Adapting a block pattern into something else pt. 8 : the final pattern alterations and a finished design

It took me quite a while to finish up the pattern modifications for this style. I would try on the first sample and look in the mirror, then go back to the pattern many times. There were a few things that were not right. Each time I would try it on, I would pull the jacket forward so the back neck rested higher. This would throw off the shoulder line. Finally, I realized I needed to raise the back neck and raise the shoulder at the neck point on the front bodice. This situated everything nicely. The first jacket is definitely a wearable first muslin, but the second sample turned out great.

Final pattern alterations:

1. Remove extra wearing ease. I noticed that many similar cardigans are not really that much bigger than the average t-shirt, so keep this in mind when adapting your t-shirt pattern.
2. Raise the back neck 3/4". I had left the original neckline of the t-shirt, which ended up being lower than I wanted for the cardigan.
3. Raise the shoulder at the neckpoint 3/8" on front bodice to correct shoulder slope problem. I need to apply this correction to my t-shirt pattern too.
4. Shorten sleeve length.

All that's left is to double check the seams to make sure they match and cut the pattern out of tagboard. This jacket is now ready for further iterations. Maybe a shorter or slimmer version. A waist line with darts. It's all possible.

If I wanted to take this cardigan into production, I already have some of the information needed and recorded in my blank forms:

1. Style and cutting sheet lists all the pattern pieces with spec drawing.
2. Sewing spec lists each step of construction.
3. Fabric swatch cards with content information.
4. Recorded the pieces in the pattern catalog.

To turn this into a more complete spec package, I just need to add:

1. Finished pattern measurements for quality control
2. Grading spec
3. Cost analysis

I've also added a wash testing data form, which is not yet available (soon!) and not included in the book. This form records shrinkage information which is critical for knit fabrics.

Organizing my workspace : Creating a fabric swatch library

It's time to start organizing my fabric stash - and believe me this is only one part of a larger whole! Any factory or design space needs to have some kind of procedure and policy in place for how to handle new fabrics. Swatches should be immediately taken and relevant information recorded. If this isn't done, it becomes incredibly difficult to hunt down the information later, especially when you need to do a cost analysis. Even when sewing at home, it helps to know the basics and it makes it easier to grab a swatch when heading to the store for additional supplies. I've learned my lesson after letting my stash of fabrics pile up.

Here are the tools and supplies you might need if you are following along.

Tools

• Rotary cutter
• Cutting mat
• Ruler
• Pen
• Stapler
• Book rings
• Fabric headers*
• Bone folder (optional)
• Hole punch

I'm using the fabric headers found in the book (or ordered separately on Etsy). They can be printed on card stock or bristol board.

Book rings are incredible organizing tools for the factory or craft room. There are two sizes I like - 1" and 2". Any size you prefer will work just fine.


Acco Metal Book Rings, 1in Diameter, 100 Rings Per Box (ACC72202)
Acco Metal Book Rings, 2in Diameter, 50 Rings Per Box (ACC72205)

How to

1. Cut strips of fabric. For the small headers 2" x 7" (or however long you prefer). The larger header is about 7.5" wide and however long.
2. Fold the headers in half and staple in the corners
3. Store and display as you wish. You can use the book rings to sort your fabric swatches by color, style, or type.

Here is the beginning of my swatches. I'm waiting on my order of book rings to come so that I can organize them better.

FAQ's for The Organized Fashion Designer

The response to The Organized Fashion Designer has been awesome over the last few days! Here are the answers to a few questions I've received.

1. I see there are several options, which version is right for me.

I wanted to give customers options that will hopefully fulfill their specific needs.

The print option is great if you prefer a hard copy and can photocopy off the forms as needed. The coil binding allows for easy flipping of the pages. The saddle stitch binding lays flat and won't snag on anything like the coil sometimes does. Both options are printed on high quality paper and materials.

The PDF ebook (at Lulu and Etsy) is available instantly and you can print out the forms as needed.

The PDF bundles that contain selected collections of forms are ideal if you are not sure you want the whole ebook. Just pick the bundle you need and you're good to go.

2. I've purchased the ebook, how do I receive my copy.

On both Etsy and Lulu, the PDF is an instant download. Both sites provide a link as soon as payment is received and both send you an email with download instructions.

Etsy download instructions

Lulu - go to your account and select the downloads tab.

If you have trouble receiving your files, you will need to contact either Etsy or Lulu for additional help. If all else fails, contact me and I'll see what I can do.

3. How can I read my ebook? Can I read it on my iPad/Android/Kindle Fire?

You can read your ebook on any device that contains an app that will open PDF files. On computers, you will need Adobe Reader or something similar. On tablet devices, visit your app store and search for a PDF reader. Keep in mind that you will probably want to print out the forms you need and not all tablet devices can do this easily. Also, the ebook may not be as easy to read on small tablet devices like Kindle Fires.

4. I'm a [fill in the blank], will this book help me?

I think this book can help lots of different people

Home sewist/hobbyist - If you are ready to take your sewing to the next level, you'll want to stay organized. Keep track of TNT pattern variations, create a swatch library, catalog your styles, create a measurement chart. Not all forms will apply, but many will. If you want to know how things are done in the industry, buy the whole book. Otherwise, one of the bundles may meet your needs.

Custom clothier - Keep track of your pattern pieces, catalog styles with style numbering and style sheets. Create a measurement and grading chart.

New design entrepreneur - Start your business off right by implementing processes that will prevent chaos and save you money. Look more professional by providing the information that many contractors require right off the bat. (I also recommend reading The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing).

Established design entrepreneur - If you have lost pattern pieces, needed to take inventory, or pulled together a haphazard tech pack, then you need this book. Use these forms to refine your processes and bring some order to the chaos.

5. I don't sew/produce apparel, but I do make [fill in the blank]. Will this book help me?

Most of the forms in this book can be used for just about any sewn product. This includes bags, stuffed toys, tents, wallets, hats, tablet slip cases, diapers, umbrellas, or whatever else you can think of.

6. Can I purchase this book on Amazon?

Yes. The book is available in print on Amazon.

The Organized Fashion Designer

I'm pleased to announce that my book, The Organized Fashion Designer, is now available for purchase. This book is a collection of guides and forms that I have developed and used while working in the fashion industry. Every fashion or sewn product business exists in some state of chaos. Out of desperation, I began to create various forms and organizing systems to keep track of all of the information needed to manufacture products. This led to simple tech packs that could be pulled together in an instant. I kept track of information using expensive database management software and simple paper and pencil forms. I have even used these forms with personal projects to keep my design space organized. Now I'm sharing these forms with new designers and home hobbyists in the hope that chaos can be organized.

The book includes blank forms and how to:

• Create a simple tech pack
• Develop grade rules
• Track every major step of your product development
• figure out how much your product costs to produce
• List sewing instructions
• Create a style number system
• Helpful industry resources

And more!

The book is available in three formats.

Spiral Bound

Saddle stitch (stapled pamphlet style)


eBook (PDF)

8.5" x 11" book
54 pages

or from Amazon.




5 star reviews on Etsy:

Thank you so much! Really helpful guide for designers - Linda

Love the ebook! Can't wait to get organized :) - Diane

Thank you!! This book is a great relief. It makes the paperwork look doable and dare I say appealing. - Trapper Jane

Thank you! Great resource! - Jess S

You can purchase the eBook or bundled selections from the book on Etsy.