Adapting a block pattern into something else pt. 6 : Sewing a fitting sample

You can easily spend a lot of time creating a pattern on paper but at some point, it needs to be sewn up. It is while sewing that you'll see your design take shape and lead you to make modifications as needed. I changed the design a bit by eliminating the folded neckband. The neckband is instead a single layer that is allowed to roll. I made this change because the fabric is pretty light and it would need some kind of stabilizer, which I didn't have. The cardigan is very comfortable and fits pretty well. Even so, I added just a bit too much wearing ease. So I need to reduce some of the body width. The upper back is a tad long and the sleeves need shortened.

It's pretty hard to get everything just right on the first attempt. I've done enough girls dress patterns that I don't usually have to do many iterations. Adult clothing takes a bit more tries because I lack experience with it. Industry pattern makers and sample makers will sometimes make many iterations of a design before they get it just right. This is a slightly different approach than home sewists might take. But once the pattern is nailed down, I won't have to worry about it anymore. It will be much easier to create variations on this style too.

Before I could tackle the pattern adjustments, I needed to stop and get organized. I assigned a style number, created a style and cutting spec sheet, and assigned pattern numbers. I explain how to do this along with providing printable blank forms to fill out in my book. If you prefer keeping a digital record, you can use the examples in the book to create your own spreadsheets. In many ways I still prefer paper and pencil. It forces your brain to think differently - perhaps more analytically. I have used both paper and pencil and spreadsheets. There are advantages to both.

Organizing my workspace : Storing patterns cut in tag board

Well over a year ago I had made the final adjustments to my t-shirt pattern. I usually draft my first patterns on medical examination paper. It is a less expensive paper to draft on, but more durable than regular tissue paper. Once I feel the pattern is perfected (or good enough for now), I transfer the tissue paper pattern to tagboard. It took me well over a year to transfer my pattern to tagboard. Really, it is amazing I managed to keep all the pieces together without losing any. The pieces floated between my craft table and the floor in all that time! Now I can use these pattern pieces for some other design ideas that have been floating around in my head. I store the tissue paper patterns in 6" x 9" envelopes for future reference. Both the tagboard pieces and the envelope are labeled with the style number, size, piece name, seam allowances, and cut quantity.

Pieces cut in tag board are put on pattern hooks and then on racks. I prefer punching a hole in the pattern with a smaller hole punch so I can use book rings. The book rings are used to hang all the pieces of a style together but make it easier to remove one piece from the collection. The pattern hooks can be looped around the book ring and then hung on a rack.

*There are different work flows for pattern making. This is mine. Some professional pattern makers do all of their pattern making directly on oak tag and some are CAD only. Also, I do things a little differently in my home studio versus work. For example, the t-shirt pattern pieces are cutout in half because I place the piece on the fold at home. This would not happen in a factory. Generally, a production ready pattern would be the full piece (left and right sides) and not placed on a fold. It's not always so simple though. The pattern pieces are created to meet the specs of the fabric and production facility so variations may exist.

Organizing my workspace : Creating a fabric swatch library

It's time to start organizing my fabric stash - and believe me this is only one part of a larger whole! Any factory or design space needs to have some kind of procedure and policy in place for how to handle new fabrics. Swatches should be immediately taken and relevant information recorded. If this isn't done, it becomes incredibly difficult to hunt down the information later, especially when you need to do a cost analysis. Even when sewing at home, it helps to know the basics and it makes it easier to grab a swatch when heading to the store for additional supplies. I've learned my lesson after letting my stash of fabrics pile up.

Here are the tools and supplies you might need if you are following along.

Tools

• Rotary cutter
• Cutting mat
• Ruler
• Pen
• Stapler
• Book rings
• Fabric headers*
• Bone folder (optional)
• Hole punch

I'm using the fabric headers found in the book (or ordered separately on Etsy). They can be printed on card stock or bristol board.

Book rings are incredible organizing tools for the factory or craft room. There are two sizes I like - 1" and 2". Any size you prefer will work just fine.


Acco Metal Book Rings, 1in Diameter, 100 Rings Per Box (ACC72202)
Acco Metal Book Rings, 2in Diameter, 50 Rings Per Box (ACC72205)

How to

1. Cut strips of fabric. For the small headers 2" x 7" (or however long you prefer). The larger header is about 7.5" wide and however long.
2. Fold the headers in half and staple in the corners
3. Store and display as you wish. You can use the book rings to sort your fabric swatches by color, style, or type.

Here is the beginning of my swatches. I'm waiting on my order of book rings to come so that I can organize them better.

6 tips for organizing a design workspace

How does one start organizing a space. I've broken it down into some pretty common sense steps.

1. Just start. If the area is too overwhelming, then pick just one spot.
2. Clear the area. Try to put things away that belong in other rooms. Move things to a temporary new home, if necessary. The organizing tv shows always clear an entire room out, but don't feel like you have to do this.
3. Sort your stuff into keep, charity, and trash/recycle.
4. Study your available space and arrange furniture in an attractive and efficient workspace. Make a list of organizing needs like shelves, baskets, labels, etc.
5. Bring things back in. Rework your plan as needed to accommodate your things.
6. Maintain. Once you've set up your space, you'll need to keep it up. Put things away when done, etc. It's easy to backslide back into a chaotic space if some do diligence isn't implemented.

As you organize your workspace, try to create zones. For example, I have a cutting table, sewing machines, ironing board, and storage. Each of these areas have certain tools and supplies that need to be readily available. This may mean having multiple pairs of scissors, pin cushions, etc so that you aren't having to walk across the room multiple times.

In my case, I've picked one hot spot in my work space and that is my cutting table. I've put stuff away and cleared most of it off. The remaining items are the things that always float around the table while I'm trying to work (not ideal when trying to cut something out!)

So, I'm looking for wall baskets to hang near my work table to contain all these things. I found a few ideas on Amazon and Ikea, but I'll check out my local hardware stores first. I know that I'll probably need at least three wall baskets, so might as well stock up. Anyway, here are a few ideas from Amazon (click on the images to go to Amazon).

I like the looks of these baskets.

This one would be easy to mount to a wall.

There is probably a simple way to mount this style too.

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Find more ideas in The Organized Fashion Designer.

FAQ's for The Organized Fashion Designer

The response to The Organized Fashion Designer has been awesome over the last few days! Here are the answers to a few questions I've received.

1. I see there are several options, which version is right for me.

I wanted to give customers options that will hopefully fulfill their specific needs.

The print option is great if you prefer a hard copy and can photocopy off the forms as needed. The coil binding allows for easy flipping of the pages. The saddle stitch binding lays flat and won't snag on anything like the coil sometimes does. Both options are printed on high quality paper and materials.

The PDF ebook (at Lulu and Etsy) is available instantly and you can print out the forms as needed.

The PDF bundles that contain selected collections of forms are ideal if you are not sure you want the whole ebook. Just pick the bundle you need and you're good to go.

2. I've purchased the ebook, how do I receive my copy.

On both Etsy and Lulu, the PDF is an instant download. Both sites provide a link as soon as payment is received and both send you an email with download instructions.

Etsy download instructions

Lulu - go to your account and select the downloads tab.

If you have trouble receiving your files, you will need to contact either Etsy or Lulu for additional help. If all else fails, contact me and I'll see what I can do.

3. How can I read my ebook? Can I read it on my iPad/Android/Kindle Fire?

You can read your ebook on any device that contains an app that will open PDF files. On computers, you will need Adobe Reader or something similar. On tablet devices, visit your app store and search for a PDF reader. Keep in mind that you will probably want to print out the forms you need and not all tablet devices can do this easily. Also, the ebook may not be as easy to read on small tablet devices like Kindle Fires.

4. I'm a [fill in the blank], will this book help me?

I think this book can help lots of different people

Home sewist/hobbyist - If you are ready to take your sewing to the next level, you'll want to stay organized. Keep track of TNT pattern variations, create a swatch library, catalog your styles, create a measurement chart. Not all forms will apply, but many will. If you want to know how things are done in the industry, buy the whole book. Otherwise, one of the bundles may meet your needs.

Custom clothier - Keep track of your pattern pieces, catalog styles with style numbering and style sheets. Create a measurement and grading chart.

New design entrepreneur - Start your business off right by implementing processes that will prevent chaos and save you money. Look more professional by providing the information that many contractors require right off the bat. (I also recommend reading The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing).

Established design entrepreneur - If you have lost pattern pieces, needed to take inventory, or pulled together a haphazard tech pack, then you need this book. Use these forms to refine your processes and bring some order to the chaos.

5. I don't sew/produce apparel, but I do make [fill in the blank]. Will this book help me?

Most of the forms in this book can be used for just about any sewn product. This includes bags, stuffed toys, tents, wallets, hats, tablet slip cases, diapers, umbrellas, or whatever else you can think of.

6. Can I purchase this book on Amazon?

Yes. The book is available in print on Amazon.

The Organized Fashion Designer

I'm pleased to announce that my book, The Organized Fashion Designer, is now available for purchase. This book is a collection of guides and forms that I have developed and used while working in the fashion industry. Every fashion or sewn product business exists in some state of chaos. Out of desperation, I began to create various forms and organizing systems to keep track of all of the information needed to manufacture products. This led to simple tech packs that could be pulled together in an instant. I kept track of information using expensive database management software and simple paper and pencil forms. I have even used these forms with personal projects to keep my design space organized. Now I'm sharing these forms with new designers and home hobbyists in the hope that chaos can be organized.

The book includes blank forms and how to:

• Create a simple tech pack
• Develop grade rules
• Track every major step of your product development
• figure out how much your product costs to produce
• List sewing instructions
• Create a style number system
• Helpful industry resources

And more!

The book is available in three formats.

Spiral Bound

Saddle stitch (stapled pamphlet style)


eBook (PDF)

8.5" x 11" book
54 pages

or from Amazon.




5 star reviews on Etsy:

Thank you so much! Really helpful guide for designers - Linda

Love the ebook! Can't wait to get organized :) - Diane

Thank you!! This book is a great relief. It makes the paperwork look doable and dare I say appealing. - Trapper Jane

Thank you! Great resource! - Jess S

You can purchase the eBook or bundled selections from the book on Etsy.