The Myrtle Cardigan Finished!

I started this knitting project April 2013 and I finally finished it December 2014, about a week before Christmas. I would work on the sweater in the evenings in front of mindless television. I could only manage about 2 rows per evening before I had to set it down. Towards the end I was finally comfortable enough with the lace pattern that I could pick up some speed.

I did modify the pattern for me. I lengthened the body of the sweater by two repeats and raised the neckline by two repeats. The sleeves have lace down the center of the sleeve and stockinette for the rest. The sleeve mod was a good choice because I couldn't figure out the pattern instructions for an allover lace pattern. I think it looks just fine with the stockinette. There is still some remaining funkiness on the sleeve cap decreases, but I made it work. I was a little concerned the sweater would be too small, but it blocked out to the right size just fine.

A lot of the reviewers on Ravelry rated this pattern with medium difficulty. I rated it as difficult, just below advanced. This is because the knitter has to really pay attention to the pattern instructions, which are not typical. Some knitters have complained about that. I think for a lace design, it would be difficult to design a pattern that works in multiple sizes. The designer came up with a really interesting approach by using blocks of lace and building the size. I'm not sure every size works equally well. For example, the lace pattern for the sleeve as written in the medium size just didn't work for me. I'm not sure if it was me or not, but it was not clear. Overall the pattern needed some refinement and further editing. For experienced knitters this is a minor problem. For beginners, or advanced beginners, this pattern would be difficult. I'm so grateful for the helpful hints by other knitters posted on Ravelry. I spent quit a lot of time looking at other people's projects so I could see what other people experienced. I was able to mark several projects as helpful, and refer back to them.

Specs
Yarn: Knit Picks Stroll in Sapphire Heather
Needle size: US 5 and US 6

Knitting: Myrtle Cardigan pt. 6

I previously wrote:

I'm not sure if it is an error in the pattern or my interpretation. I just joined the sleeves by knitting across the row and following the lace pattern. At this point I think the pattern is telling me I should be on row 2 of the lace repeat where I start the armhole decreases. I'm on row 3. I did not know how to join the sleeves into the work without knitting across. This means I will work row 3 and begin sleeve decreases on row 4 (decreases are supposed to occur on the pattern rows). I don't think it will make much difference but the instructions left me a bit perplexed. I read through everything twice more and I followed everything right up until the join sleeves instruction.

And then I had a head slapping moment. You CAN do decreases on the same row as joining sleeves to the body. So I ripped back - thank goodness for that lifeline that I put in just prior to adding the sleeves - and followed the instructions in the pattern on joining the sleeves. And then because it had been so long since I had worked on this, I worked the lace charts in the wrong order. I had to rip back again and start over.

I can safely say that I am on my way. I can also confirm that working only one repeat of the lace up the middle of the sleeves was also the right move. It makes doing the sleeve decreases so much easier. I have worked far enough that I have one extra repeat of the lace in the body. Now to do one more before decreasing for the neck. Fingers-crossed that I have enough yarn.

After working on this for over a year, I think I can see myself actually finishing this.

Adapting a block pattern into something else pt. 8 : the final pattern alterations and a finished design

It took me quite a while to finish up the pattern modifications for this style. I would try on the first sample and look in the mirror, then go back to the pattern many times. There were a few things that were not right. Each time I would try it on, I would pull the jacket forward so the back neck rested higher. This would throw off the shoulder line. Finally, I realized I needed to raise the back neck and raise the shoulder at the neck point on the front bodice. This situated everything nicely. The first jacket is definitely a wearable first muslin, but the second sample turned out great.

Final pattern alterations:

1. Remove extra wearing ease. I noticed that many similar cardigans are not really that much bigger than the average t-shirt, so keep this in mind when adapting your t-shirt pattern.
2. Raise the back neck 3/4". I had left the original neckline of the t-shirt, which ended up being lower than I wanted for the cardigan.
3. Raise the shoulder at the neckpoint 3/8" on front bodice to correct shoulder slope problem. I need to apply this correction to my t-shirt pattern too.
4. Shorten sleeve length.

All that's left is to double check the seams to make sure they match and cut the pattern out of tagboard. This jacket is now ready for further iterations. Maybe a shorter or slimmer version. A waist line with darts. It's all possible.

If I wanted to take this cardigan into production, I already have some of the information needed and recorded in my blank forms:

1. Style and cutting sheet lists all the pattern pieces with spec drawing.
2. Sewing spec lists each step of construction.
3. Fabric swatch cards with content information.
4. Recorded the pieces in the pattern catalog.

To turn this into a more complete spec package, I just need to add:

1. Finished pattern measurements for quality control
2. Grading spec
3. Cost analysis

I've also added a wash testing data form, which is not yet available (soon!) and not included in the book. This form records shrinkage information which is critical for knit fabrics.

Adapting a block pattern into something else pt. 7 : Pattern modifications

Have you ever had a project bug you? I had my first sample hanging in the Design Loft almost taunting me. Originally I wanted a neckband on my cardigan. Then during construction, I changed to a rolled fabric edge along the neckline. The longer I stared at it, the less I liked it. Still unsure how a folded neckband would look, I whipped up a small sample, and what do you know? It worked just fine. It could be improved with a bit of interfacing, but not too bad.

So I pulled out the seam ripper and set to work. In addition, I removed some of the extra ease I had previously added for a closer fit.

You'll notice there are still a few minor adjustments that need to be made. The sleeves are too long. Yep, I over compensated there. The shoulder needs to be brought back up. And the back neckline needs to be raised. Despite all that, I am fairly pleased with the results. This is the style of cardigan that I really like. It looks sloppy in the photo because I used a rayon/poly jersey knit that is just too lightweight and drapey for the style. The next version will be even better. And yes I do plan to wear this, even in public. It is very, very comfortable.

Adapting a block pattern into something else pt. 6 : Sewing a fitting sample

You can easily spend a lot of time creating a pattern on paper but at some point, it needs to be sewn up. It is while sewing that you'll see your design take shape and lead you to make modifications as needed. I changed the design a bit by eliminating the folded neckband. The neckband is instead a single layer that is allowed to roll. I made this change because the fabric is pretty light and it would need some kind of stabilizer, which I didn't have. The cardigan is very comfortable and fits pretty well. Even so, I added just a bit too much wearing ease. So I need to reduce some of the body width. The upper back is a tad long and the sleeves need shortened.

It's pretty hard to get everything just right on the first attempt. I've done enough girls dress patterns that I don't usually have to do many iterations. Adult clothing takes a bit more tries because I lack experience with it. Industry pattern makers and sample makers will sometimes make many iterations of a design before they get it just right. This is a slightly different approach than home sewists might take. But once the pattern is nailed down, I won't have to worry about it anymore. It will be much easier to create variations on this style too.

Before I could tackle the pattern adjustments, I needed to stop and get organized. I assigned a style number, created a style and cutting spec sheet, and assigned pattern numbers. I explain how to do this along with providing printable blank forms to fill out in my book. If you prefer keeping a digital record, you can use the examples in the book to create your own spreadsheets. In many ways I still prefer paper and pencil. It forces your brain to think differently - perhaps more analytically. I have used both paper and pencil and spreadsheets. There are advantages to both.

Adapting a block pattern into something else pt. 5 : Making the pocket pattern

Here's a sneak peak of the first sample of my cardigan pattern. I'm fairly pleased with the results, though there are a couple of minor pattern modifications to make. So more about all that later.

For now, we need to finish up the pattern. The last two pieces to deal with are the pockets (shown above) and the elastic casing. I referenced my sweater to determine the pocket dimensions and placement, which is basically a rectangle. Pockets come in all sorts of shapes and sizes with varying amounts of functionality. Pockets should be proportional to the overall garment. They can be graded for larger or smaller sizes to maintain proper proportions. Pockets can be applied in various ways and include seam and hem allowances.

I wanted a very casual look to my pocket so I used a narrow 3-thread serger hem around all four sides and topstitched it on. This allowed the fabric at the top of the pocket to roll. This detail mimics the detail on my sweater. I didn't have a lot of confidence in producing a neat topstiched pocket in which the raw edges are turned under. This is partly due to the fabric and my machine. For a more structured pocket this fabric would need a fusible to help stabilize it.

Pocket placement is noted on the pattern piece by a drill hole. In a factory, an actual hole is drilled into the fabric. I have seen knits marked with a drill that also contained a marking medium such as a washable marker. In that case, the drill bit was like a needle. My pattern at home will contain a hole large enough for a chalk marking pencil to fit. Even though there are lines on the pattern pieces indicating placement, they are not transferred to the actual fabric. They are just there for clarity.

The elastic casing is just another rectangle large enough to cover the elastic. I think mine is about 1/2" x 8".

Adapting a block pattern into something else pt. 4 : how to create the neckband pattern piece

For review read part 1, 2, and 3 of this series.

All of the major pattern pieces are now done. Next up is to do the neckband, the elastic casing for the back waist, and pocket. These three pieces are just rectangles. In a CAD pattern making environment, I will make pattern pieces for all rectangles and squares. Pattern makers, graders, marker makers and cutters all handle these kinds of pieces a little bit different, so ask if you are not sure.

For me, working on a personal pattern in my own workspace I handle rectangle and square pieces one way. I figure out the dimensions and note them on my style sheet. You can do this for patterns* that will be used in a factory setting too, but you will need to create a cutting guide for any rectangular pieces which might be graded. For now noting the cut dimensions is sufficient.

Up to this point I haven't really needed to consider how the cardigan is to be constructed. The majority of the cardigan has rather simple construction that mimics the construction of the t-shirt. But the neckband can be constructed and attached in a number of different ways. I also have to consider the stretch factor along the back neck. Do I want a 3-piece neckband with seams at the shoulders or a 2-piece neckband with a seam at center back? How do I finish the neckband at the hemline? How wide? All these things have an influence on the dimensions of the cut piece.

I like to keep things simple so I opted for a 2-piece neckband with a seam at center back. A 3-piece band might be necessary if the fabric width is too narrow. A 1-piece neckband might be possible if the cardigan was smaller. Begin by measuring the front and back neckline of the cardigan patterns.

Now it is a matter of math. There really isn't a formula for this. It's just adding and subtracting.**

Neckband width = (front neck+back neck) - (front and back shoulder seam allowances + hem allowance) + seam allowance for center back + seam allowance at hemline - some stretch factor for the back neck.

Neckband length = 2 * (Desired finished width + seam allowance)

The neckband will be cut across the width of the goods like this:

Dimensions should be written as Length x Width. In this case the Length is the shorter measurement. My neckband pattern piece will then be something like:

5 x 30 inches

A CAD version or hard pattern will look something like this with a pattern number assigned instead of the words neckband:

You'll notice that I have two notches. The notch along the length (the narrow end) instructs the sewing machine operator to stitch the neckband pieces together at that end. The other notch along the width (long direction) is the match point between the neckband and the shoulder seam of the cardigan. This notch is necessary because I reduced the back neck to account for a stretch factor. This will help the back neck fit better rather than stand straight up.

Since I am just making one size and working at home I will draw a picture indicating the notch placement with a measurement along with the cut dimensions for the neckband.


*Managing rectangular and square pattern pieces is the subject for at least two additional blog posts! Yep, it's hard to believe but there is a lot to say on the subject....

**I do all this adding and subtracting right at the calculator.

Adapting a block pattern into something else pt. 3 : Modifying the t-shirt back pattern piece and sleeves to make the cardigan

For review read part 1 and 2 of this series.

Next up on my t-shirt block pattern transformation to a cardigan is to work on the pattern pieces for the back. I won't go into too much detail because there isn't much difference from the front.

Trace off the back and add the same length and width adjustments as the front. Extend the shoulder the same amount. Drop the armhole the same amount.

Next I add drill holes to indicate the elastic for the back waist. The elastic takes up some of the extra body ease in the back to make the cardigan appear more fitted. I didn't add additional design ease for extra fullness, just the same wearing ease as the front. If you draft your own pattern, you can add as much or as little as you want. I referenced the cardigan that I am knocking off for placement. In the picture below, the drill holes appear rather large, but that is just for clarity in the drawing. I'll take a picture of the finished pattern pieces when they are ready so you can see what it all looks like. In reality, the holes will only be large enough so a marking pen(cil) can make a mark.

I also modified my sleeve for length and width. My previous blog post on how to reduce/eliminate sleeve cap ease* should give you an idea of how to adjust the sleeve cap. Walk the sleeve cap along both the front and back armhole of the bodices pieces. The armscye should be longer than the sleeve cap. Note the difference and enlarge the sleeve cap so that it matches the armscye. You can do this by slashing and spreading. Do not add any sleeve cap ease. This is a myth perpetuated by pattern drafting manuals and others. You don't need it.

Finally, I referenced some cardigans in my closet to figure out how long to make the sleeve (plus hem) and how wide to make the wrist. I have a tendency to make my sleeves a little longer than necessary because long sleeves from off the rack stuff tend to be too short for me. Also, I worry about shrinkage. I will be pre-shrinking my knit fabric, but some knits will shrink with multiple washings. In any event, add the length you need for your sleeve.

Adapting a block pattern into something else pt. 2 : Pattern modifications to turn a t-shirt into a cardigan

Rather than take pictures of my pattern making process of pencil on paper, I did up some line drawings. Just to refresh, I am tranforming a t-shirt block pattern into a knit cardigan.

I began by laying my t-shirt front pattern piece on to the cardigan that I'm knocking off and took notes on the differences. I had to keep a few things in mind as I compared the two. First, the t-shirt is close fitting with little extra wearing ease. The cardigan I'm knocking off was accidentally shrunk, so I need to add more wearing ease than is immediately apparent. A cardigan or jacket needs enough wearing ease that it is easy to put on and wear over other clothes. I can't tell you exactly how much wearing ease your pattern should have because it depends on what you prefer. Expect to add somewhere between 2-4 inches extra for this style.

The first step is to trace off half of the front pattern.

Next, I lengthened the pattern piece based on my notes. My pattern piece includes the seam allowances and hem allowance. I don't remove the hem allowance, I just make a mental note and add the hem allowance to the length I've added.

To get the angled shape of the cardigan, I extend from the center front at the hemline and draw a line from the high point of the shoulder to the hem. Gravity will pull that point down and create the angle along with a bit of drape.

The greyed out area represents an area that is removed. On paper I scribble in any area to remind myself to ignore it. You could also erase it.

Next, I add in extra wearing ease by moving out the side seam, dropping the armhole, and extending the shoulder line. The extra ease added to the side seam should only be 1/4th the total ease added because we are only working on 1/4th of the total body circumference.

I'm still debating on how much wearing ease to add. I need to compare my body measurements to the pattern to make sure it is enough.










And this is a far as I've gotten so far. I need to make similar changes to the back pattern piece. I also haven't assigned pattern piece numbers yet. Blank forms for managing patterns are available in my Pattern Making bundle or in the book with complete instructions.

Knitting: Myrtle Cardigan pt. 2

This is my progress so far - 2 repeats done. I did the first repeat about 5 times. Now that I'm further along it is much easier to read the lace and catch mistakes quicker.

A few notes on the pattern.

1. Row 1 of the charts is read left-to-right, which is opposite of normal chart reading. Because of this, I follow the written out instruction for charts A and B.

2. The "map" for the size I'm knitting up is read right-to-left on the knit rows and left-to-right on purl rows. This is one of the things that caused me to rip out and redo that first repeat.

3. After completing a section (the stitches between markers) I stop and count the stitches. After ripping out and re-doing that first repeat so many times, I learned that counting after each section saves a lot of ripping.

Knitting: Myrtle cardigan pt. 1

I started a new ambitious project. The Myrtle cardigan has fairly good reviews on Ravelry, but underneath all that are subtle negatives. Some Ravelers have been downright vicious. I did fall in love with the all over lace pattern and I'm a sucker for a pretty cardigan. Even so, I was a bit nervous to start this.

One of the negatives on the pattern is the charts. The charts are not done correctly. Despite that, I can see how and why the pattern designer arranged the pattern as she did and there is a bit of genius behind it. In order to accommodate more than one size the pattern has to be changed for each size. So she created a roadmap of sorts with various charts for each size. It does work out well, but it's confusing at first. In fact, I spent a lot of time swatching and studying the pattern instructions. And then I read through the notes of other Ravelers to see what they did to make it easier. One simple help was to cut out the map for the size I am knitting and tape it to the chart pages so I wouldn't have to flip back and forth between so many pages. I'm using lots of markers and life lines.

Anyway, this is being knit in Knit Picks Stroll in Sapphire Heather on US 6.

I'm well into the first repeat and so far it is going pretty well. Fingers crossed as I progress.