Dress Design by Hillhouse and Mansfield

I have been looking for Dress Design by Hillhouse and Mansfield (1948) for years. It was a hot item on Ebay at one time and sold for much, much more than it was probably worth. This book has become highly collectible because it contains detailed pattern draping and drafting instructions for 1940's women's clothing design.  I found a very nice copy of this book for a mere $2 at a thrift store. I knew if I kept my eyes open at the thrift store, it would eventually show up and I checked the used books every time I was there. Yep, I was quite excited to finally find this!

This book came to my attention in design school. There was an advanced pattern making/theater class that utilized this book as a textbook. The book was, of course, long out of print and the college gained special permission to print special spiral bound copies. Word spread among the design students about this book and copies of the book would sell out before some of the students of that class could even buy their copies. I was never able to grab a copy when I was in school.

You can see from these two pages that the designs are iconic and also complex. It's these two characteristics that makes the books so highly desireable and collectible to people who wish to reproduce a 1940's vintage style. Many of these styles would be difficult, if not impossible, to replicate in a modern factory. The labor charges would be enormous. Regardless, this pattern drafting manual would be a great resource to study and learn from. I have not yet attempted any of the drafting instructions, so I can't comment on the difficulty. For me the book is for inspiration.

Fussy corners on a slip cover for a sofa

Here is a quick update on my couch slip cover. So far it has come together beautifully. I spent some time perfecting the pattern after pulling it off of the couch and added seam allowances. I managed to cut out all of the pieces and match important stripes (Striped fabric is probably not the best choice on a first attempt, btw).

One thing I learned is that couches are NOT symmetrical. I have a hard time with asymmetry when something is supposed to be symmetrical. Anyway, this back corner doesn't fit, but the opposite one does. This will be an easy fix though.

When I was perfecting the pattern, I should have pulled out my library book. The author has you add extra ease for the tuck in allowance in the corner where the deck and the inside back meet. I didn't allow extra ease and just drew a nice, easy to sew line. You can see the result in the second picture. Funny pulls. This will require a bit more work to fix. I ripped out that inner corner and I will have to add in a tuck-in gusset (which will never be seen).

For the most part, I am fairly pleased with how it fits. The unfinished slipcover has been on my couch for the last few weeks and the most amazing thing is it doesn't move. You know how most store bought slipcovers shift and move the second you sit-down. It requires constant straightening. The extra effort to make a fitted slipcover is worth it!

After I fix those fussy corners, I will just need to do some finishing work and cover the cushions. The project will need to wait until the deep, dark days of winter. Harvest is around the corner and I have to get the garden beds ready.

Are you a draper or a drafter?

In design school the teachers always told us that some students are natural drapers and some are natural drafters. Some students work better with a pencil and paper and others work better with a piece of fabric on a form. I leaned toward the pencil and paper because I prefer to work with numbers. Draping was was more difficult because it seemed less precise. My brain couldn't wrap itself around the concept of turning a drape into a pattern.

Over time draping has become less difficult, but still a challenge. I am getting a good draping exercise by making a slip cover for my old couch. Newer couches have the over-stuffed arms that curve. My couch doesn't have this and I couldn't find a slip cover to fit. A custom cover is $$$. Why not do it myself (with help from a library book on slipcovers)?

I am draping the cover with a "muslin" of green broadcloth and an old sheet.


I just draped the arm and will be moving onto the deck next. This couch has the added difficulty of being a sleeper sofa. We would never have bought a sleeper sofa in a million years but it was given to us and so we use it.

This is the fabric for the couch, a great buy from Wal-Mart. Wal-mart carries upholstery fabric and the price is usually great. BTW, that is our gold rocker. Isn't it lovely?! Unfortunately, the style is too difficult to slipcover and will have to be re-upholstered by a pro.