Thread color does matter!

Most of the time, manufacturers know to match the thread color to the body of your design. If you hand them a sample, then they will reproduce it down to the thread color. Most manufacturers are very good about this, so specifying the thread color is usually overlooked.

But every now and then, you will run across a rare manufacturer that is either color blind or will use whatever thread they have on the shelf. It may or may not match. If you specified the thread color, then you can go back to the manufacturer with a charge-back. If you didn't, well then you might be stuck. (I have seen this happen!)

Another reason to spec out a thread color is to match a screen print, embroidery, or coordinating piece. The thread color becomes an integral part of the design. Would you really want to leave the end color up to chance?

It's really simple. On your spec sheets state "Thread color: American & Efird [color name] [color number]. You may even want to go to the extreme of including a thread color swatch, just in case the manufacturer buys thread elsewhere. Wind off some thread onto your fingers and make a little, mini-hank of thread and tape it onto the page. You can buy thread swatch books from American & Efird (You'll have to talk to a sales rep about a swatch book). You can even get thread dyed to match!

Big Box Technical Designers

Several years ago (was it really that long ago), I learned a very important lesson. I was working on a private label program for a Big Box retailer, company X. The technical specs they sent us were fairly straight forward. There were a few wonky measurements, but we forced our samples to spec.

As a patternmaker/pseudo tech designer, working on a private label program for a large account, I worked under the assumption that the BIG company knew what it was doing. Their specs were gospel and they could not be adjusted. You meet spec or you risk losing the account. This was true for another private label program for company Y. However, company Y's specs were superior (in other words they worked out of the box).

With any private label program, you take a selected sample and adjust the patterns to meet spec. You re-sew the sample in production fabric and submit it to the company's technical design department. The technical designers will go over every measurment and construction detail. They have the power to cancel the order if you don't meet spec. Usually, the first sample is rejected and you have to submit a second with corrections. (This is especially true if this if the first time on a new private label program). Needless to say, there is a lot of pressure to meet spec the first or second time. There is a lot riding on these samples.

So we submit our sample (with forced spec conformity) to company X. We received back our audit reports with required corrections. The weird thing was that the technical designers changed some of the required specs (now some were really wonky) and they insisted on construction/pattern changes. The construction/pattern changes would have affected several things, especially allocations and labor costs. Private label programs operate on slim margins, and our in-house manufacturer would not agree to the changes. The measurement issues didn't make sense, proportionally.

What to do? Here was a high dollar order and we wouldn't be able to meet spec. The only way to solve the problem was to call the technical designer at Company X and explain the situation. I expected them to reply, "Meet spec or we cancel the order."

To my surprise, the technical designers agreed to allow some of our measurments and construction details to pass. I don't think I explained too much. It was more like, "It would be easier for us to do things this way."

I learned something very valuable that day. If something isn't working, present an alternative - it just might be acceptable. I also learned that the technical designers for Big Box retailers don't know everything.

The reason this experience came back to me is because I am facing a similar situation, except I am the technical designer on the other end. As part of my consulting, I am helping to develop a new style in China. It is a difficult style, so I expected the first samples to have a few problems. Unfortunately, the samples had more than a few problems (some minor, some not). I wish the Chinese factory understood that it would be ok to present an alternative. I could see they struggled to meet my spec, so they forced it (and didn't really succeed). Not sure how this will be resolved....

Bundiebaby - A good idea that could be great

Competing in the childrenswear fashion industry is all about finding a niche and doing it well. Jody Williams is one such individual who has a great niche, but is struggling with the execution. Jody was recently highlighted in Forbes magazine, (March 26, 2007 issue). (You have to register at Forbes online to read the article, so I am not providing the link to the article. Head to the library instead).

Jody creates clothing for children with special needs. Specifically children who need feeding tubes and ostomy bags. Her business idea developed after a rather difficult night with a special needs foster child. She sat down in front of her sewing machine to solve a problem and created a one-piece swaddling outfit with only one opening for diaper changes.

The article was not all that positive towards Jody. It reveals some interesting facts about her costs versus her retail prices. DE's need to pay attention to this kind of stuff, or it could sink a start-up. And please don't get me wrong. I WANT her to succeed. Her idea is very much needed. This is one DE that would benefit from reading Kathleen's book.

She has spent $35,000 and four years to sell only 100 units. Her wholesale cost for retailers is $22 and she retails them for about $40. She spends $10/each to manufacture. One very revealing detail is that she spends 26 cents for each label! But to be fair, many people will pay $40 for a bodysuit/onesie at a specialty boutique. I think she can overcome the sticker shock if she finds the right distribution and marketing.

She certainly needs to lower her manufacturing costs, but she has also chosen a difficult customer profile. Cash-strapped parents of special needs children have to be convinced to part with $40 for one outfit. Plus, hospitals are very difficult to work with because of fierce competition for high dollar contracts.

I hope she does well. Special needs children need her.