A question on binding a leg opening on a onesie

Laura sent me this really good question on the binding around the leg opening of onesies:

I don't mind you posting anything -you can use my name. I actually want to ask many things but for now off the top of my head I have a question about making onesies. When I went to my pattern maker he said that the banding that goes around the edges, where the snaps go, comes on rolls. What is it called? I can't even find this. I am using bamboo fabric so that part I would like to be organic. 

It looks like it's just rib fabric, would I have to get it made or how is it usually done? I've been working on getting t shirts right for a while, almost there. That's a whole other thing that's been challenging. The onesies are the next thing.

The banding (or rather BINDING) that goes around the edges does come on rolls (more about this below).

You can choose whatever fabric you like for the binding. I have seen it made out of the same fabric as the onesie (generally an interlock) or a rib knit. You could even use a jersey, but it can be problematic because it doesn't have a lot of stretch. If your onesie is made of an interlock and you choose a rib knit for the binding, you will need to make sure the two fabrics are dyed together. No worries if you use the same fabric or contrasting color.

Here are some things to think about:

How heavy is the fabric? Will it be too bulky?

How much does the fabric stretch? (the manufacturer will need to adjust the machines to accomodate the stretch of the fabric).

How will you apply the binding? - You can do a double fold, single fold on top - flat on bottom, contrasting thread. Also consider the type of stitch - coverstitch, single needle, chain stitch.

I pulled some onesies out of my stash of samples and they all had a different application (pictures below). Do some comparison shopping to get an idea of what you would like. Buy a sample of what you DO want to show your sample maker and patternmaker.

Now how do you get the rolls of binding in the first place? There may be some fabric suppliers that will pre-cut the fabric rolls for you, although I imagine that would be the most expensive option. There is an easier way. When you determine your fabric yields or allocations, you have to figure out how much binding you will need. By doing some math, you can then figure out how many yards of full width fabric you need (maybe I will demonstrate the math for this, just not today). If your binding is the same fabric as the body of the onesie - just order extra fabric for the body. If your binding is different, you may have a separate fabric minimum just for the binding.

There are two ways to get the rolls made. The easiest and simplest is to find a manufacturer that has the ability to cut the rolls for you. There are machines that roll off the fabric onto a second tube and then cut the tubes into rolls with a giant saw. (From what I understand, these machines are difficult to come by and are generally antiques, at least the ones I have used were ancient. I would imagine news ones are $$$). The second option is to roll off the approximate yardage needed for binding onto a separate roll and send it off to be cut by someone like Superior Bias. Be sure to discuss these options with the manufacturer ahead of time.

You can cut your own binding for samples. Binding is generally 1" wide and cut across the width of goods. The actual width will be determined by your application method and fabric stretch.

Just a quick word about knit fabrics. Many knit fabrics are made to order and they have high minimums (sometimes as much as 3,000 yards). Some factories carry stock of their basic - usually a white fabric. When you order sample yardage, make sure to ask if the sample fabric has been completely processed - meaning washed and already dyed. Sometimes the available sample yardage is prepared for dying or printing (in other words, not completely processed). This type of fabric will shrink a lot when washed and is not the ideal for samples.

Ok, now time for some pictures:

This is a traditional binding with a contrasting rib knit fabric. The body of the onesie is a printed jersey. The binding is applied with a coverstitch machine. The binding has one fold on top and is flat on bottom. I usually call this a coverstitch binding.





This is also a coverstitch binding similar to the first example. The actual stitch is different from a traditional coverstitch, so the machine requires a different set-up. The binding is folded the same way as the first example. Of course, the design detail comes from the contrasting thread color. The binding is the same rib fabric as the body.



The binding on this onesie is made of the same fabric as the body, just a contrasting color. The fabric is a pebble (or textured) knit with not a lot of stretch. The double fold binding is applied with a single-needle stitch. The binding is a bit bulky because of the double fold and the texture. This application is probably the most appropriate for the style, just not my favorite.

Children's Fashion Magazines

One way to keep up with the latest fashion trends is to read fashion magazines. Over time a designer can get a feel for what is coming next even though fashion magazines focus on the now. It will at least help you keep up with your competitors.

And yet, there are few US children's fashion magazines. Occasionally, I will flip through the latest Child magazine. Child Magazine has less to do with children and more to do with parents. Their children's fashion section has always been disappointing. The latest issue especially (I am sorry I can't provide a link, so check out the newsstand). The pictures of the fashion section were ALL softened and obscured. Sure, you could get an idea of the feel or mood, but no clue what the actual clothes look like. Their fashion section is usually about 3-5 pages, featuring as many items. The photographs are very well done, but they don't help promote any fashion. Their website is even more annoying with pop-ups, flash, and survey requests.

One the best children's fashion magazines is Bambini. It is an Italian glossy magazine that comes out only twice a year and is fairly pricey. The issues and pictures correspond with Italian fashion runway shows. Most of the fashion shows are sportswear related and are very forward for the American market. Still, it is worth picking up one every now and then.

My personal favorite, and affordable, childrenswear fashion magazine is Burda Kids Fashion from Germany. The magazine comes with patterns, a definite bonus. I use the patterns for reference and ideas of how to create innovative fashion. They have lots of details that are forward for the American market, but still practical. Unfortunately, it only comes out two times a year. Ottobre is a similar magazine out of Finland that comes out four times a year

There are various other childrenswear and fashion/style magazines, but most of them come out of Europe. Some include Enfants (France), Baby & Junior (Germany), Childrenswear Buyer (UK), Divos Moda (Spain), Sasame (Japan), Studio Bambini (Australia), Vogue Bambini (France). There are two main US magazines, but they are definitely trade magazines focusing on business - Childrens Business (which was merged with WWD and is essentially defunct) and Earnshaws. I would really like to see an American version of Bambini. A magazine that has pictures from American childrenswear shows. This is a definite niche that could be filled.

To be fair, there are a few American-based online children's fashion blogs. Many of them focus on celebrity's babies and gossip. Not really that useful for following trends.

What do you read to keep up with fashion trends?

The search for a mechanic to fix my Singer Hemstitcher 72w-19

This is my Singer 72w-19 Hemstitcher. It was made sometime in the 1940's - the exact date can't be determined because of lost manufacturing information. It was refurbished, complete with a new paint job, before I purchased it. It is in incredibly good condition. The curious thing is this industrial machine originally came as a treadle. I would have expected manufacturers to buy machines outfitted with motors in the 1940's. My machine has been retrofitted with a new, modern motor, but I can switch over to the treadle if the power were to go out.

Speaking of power outages... Have you ever been stitching on an industrial machine when the power DID go out? Usually, there is enough reserve power to allow the operator to get the piece out of the machine. This is good because you don't want to leave pieces in a machine because of oil spotting. If the power stays off for more than a few hours, the operators usually get sent home. BUT, if the machines could be switched over to manual power, no lost productivity! There is a learning curve with manual treadles, and I certainly need more practice.

[back from sidetrack] I need to buy a rug and those plastic mover thingy's to put under the legs. It weighs a ton! The cardboard is meant to protect my carpet until I can get a rug.

Here is a close-up of the needle-assembly. You can see there are two needles and two punches. The pre-punch starts a hole. As the fabric moves through, the two needles move in a zig-zag type motion in tandem with a second punch. BTW, the punches are really called piercers. I prefer the term punches because the pierces do not cut the yarns of the fabric. Rather, they just move the yarns apart.

When I first purchased the machine, I needed to have some minor adjustments made to improve the stitch quality. These types of machine, and especially the age, make it difficult to find mechanics willing to work on it. Even when new, each hemstitcher would have it's own unique "personality". A mechanic would have to adjust each machine until it stitched properly, which could be about a dozen possible minor adjustments. Over time, it's personality becomes more distinct. This translates into a lot of time for mechanics who have to tinker around with moving things as little as 1/16".

I ended up calling every sewing machine mechanic within a 500 mile radius. I finally found a hobbyist mechanic who specialized in old hemstitchers. He took the time to teach me how to make many of the adjustments myself, including proper threading. He was worth every penny! Plus, he has hard to find replacement parts. A true treasure.

The most difficult situation I now face is replacing the needles. The two needles need to be oriented just exactly right or I may end up with skipped stitches or broken threads. It is a task I dread, so I don't push the machine to its limits. It is capable of stitching 1300 SPM!

I need to purchase a proper 3-spool thread stand. Here is my make-do set-up. The hanger stuck into an elastic spool works great for the bobbin winder.

In case you are wondering what a hemstitcher does, here is a stitch sample. A hemstitcher creates holes, held open by the stitching. My stitch sample is done on flannels close to the edge. A crochet edging can then be applied as a decorative treatment. I have seen the hemstitching, itself, used as a decorative element on clothing and linens. There really are a lot of possibilities. I hemstitch baby flannel blankets and burp cloths for local customers.

BTW, modern embroidery machines can reproduce a hemstitch, but the quality can't even compare to the real thing. Also, it takes twice as long to stitch.