T-shirt pattern quest pt. 3 : Sewing up the first sample

The next step in recreating my favorite t-shirt pattern is to test out some different construction options by sewing up a sample. This sample will also be used to double check fit. I began by testing some binding options on some scraps. I eventually discovered the best method for my machines that gave the best looking results.

Before stitching the neckbinding to the t-shirt, I stitched one shoulder and overedged one edge of the neck binding.

In the picture below I am stitching the binding strip to the neck. The binding strip is on top so that I can stretch it as it goes through the machine. The shirt is supported by the table. Don't let it hang down in front of the machine or gravity will do more stretching of the shirt than you intend. I did edge finish one edge of the binding strip by serging. I didn't have enough green thread, so some of it is in black.

Next, I followed the same steps in stitching the binding to the sleeve hem edge. These sleeves show about how much I stretch the binding as it went through the machine.

I then stitched the remaining shoulder seam closed through the neckbinding. This means there is a visible seam at the shoulder. This type of shoulder - neckline construction is also visible on the original t-shirt.

After closing up the second shoulder, attach the sleeves and sew up the side seams. This is the shirt just prior to topstitching. Just fold the binding strip to the inside and topstitch carefully from the right. You can see an example in the first picture of how it turned out, but I'll post a picture of the finished shirt later. I used a regular straight stitch for topstitching. I don't need the neck to stretch to pull it over my head, so it actually turned out fine. My Babylock Evolve does have a chain stitch option, and that is how it should be done. BUT, it takes a good amount of time to switch it over and because of the overly large presser foot, you can't easily see where you are stitching - too much bother. Industrial chain stitch machines look a lot like regular machines. I believe some vintage domestic Singers also have the ability to do a chain stitch, so if you have that option, than use that.

A few last words on the binding. The original shirt had a double fold binding, which is difficult to reproduce at home without the proper folders and adjustments to your machines. The binding I did is less bulky and easier to execute with home sewing equipment and it turned out just fine.

T-shirt pattern quest pt. 2 : Calculating the amount stretch in a knit fabric

Patterns for styles made out of a knit fabric need to include the amount of wearing ease for the desired fit. In some cases the wearing ease is actually negative ease. Negative ease means the pattern measurement is smaller than the actual corresponding body measurement. A good example of this would be yoga pants in which the pants stretch to fit a particular size. In some cases the pattern has positive wearing ease because the style is larger than the corresponding body measurements, such as an oversized sweatshirt. Determining how much to reduce a pattern for a desired type of fit requires first determining a knit fabrics stretch factor.

Note - My pattern is intended for knits that have already been pre-washed and shrunk from retail store knits. So no extra allowance is included for shrinkage.

At this point I needed to check the amount of stretch in this fabric. Fold the fabric so that you are not testing on the edge of the fabric. Place two pins 5 inches apart.

Pick up the fabric and hold the left pin in your left hand at the zero mark and then stretch the fabric as far as it will go with your right hand. Watch where the right pin stretches on the stretch ruler. In this case, my fabric stretches about 30%. Only stretch the fabric as far as it will reasonably go without overly stressing the fabric.

Let go of the fabric with your right hand and watch to see if the fabric returns to it's original position. Knits that do not return at all, have no recovery. In this case, my fabric returned to the 10% mark, which isn't great, but probably ok for a top.

I had forgotten, but this particular fabric is an interlock rather than a jersey. Interlocks do not stretch nearly as much as a jersey. I had originally planned on adding about 1 inch of extra wearing ease because I wanted a bit looser fit. Now I wonder if I should add a bit of extra? Once I work that out, I will modify my pattern and cut it out.

T-shirt pattern quest pt. 1 : Create a rub-off of an existing t-shirt

My favorite t-shirt company went out of business and I really loved the fit of their t-shirts. The best solution I could come up with was to recreate the pattern by doing a rub-off of one of the t-shirts. This pattern is for my own personal use, but you will find many pattern makers who do rub-offs of existing styles as a starting point. This is one way to study how another pattern maker developed their pattern. I have done this in the industry too, but the resulting style was not an exact copy and bore no resemblance to the initial style. Copying a style in this way for the sake of reproducing an identical product to sell is another thing entirely.

You can see the resulting shape of the pattern that I rubbed-off or traced. The armhole is symmetrical for the front and back bodices, which is fairly typical for t-shirts. Technically, the armhole should be different front to back and if you have fit issues, this would be one place to adjust. For now, I'm leaving it alone.

The original pattern also had binding on the neck and sleeves. I wasn't sure how to accomplish that and have it look neat on a home sewing machine. I think there may be a way that I'll play with later. At this point, I added seam allowances for a narrow neck ribbing.

Patterns for knits are designed with the amount of stretch AND recovery. The original t-shirt had some spandex, which means it stretches and recovers a bit better than a 100% cotton jersey. The original t-shirt is pretty slim fitting because of the spandex and because it is meant as a layering t-shirt to wear under other tops. I wanted to have a pattern I could use with 100% cotton jerseys, so I plan on adding a bit of extra wearing ease.

I noted the amount of stretch for the original knit fabric on the pattern. The stretch ruler is found in the Armstrong pattern drafting book. I'll target my knit fabric shopping for between 50-60% stretch - just have to remember to take a copy of the stretch ruler. I do have some stash knits but it has taken me over a week to find it. More on that later...