a lower price. The point is that you shouldn't buy only one fabric, or one style of fabric. Large fabric mills will push you in that direction because it is less expensive for them to run 10,000 yards of the same denim fabric. But what are you going to do with 10,000 yards of denim?

A small business is more likely going to need, say, 300 yards of denim, which will cost more than what GAP will pay. But you can still negotiate a lower price. Sometimes, your order can be combined with an order from another company. Both companies could benefit with a lower price. Perhaps, you could up your order to 500 yards and you can use the extra fabric the next season or in another style. If the fabric company has more than one type of fabric, perhaps you could combine your fabric needs with one company. A long term relationship between supplier and buyer can lead to lower prices.

A small business should never buy ALL of their fabric from one source. You never know what could happen, so make sure to have back-up choices.

2. Outsourcing development. Pressler required his designers to create their patterns in the states and then have the samples made in Asia. Sample making in Asia is cheaper. The problem is time. It takes time to mail samples and patterns back and forth. Even with internet technology, there are many barriers to the ease of communication. Language differences is the biggest. This kind of product development can take as long as 3-4 months for final product approval, especially on a new style. Pressler would not give approval for expedited shipping.

You can outsource product development. It should be something to consider, especially for childrenswear designers. A lot of children's clothing is made overseas - just shop the competition and you will see very few USA labels. Because competition is so stiff, you can save a lot in labor by moving overseas.

If you decide to take this road, give yourself plenty of time. Time to find a reputable manufacturer. Time to find a manufacturer that will run smaller lots (small is a relative term, but expect 500-1000 pc runs to be termed "small"). Time to teach the manufacturer and their technical people your product and quality standards. You can do a lot of things long distance. One Chinese manufacturer preferred that designers actually come and spend a few weeks in China working directly with a patternmaker to develop samples. Not only was it faster, but it ensured the designer got what they wanted.

3. Market Research. Pressler tried to use traditional market research tactics to predict the next big trend. The problem is that customers look to their favorite brands to lead on the next trend. This means that designers predict or envision what should happen next. Fashion companies rely on their designers for this.

Market research is important for building a better brand and better product. Designers do need to listen to their customers. I have seen a few online fashion companies add product reviews and customer comments on their sites. This type of system can help a company improve problems faster. Inspect returns for product defects. Learning from the past can help you move forward.


What will happen at the GAP next? They are now on the hunt for a CEO with apparel experience. I don't see the death of GAP, but I do see some serious growing problems.

A chair from the factory floor

This is the chair I sit on nearly every day and it has a story. It's not fancy, in fact it is rather ugly and uncomfortable. It has a few paint splatters from being used to repaint rooms in my house. The seat and paint is worn. What makes this chair so special?

This chair came from a local sewing factory as it was closing its manufacturing operations - the factory where I was first employed out of college. I don't know what possessed me to buy it other than it was cheap. It was after I brought it home that I noticed the date on the bottom of the chair. The same year I was born. A foreshadowing of destiny? More like life coming around full circle.

This particular factory produced little girls' dresses. My mother bought dresses from their factory outlet store - and yes I wore them. No one ever thought that I would be working in that same factory.

Sitting on this chair every day reminds me of where I came from, where I got my start. It is also give me tremendous sympathy for the poor women (literally) who sat on this chair and sewed little girls dresses day after day. Dresses that literally thousands have worn. All in an effort to earn meager wages. Even though the chair is uncomfortable, it keeps me from getting too cocky.

Care/Content Label Example in Two Languages

Writing a care/content label can be difficult. There are government regulations, department store requirements, company budgets, and a lot of info to fit in a small space. Every company comes up with creative solutions. If I get stuck on how to write a care label, I go shopping (or at least my closet)! I have seen a lot of good examples and poor examples of how to write a care/content label. I may blog about care/content labels in the real world on a semi-regular basis. New designers need a better understanding of labeling requirements. Since my blog focuses on children's clothing, I will try to pull labels from children's clothing. Children's clothing presents some difficulty when creating a care/content label.

In my first example, I pulled a label from a cotton t-shirt with a screen print, sized 6-9M. I smudged out the RN# because I want to keep the manufacturer anonymous. I apologize for the pictures being a bit fuzzy - labels are harder to scan than I thought. I will do better on my next blog. The front of the label is on the left, the back is on the right.

The first thing that caught my eye about this label is the colors. The label is a folded woven, satin label with orange lettering. This kind of label is a bit more expensive than a regular printed label. I wouldn't have expected this style in an ordinary t-shirt, especially one that came from a major discounter. The label is in English and Spanish. This is a typical requirement for department and chain stores.

I had previously blogged about keeping track of production by recording some kind of information on the label. This label has a SKU # on the bottom of the reverse side of the label. It is a little unusual to see a SKU number, but it does occur. 

The only thing I would change is the repetition of the size information. The English/Spanish could be combined on one line: "Size/Talla 6/9M. It is also preferred to keep the font size for all of the characters and numbers on the tag the same size.

Hidden traps in manufacturing childrens clothing in China

Except for specialty boutique items, most children's clothing sold in the US is manufactured in either China, Vietnam or some other Asian country. If you are a children's clothing designer, you may be faced with competing product from these countries. Competition has become increasingly fierce as labor and raw material prices are rock bottom in China. You may be tempted to send your manufacturing to China in order to compete.

I am not against manufacturing in China. In fact, depending on your product, it may be the best option. The Chinese have become more skilled over time and can produce superior product. They can incorporate embroidery very cheaply, or produce complex pieces that many US factories balk at. If you are considering a move to China, you may want to read an article from Business Week (Nov 27, 2006), titled, Secrets, Lies, And Sweatshops and a book titled China, Inc.: How the Rise of the Next Superpower Challenges America and the World, by Ted Fishman.

Both this article and book detail the complexities of manufacturing in China. Clothing manufacturers will take advantage of you if you do not have enough money to protect your interests. They will bend over backwards to land the large volume accounts, like Wal-Mart, but not necessarily a small company. In other words, a small company can manufacture in China, but it must be done with a great deal of care and oversight. A small company can find factories willing to work with them, the difficulty is in finding an honest one. The same can be said about some of the remaining US and Mexico factories.

The greatest difficulty about manufacturing in China is quality control and worker efficiency. A Chinese factory would rather hire 5 employees for one job instead of buying a piece of equipment to perform that one operation. The owners are thinking only of short term solutions to get them through their current contract. Eventually those 5 workers will have to be replaced with a more efficient piece of equipment in order to compete effectively. I can see a time when Chinese workers will start to demand better working conditions and pay - it is only a matter of time.

Quality control is a huge issue. As I stated above, Chinese factories can produce superior product. Time constraints, the value of the contract, and the motivation of the factory all play a part. As the Business Week article suggests, inspecting the factories is the only current solution. And yet, parts of your product may be manufactured somewhere else and you will only see a part of it. If you do not have a person inspecting the product during manufacturing or prior to shipping, you may be stuck with sub-standard merchandise. Most, if not all, Chinese manufacturers require payment in full before shipping product. At least in this respect, the Chinese are different from their American counterparts.

I am not an expert in manufacturing in China. I have only experienced a small portion - creating technical specs to send to Chinese factories. And yet, this is an important trend for children's clothing designers to know about. I have seen some very good product come out of China. It can be done. Just be very careful and keep a close eye on your factory, sourcing agents, and product quality.

Inkscape for Technical Fashion Drawing

I discovered a few days ago a new software product called Inkscape. Actually, I have fallen in love with it. Inkscape is an open-source vector drawing program. I have used many drawing programs over the years and this programs fits my needs almost perfectly.

In college and later in employment I used a little program called Micrografix. I still love Micrografix. It was a simple vector drawing program and it was incredibly easy to use. It allowed you to scan a drawing and trace around it. You could select points (or nodes) on a line and change them from curves to sharp points. As a technical designer, I used this program to create all of my technical drawings. I had a library of component parts - sleeves, pant legs, collars. I could mix and match my pieces very quickly. The best part was it was incredibly affordable.

As the internet and technology revolution has sped up, Micrografix was left in the dust. It was acquired by Corel and pretty much abandoned. CorelDraw is very similar, but far more complex. I am sure it is a great program - I currently use PaintshopPro and love it. My mistake was buying CorelDraw Essentials. It is a horrible program. It has similar features as Micrografix, but only the "essential" functions from the better program CorelDraw. Editing points and lines are more difficult. Plus, the program is unstable -- it has crashed on me more times than I can count.

I have used Adobe Illustrator. I like Illustrator, but the program is big. It hogs a lot of memory and takes forever to load. Even though I had Illustrator available at work, I used Micrografix because I could have it open and switch between programs very quickly. Illustrator is loaded with many tools and options that are not necessary for simple line drawings. Plus the $1000 price tag is just too much.

Enter the open source movement. I have been waiting for a better option to come along and Inkscape fits the bill. It is very similar to Micrografix in what it can do. Quick node editing and great free-hand drawing tools. The entire program is a mere 17 megs. It loads quickly and even better, it is free. There are a few things that do bother me about the program. Some of the right-click menus don't make sense. Plus there are not many translations. In other words, you can save your drawing in only a few formats - svg, dxf, and eps. Still, many other drawing programs support those formats. The program has also crashed on me a few times.

Despite the few problems and annoyances, I still like this program. Because the program is open source, it can only get better (and it won't cost a fortune to upgrade!). Corel and Adobe should be very nervous.

Product Development Manager, hmmm....

Every now and then, I will peruse help wanted ads that may be of interest to me. I will look in places that I may be interested in living someday - say tropical islands. When I read this ad, I am sorry, but I had to laugh. I know what kind of salary I would ask for this particular position. I would consider this position a Technical Design position, which should be connected to the Design department. This would be a senior level position. Instead, look at the department it is assigned and to whom you would report.

After you read the job requirements, next look at the required qualifications. Wow, is all I can say. They are willing to consider someone with 3-5 years of merchandising experience (something unrelated to most of the job functions described)! I have shopped in the retail store this company owns and I know how many styles they produce each season. They have a men's, women's, and children's clothing line, in various sizes and fabrications that changes seasonally. What they really need is someone with 10-20 years of senior level Technical Design experience. The patternmaking and grading functions would be a full-time job all by itself. If you are truly interested in this job, you can read the entire job description at Expo, but be prepared to say goodbye to your life.

I really don't blame the company for this ad. I am sure this was written by a human resource person who doesn't really have a clue what is involved here.

Position: Product Development Manager
Department: Merchandising
Reports To: Senior Product Development Manager

SUMMARY
Responsible for style development and all components of spec packet, which include style, fit, trim, labels, hangtags, care instructions, care label, packing, wash test, and buyer samples. Works directly with production factories and vendors to assure all information is complete and consistent.

ESSENTIAL DUTIES & RESPONSIBILITIES include the following, other duties may be assigned.

COMPANY PRINCIPLES

As an employee of Company X, promotes the Vision and Mission of the Company. Performs the position duties and responsibilities in accordance with the Company’s Statement of Values.

1. Works with Art Team & Buyers to develop and design seasonal style line.
2. Analyzes samples and prototypes.
3. Sources fabrics and trims.
4. Works with factories to cost garments and arrive at best possible value through garment construction and fabric utilization.
5. Responsible for all style specification packages for internal & vendor use. Assures information is complete and consistent.
6. Works directly with factory on all components of spec packet. I.e. style, fit, and trim, labels, hangtags, care instructions, care label, packing, and buyer samples.
7. Finalize fit corrections on design fit model.
8. Grade garments on computer to be produced according to seasonal style line.
9. Responsible for all pattern making & revisions.
10. Responsible for the creation of all line sketches.
11. Responsible for numbering/tracking system for styles, fabrications and prints.
12. Responsible for all components of PDM computer software.
13. Assists in presentations of assortment plans.
14. All other related duties assigned by manager.

Requirements:
QUALIFICATIONS
To perform this position successfully, an individual must be able to perform each essential duty satisfactorily. The requirements listed below are representative of the knowledge, skill, and/or ability required. Reasonable accommodations may be made to enable individuals with disabilities to perform the essential functions.

EDUCATION and/or EXPERIENCE
§ Bachelor’s degree (BA) or equivalent.
§ 3-5 years of apparel product development or merchandising experience preferred
§ Textile Art, fashion design or merchandising education preferred
§ Knowledge and understanding of the relation between fabric, art, print, fabrication and style
§ Detail oriented
§ Strong analytical and problem solving skills
§ Experience with Microsoft Word, Microsoft Excel, Adobe Photo Shop.

FAQ: Can I make a profit in the fashion business?

I received some great questions in my mail box the other day from a new childrenswear designer:

Is getting into children's wear a big business? I mean, can one be profitable? I see a lot of my friends who are women's wear designers just breakeven after all that hard work. I enjoy designing for kids and feel that it might be less competitive that women's wear so therefore one may be able to be a tad more profitable in this area?

Let me tackle these one at a time.

Is getting into children's wear a big business?
Yes. I won't take the time to find the numbers, but there is a lot of money to be made in children's apparel. Well known designers may start with women's wear, but they end with children's. It may seem they add a children's line as an afterthought, but that is also where the largest profit margins are. With a well established women's brand, it makes sense to extend it into children. Labor and material costs are less, but the prices can be as high as women's. Hollywood stars and well-meaning, new mothers launch their own children's line when they start a family. Then let's throw in cheap imports by the major chain stores. How is one supposed to compete with that!? If you don't fall into any of these categories, it can seem overwhelming! There is a lot of competition in children's clothing.

I mean, can one be profitable?

With all of the competition that already exists, this is a good question to ask. And it all depends on how you run your business. Any business is difficult. If you start a business, you are the one that bears the responsibility to make it successful. Often the hours you work will be longer and harder than a regular job. You will take your work home at night, lose your weekends, and may never really take a vacation. You do all of this in the hopes of making a profit (and maybe because you love it too).

The simple definition of a profit is to spend less money than you make. Even with the complexity of the fashion business, this simple definition remains true. At the end of the day (week, month), you must sit down and analyze your income vs. expenditures. If you are spending more than you make, you will not make a profit.

The real question here is "How do I make a profit?" This is a slightly more complex answer. There are a lot of variables, even in the childrenswear category. I have read business books and talked with many people in the fashion business. Here are some of the guidelines I have learned that I now use for my business:

1. Spend less than you make.

2. Avoid debt. Most small businesses will take out a small business loan or use savings to get started. Determine a plan to pay off your loans as soon as possible. A debt payment is less money earned in income.

3. Put a little into business savings and make a small charitable donation to your favorite organization (It will make you feel good, is tax deductible, and it just might help somebody). You can use your business savings for future equipment, expansion, and to cover lean times.

4. Try to deal on a cash basis as much as possible. If you are just starting out, you are not in a position to extend credit to anyone, nor to overextend your own credit situation. If you make a sale, try to get money as soon as delivery is made.

5. Plan carefully. More mistakes are made by not planning carefully. Kathleen Fasanella's book, The Entrepreneur's Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing explains how to manufacture your designs. If you follow each step of the process outlined in her book, then you will more likely succeed.

6. Keep growth under control. You may have received a $20,000 order, but unless you can fill it, don't do it. It may seem ludicrous to turn down such a large order. But if you take the order and don't fill, you can do a lot damage and may put yourself out of business. When you are ready to start taking such large orders, have everything in place beforehand.

7. Set goals. Why are you in business? Where do you want to go? These can be large and lofty or small and mundane. One of my goals is to be able to pay my bills and earn X amount of income. Another goal of mine is to provide X number of jobs to the local economy. Try to set goals that are realistic for the short term, but keep in mind the big ones.

8. Stay focused. When starting out, it is best to focus on one category - like girl's dresses or boys outfits. Later, you can expand into related categories.

9. Ask for help (or hire it). It is easy to get overwhelmed. But believe it or not, there are many out there willing to help.

10. Enjoy what you do! If you love what you do, you are more likely to stick with it.

I see a lot of my friends who are women's wear designers just breakeven after all that hard work. I enjoy designing for kids and feel that it might be less competitive than women's wear so therefore one may be able to be a tad more profitable in this area?

The first few financial years of your business will either break even or run in the red. It is a simple fact of life. But if it has been longer than that, then I have to wonder if these designers are following any of the guidelines above. And really, it doesn't matter what you design, you must pay attention to the business end. At the end of the day, the numbers must make sense. Any category has an equal chance of success or failure. If you want to design kid's clothes, then go for it!

I hope these guidelines are helpful. They have proven to work for me. You can succeed in fashion and as Tim Gunn says, "Carry on!".