May 10, 2006

Making a dress form pt. 1 : Start by drafting a pattern

Dress forms are expensive - at least the ones used in the industry. You can purchase retail display forms but they will not hold up in the work room. The average professional form averages $1,000. Not many of us have that much cash laying around and I certainly do not. I began to think about making my own dress form. This is an idea that I have seen floated around in vintage sewing books. One of my previous employers also did the same thing and it made me wonder if  I could really do it.

Well I plunged in and drafted Aldrich's classic bodice using metric measurements without ease (size 3mo). I then drafted her sleep-suit block without ease. I had fairly good pictures of a child's full body dress form, so I used that picture to create a more anatomical form. I added shaping for a tummy and rear end. I added 1/2" seam allowances. Here are some of my pieces:



I have already sewn most of it together and stuffed it. I have already discovered some further pattern adjustments for the future. Especially the seam between the front leg and front torso. You can see the wrinkles in the picture below. I think I will angle this line more. The second thing I learned is that to get a truly smooth, surface, you need to create a cardboard body to put inside. I managed to find a piece of lightweight cardboard to put into the torso. I wrapped the cardboard in some pieces of batting and it made a huge difference. Next time, I will add some cardboard tubes to the legs and use a heavier weight of linen, like the professional forms. In this test form, I used muslin. So far, I am fairly pleased.



I have to finish sewing on the armhole pieces and finish up the neck. And then I have to figure out how to suspend this form. I will likely have to create my own stand...

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