November 12, 2013

Adapting a block pattern into something else pt. 5 T-shirt to Cardigan

Here's a sneak peak of the first sample of my cardigan pattern. I'm fairly pleased with the results, though there are a couple of minor pattern modifications to make. So more about all that later.

For now, we need to finish up the pattern. The last two pieces to deal with are the pockets (shown above) and the elastic casing. I referenced my sweater to determine the pocket dimensions and placement, which is basically a rectangle. Pockets come in all sorts of shapes and sizes with varying amounts of functionality. Pockets should be proportional to the overall garment. They can be graded for larger or smaller sizes to maintain proper proportions. Pockets can be applied in various ways and include seam and hem allowances.

I wanted a very casual look to my pocket so I used a narrow 3-thread serger hem around all four sides and topstitched it on. This allowed the fabric at the top of the pocket to roll. This detail mimics the detail on my sweater. I didn't have a lot of confidence in producing a neat topstiched pocket in which the raw edges are turned under. This is partly due to the fabric and my machine. For a more structured pocket this fabric would need a fusible to help stabilize it.

Pocket placement is noted on the pattern piece by a drill hole. In a factory, an actual hole is drilled into the fabric. I have seen knits marked with a drill that also contained a marking medium such as a washable marker. In that case, the drill bit was like a needle. My pattern at home will contain a hole large enough for a chalk marking pencil to fit. Even though there are lines on the pattern pieces indicating placement, they are not transferred to the actual fabric. They are just there for clarity.

The elastic casing is just another rectangle large enough to cover the elastic. I think mine is about 1/2" x 8".

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