October 19, 2007

Stewart Girl's Dress pt. 2

As a continuation from my first entry on this topic, I made up some samples to illustrate the sewing problem. (Click on the images for a better view).

This is how the pattern might look. I suspect the slit would be similar to a dart. The top of the slit is angled upward. I left the bottom of the slit on grain, but it probably should angle down too, making it a true dart, and not a slit.

This is how the sample looks sewn. The yellow arrows indicate the direction of sewing each dart if sewn with a 4/5 spool industrial serger with a shirring arm (my sample is not, so this is an approximation). At the end of each dart is a flat spot because of the physical limitation of the foot and shirring arm getting in the way. Even with my straight stitch machine you can see similar problems. On the left, a pretty little tuck and dimple show up. On the right, the flat spot is more pronounced because the gathers can not start at the end of the dart opening. I also ended up with an open seam where I failed to catch one side. I could easily see these sewing errors occur in an industrial setting.

I suspect there may be more to the pattern than I am thinking.


  1. I suspect there may be more to the pattern than I am thinking.

    Yes, there is! Oh goodie goodie gum drops. I actually know something useful.

    Funny, I was thinking last night that this style, simple tho the cut may be, is one that would necessitate drafting from a fitting shell. Is that a hint enough for you? I probably won't get around to it.

    Start with the block, draw in your desired style line, cut the lines of the dart legs, cut along the desired style line, and pivot that dart closed. Then add fullness (to say nothing of gathers) to make the fit blousier.

  2. <~ le sigh> I'm gonna have to play with this, too. This stuff is addictive!

  3. give it a facing and sew in the facing gathers side top and waist line side bottom. turn the facing over and sew on seam line till finish. start from sideseam and sew inwards. idea is to treat the slash in as a dart with a facing

  4. I suspected that was how the pattern was drafted as soon as I started working on my sewn sample. I would assume that would solve the dimple problem - not sure on the sewing problem. I won't have time to try it today, but will post results when I do. One possible problem is that children's clothing doesn't necessarily require darts in the skirt until about the age 5-8.