January 03, 2012

T-shirt pattern quest pt. 4

Part 5 of the series shows the finished results.

I hope all had a wonderful holiday season! We did, but certainly not as snowy as in years past. We had more snow than anyone else in our corner of the state but it is melting quick. Very strange weather for us.

Anyway, I managed to make some progress on my t-shirt pattern. I was stuck in "analysis paralysis" trying to decide the best way to do the neck and sleeves. I spent a bit of time testing out my machines and different ways of doing a binding. The binding above was accomplished by serging the binding strip to the body and gently stretching it. Don't stretch it to it's maximum or you will have problems later. Be sure to test on scraps to know how much you should stretch it.
In this picture I am stitching the binding strip to the neck. The binding strip is on top so that I can stretch it as it goes through the machine. The shirt is supported by the table. Don't let it hang down in front of the machine or gravity will do more stretching of the shirt than you intend. I did edge finish one edge of the binding strip by serging. I didn't have enough green thread, so some of it is in black.

Before I get to far, stitch one shoulder before attaching the binding strip. Then attach the binding strip. Finally, close up the other shoulder, including the binding strip. Attach the binding strips to the sleeve hems too.

This picture shows about how much I stretched the binding strip.
After closing up the second shoulder, attach the sleeves and sew up the side seams. This is the shirt just prior to topstitching. Just fold the binding strip to the inside and topstitch carefully from the right. You can see an example in the first picture of how it turned out, but I'll post a picture of the finished shirt later. I used a regular straight stitch for topstitching. I don't need the neck to stretch to pull it over my head, so it actually turned out fine. My Babylock Evolve does have a chain stitch option, and that is how it should be done. BUT, it takes a good amount of time to switch it over and because of the overly large presser foot, you can't easily see where you are stitching - too much bother. Industrial chain stitch machines look a lot like regular machines. I believe some vintage domestic Singers also have the ability to do a chain stitch, so if you have that option, than use that.

A few last words on the binding. The original shirt had a double fold binding, which is difficult to reproduce at home without the proper folders and adjustments to your machines. The binding I did is less bulky and easier to execute with home sewing equipment and it turned out just fine.

No comments:

Post a Comment