Showing posts with label Market Research. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Market Research. Show all posts

May 15, 2008

Does your fashion clothing line tell a story?

A clothing line that tells a story

In a previous blog entry I answered, "What is a line?". That recent blog and other things I have been reading have led me to the next logical question. Does your line tell a story? I partially addressed it in the previous blog.

Some say a line tells a story. That is the more difficult thing to interpret or even observe. Not too many customers care about your source of inspiration unless it is an integral value that they share.

There is a line story and a company story/history/values and some people confuse the two. Does the line story have to reflect the company story? Does each piece have to reflect the company values? How much do the two overlap? Or should they?

A story or narrative describes a sequence of events or parts through the written word or visual depiction. The story contains clues, pieces, or parts that the reader or observer can put together to make a whole picture or concept. At least this is the dictionary definition.

How does this apply to a line of clothes or even a clothing business? You will hear on tv shows like Project Runway that a line should tell a "story". Each piece should be part of a whole. There should be a beginning, middle, and end. If you watch a runway show, the storytelling becomes even more important because a runway show is part entertainment. The runway show of a high-end designer is an easy, not necessarily the best, example. They may start with a strong day piece, maybe some office wear, and usually end on an evening gown. It's as though their customer will be able to visualize wearing each piece as they go through their day.

In the regular old fashion business, the concept becomes more abstract. Still, each piece of your line should look like it belongs to the whole. A sales rep will merchandise your line as though it has a story. They will start with a beginning piece and end with the logical ending piece. They may start with the strongest piece, weakest, or maybe the middle and put it all together so it is most appealing to the buyer. Each buyer may get a different story. A skilled sales rep will know what will appeal best to get the buyer to buy. The entertainment value is overshadowed by the business side of buying and selling.

This why I stated above that the buyer, and even the end consumer, doesn't really care about your source of inspiration or all the blood, sweat, and tears that were shed to complete the line. You shouldn't have to tell them any of that. It isn't relevant. A customer should look at your line and pick out the pieces they like well enough to buy. The story should be subconscious.

A line sometimes has a theme, inspiration, color, style, mood that ties each piece together. If you look at Tea Collection again, you can see an apparent theme. I see beach, sand, and casual. There is a beginning, middle, and end. Do you see it too?

This is not to be confused with your company values, history or story. Now there are some design companies out there that mix their company values and history into each piece. Their story lies on the surface. It is apparent what their clothing stands for, how it was made, and why. There is nothing wrong with doing that, if you choose. But ask yourself, "How long will my story be relevant? How long will the customers care? Will they care?"

What if you create an organic cotton line of screen printed t-shirts for baby with rock star sayings made in a sweatshop free factory? Perhaps those things are part of your core company values or history. How long will this story last before it becomes stale or passe. By mixing your brand, line, and company philosophy too closely, you will limit your company's growth and creativity. If you wear your story on your shirt sleeves, people will eventually tire of you. Such a story can and should be an integral part of you as a designer, not something blasted in their face.

What do you think? How much should your line story and company values overlap?

May 05, 2008

What is a clothing line?

A merchandised clothing line

In terms of fashion, a line is a group or collection of 5-7 related pieces. Sometimes it is more. Sometimes the pieces are actually sets because children's lines tend to be sold as sets (bringing the total pieces to around 10-20). The point is that the pieces are related. The pieces have similar colors, tones, mood, feel. From a manufacturing end, the pieces repeat fabrics to minimize and utilize fabric purchases. The clothes have a consistent fit.

Some say a line tells a story. That is the more difficult thing to interpret or even observe. Not too many customers care about your source of inspiration unless it is an integral value that they share. Usually customers care about price, fit, comfort, and finally, "Does it look good?".

To muddy the waters, newer children's designers on Ebay and Etsy do collections based around a fabric grouping. They offer up one of a kind outfits that utilize a particular theme or fabric print. They will call that one outfit or piece a collection. Some of these designers evolve and manage to present a true line. In any event, they are inspiring some RTW collections.

A good example of a well merchandised line can be found at Tea Collection. They do some things really well. They have repeated fabrics. The pieces can be mixed and matched. It has a consistent feel, colors, and look. Each piece looks like it belongs. You could even say it tells a story. Can anyone else see it?

What lines are out there that you like? Post links in comments.

February 20, 2008

Design a clothing line with a plan

Coffee and notebook
If you watch Project Runway or believe any of the stereotypical Fashion Designer drivel, you may think a line is designed by pure inspiration. A designer goes to a museum and is inspired by a piece of artwork and can magically create 5-7 pieces that all work together. Or perhaps a designer flips through some swatches and tosses some to an assistant to make samples out of. This kind of thinking is silly nonsense and will lead to disaster.

It is true that a designer can be inspired by a piece of artwork, a fabric print, color, etc. But unless one designs with a plan, or end goal, it will only be an exercise in design for design's sake. A design plan should follow some basic steps and answer basic questions:
  1. Review the past line.
    1. What sold best/worst?
    2. Customer comments
    3. Returns
  2. Review past goals and set new ones.
    1. Did you meet sales expectations?
    2. What are my sales goals for this season?
    3. How is my budget?
    4. Set design budget for the next season.
  3. Shop the market between seasons.
    1. What are my competitors selling?
    2. What are their price points?
    3. Do I hang with them?
You'll notice that none of these questions have anything to do with design. They are ordinary business questions and it is good practice to review them at the end/start of a new season. Finally, I sit down and actually "design" my line.
  1. Shop for fabric/trims. (this is where I find my "inspiration".
    1. Does the fabric express the brand?
    2. Does it fit within the price point for raw materials?
  2. Determine number of styles/pieces.
    1. Can any styles be carried over in new color/print?
I then sketch, come up with words to describe the group and generally get lost in the design process for about 2 days. I sample my styles directly in the real fabric. I don't do muslins or toiles - those are only to work out pattern problems. The sample making process can take a few weeks and gets a little nitty gritty, but at the end of the process you will have designed you line.

March 06, 2007

Children's Fashion Magazines


One way to keep up with the latest fashion trends is to read fashion magazines. Over time a designer can get a feel for what is coming next even though fashion magazines focus on the now. It will at least help you keep up with your competitors.

And yet, there are few US children's fashion magazines. Occasionally, I will flip through the latest Child magazine. Child Magazine has less to do with children and more to do with parents. Their children's fashion section has always been disappointing. The latest issue especially (I am sorry I can't provide a link, so check out the newsstand). The pictures of the fashion section were ALL softened and obscured. Sure, you could get an idea of the feel or mood, but no clue what the actual clothes look like. Their fashion section is usually about 3-5 pages, featuring as many items. The photographs are very well done, but they don't help promote any fashion. Their website is even more annoying with pop-ups, flash, and survey requests.

One the best children's fashion magazines is Bambini. It is an Italian glossy magazine that comes out only twice a year and is fairly pricey. The issues and pictures correspond with Italian fashion runway shows. Most of the fashion shows are sportswear related and are very forward for the American market. Still, it is worth picking up one every now and then.

My personal favorite, and affordable, childrenswear fashion magazine is Burda Kids Fashion from Germany. The magazine comes with patterns, a definite bonus. I use the patterns for reference and ideas of how to create innovative fashion. They have lots of details that are forward for the American market, but still practical. Unfortunately, it only comes out two times a year. Ottobre is a similar magazine out of Finland that comes out four times a year

There are various other childrenswear and fashion/style magazines, but most of them come out of Europe. Some include Enfants (France), Baby & Junior (Germany), Childrenswear Buyer (UK), Divos Moda (Spain), Sasame (Japan), Studio Bambini (Australia), Vogue Bambini (France). There are two main US magazines, but they are definitely trade magazines focusing on business - Childrens Business (which was merged with WWD and is essentially defunct) and Earnshaws. I would really like to see an American version of Bambini. A magazine that has pictures from American childrenswear shows. This is a definite niche that could be filled.

To be fair, there are a few American-based online children's fashion blogs. Many of them focus on celebrity's babies and gossip. Not really that useful for following trends.

What do you read to keep up with fashion trends?