Book Review: Mending Matters

Mending Matters by Katrina Rodabaugh is a visually beautiful book. There is full color photography on every page. The pages are thick and glossy with a sewn binding in a hardcover book. The layout and graphic design work is really well done. Those qualities alone may justify the price.

Mending Matters is a book with two blended parts. The first part contains essays on Rodabaugh's journey to Slow Fashion. She explains what Slow Fashion is and the values that are important to the movement. There are also essays from other bloggers involved in the movement. The second part involves tutorials on mending with step-by-step photography for each project.

I have mixed opinions on this book. The first involves the discussion on Slow Fashion. Like the traditional food crowd, there are certain values involved with the consumption of clothing and textiles. There are words like sustainability, ethics, social justice, and activism used throughout. I almost felt brow-beaten by the philosophy. For Rodabaugh, Slow Fashion means buying and wearing only biodegradable fibers like cotton and linen. It means rejecting Fast Fashion trends completely and wearing clothing until there is no hope of repairing it. It means buying only clothing at a thrift store and using fabric dyes made from plants. There are a lot of little decisions one must make in order to be a part of the Slow Fashion movement. My first introduction to Slow Fashion was the Alabama Chanin trend, which has many beautiful examples. Rodabaugh's book goes a step further.


But even the author concedes that as you become more aware and educated about how clothing and textiles are produced, you will likely have to compromise on the very values you proclaim. This is because the entire production cycle from fiber to fabric to clothing to retail involves some process that may harm the environment or conflict with some other value. As an example, Rodabaugh wears linen because it is a biodegradable fiber. But the process in creating that linen fiber involves manual labor in foreign countries that do not necessarily pay what we would consider fair wages, followed by bleaching, dying, and transportation across long distances.

But as I have trouble with the Slow Fashion movement, I am actually participating. For me it is less about a political statement or personal philosophy. Granted, I think that we should work to find safer ways to grow and process fibers and find ways to reduce waste. Those are good things. My participation is more about thriftiness and economy. As I read this book, I realized that a majority of my wardrobe comes from the thrift store. There are, of course, certain things I can't buy at a thrift store, and those are purchased new, but on discount. I also repair and mend as needed and up-cycle what I can. Everything else goes back to the thrift store at some point. I never put a label on those activities because it was something that I naturally did.

The second part of the book contains tutorials on how to mend. The tutorials themselves are rather simple projects. Many similar projects can be found through online tutorials from various places. Rodabaugh does have a certain aesthetic and it really shines in the photography. Her mending uses sashiko stitching to elevate a mend or patch to something artistic. Sashiko thread is a cotton thread with long cotton staples and is known for its smooth, lustrous quality. Pearl cotton thread is a bit more economical, comes in many colors, and is pretty much the same thing. Sashiko stitching is precise stitching in a repeated pattern. Rodabaugh relaxes her stitching, though there are many beautiful examples of true Sashiko stitching online that you could follow if you choose.


In the past mending was meant to be invisible, if possible. In this case, it is meant to be a focal point. Some of the projects, such as the bags, lack practicality and would likely not hold up to heavy use. Hand stitching with large stitches lack strength. But, for some things it is probably fine. Below is a link to my pinterest board with more mending ideas.

As I said, I have mixed feelings. It is a beautiful book, no doubt. The projects are inspiring in their aesthetic appeal. It is making me rethink a few mending projects of my own. But is the book as a whole worth the cost? I'm not sure. What are your thoughts on the Slow Fashion movement?

*I am an Amazon affiliate and any links to Amazon are affiliate links.

The Singer Hemstitcher 72w19 - Questions and Answers

I sold my hemstitcher. It took almost a year once I decided it was time. I was not getting enough work to justify the space anymore. At the same time, I wasn't enjoying the work that I did get because I just didn't have the energy. I did love this machine and it was very difficult to let it go. Luckily, I think the person who bought this was very excited and happy about acquiring the machine.

Over the years, I have received a lot of questions about this machine. My previous blog entry on this machine is one of my most popular entries. I was supposed to get notifications anytime someone reached out to me through my Contact page. It didn't work and I didn't think to check until recently. So, in one grand finale for the hemstitcher, I'll try to answer those questions.

Repairs

I have a Singer 72W19 and I'm trying to find someone in the southeast that works on them. Do you know of anyone?

I would appreciate knowing the names for the 3 people in Utah that service Hemstitching machines. I have a hemstitching machine that I inherited from my husbands grandmother. It is a model No. 72w19 fitted with a motor. I think the timing is out as it doesn't seem to do what it's supposed to. Could you tell me who in Utah works on these old machines and how I can get in touch with them.

Could you share the contact info of person that showed you to care and maintain your hemstitcher. I have one but I can't find anyone to help me adjust and maintain the machine. Thank you so much.

The person I found to help me repair my machine many years ago was past retirement. He would be close to 90 years old now, if he is still alive. I'm grateful I found him because he taught me enough that I could adjust the machine myself. It took me calling every sewing machine repair person I could find asking them if they worked on these machines. Most repair people, technicians, or industrial sewing machine mechanics do not really know how to adjust these machines. Some will say they will try, but that always made me nervous. Incorrectly adjusted machines could cause damage to the machine. The timing on the machine has a lot of variables and each component has to be adjusted in order for it to work.

That said, I only know of one place that MIGHT work on these. Daines sold new versions of the hemstitcher. But, I will warn you that they may decline or charge you a lot of money. Your best bet is to get a copy of the manual and learn to adjust the machine yourself.

I recommend purchasing the manual and parts list. I believe I bought my copies on ebay or some other site that sold old manuals. Well worth the investment!

Specific Repairs

I cannot figure out how to replace my needle that broke. I can’t seem to fit it into the ‘slot’. Anyone who can walk me through it?!? Please!!

It is hard to provide advice on this because I can't see what you are doing. Perhaps the needle clamp screw needs to be loosened more?

I wanted to verify which screw on the instruction page to turn - is it the "S" screw? A friend said that I could mess up everything if I unscrewed the wrong one, and I am scared to try! I bought this machine a couple of months ago and it runs, but has a broken right needle. Thank you so much!

I'm not sure which screw is the "S" screw. There is a needle clamp screw facing toward the front near the top of the needle in the needle bar. If you could refer to a manual and/or parts list, you will find the correct screw.

That said, you will not mess everything up by loosening a screw. If something came out of adjustment by doing so, you will just have to work to put things back correctly. This is how I learned how to adjust the timing.

I have a Singer 72w19 and need to change the needles. First time for this. When looking at the front of the machine there are 2 sets of needles. Do I use the top set or the bottom set? I'm thinking the bottom set but when I loosen the screw the needle doesn't even budge. Any instruction on this would be appreciated. Thank you, Denise

There is only one set of needles and they look like regular sewing machine needles. Perhaps you are referring to the piercers? A look at the manual/parts list will help you identify what you are looking at.

Hi, I have a Singer 72w 19 hemstitch machine and I am having trouble with the thread breaking. I was stitching on it and suddenly the left needle broke for some unknown reason. I replaced both needles and now I'm having trouble with the thread breaking about every six inches of sewing.

This is a common problem with these machines, especially the left needle thread. I did not completely eliminate the problem with my machine, but I did minimize it. First, make sure the needles are entering the fabric correctly. Very minor adjustments there can make a big difference. It is possible the left needle is too close to the piercer and the piercer is cutting the thread. Or the left needle is not rotated to the right position. Next, be sure to oil all the moving parts on the front of the machine where metal touches metal. The needle bars and levers all need to be able to move freely. I would add a drop of oil on each of those parts before sewing. I also had a screw that would work itself loose on one of the levers and cause the needle to move out of adjustment. A drop of loctite eventually prevented the screw from coming loose from the machine vibration. Finally, use the best polyester thread you can find. In my case, a Gutermann polyester thread from a cone worked best.

I have seen on our classified ads that there is a hemstitcher head for sale for 500 dollars. I have an old industrial serger in a table that has been converted to house power. Here is my question: Do you think that I could swap out the serger for the hemstitcher?

Most likely no. The table tops are cut specifically for the machine. A hemstitcher will not fit in an industrial serger table. If you had the correct table top and stand, you could move the motor over provided you have the correct wheel size on the motor. Some motors have fly wheels that will cause the machine to run too fast.

Machine Parts

I need a complete needle and piercer holder for my hemstitcher. Do you have any of them? Please let me know what parts you have. Thank you.

Where do you purchase your needles for your hemstitch machine? I have two of them (one 1904 and one 1928), but I need to order needles. Can you help me out? Thank you, Marcia

I recently received a Singer 72-19 and need resources for supplies and how to use it. Suggestions? I live in Sandy, Utah

You can buy needles from an industrial sewing machine supply. Daines had needles at one time, but they charge a lot for shipping (it's not something they normally do and they don't really like to do it). For piercers, I ended up using google to find a source from China. Some industrial supplies or hardware store will have some of the screws. All other parts would have to come from a parts machine.

Machine Value

I have inherited Singer 72w-19 Hemsticher, W522308. I think it is from 1920. It has lots of needles and misc attachments. I am wondering if there is a market for it. it comes with a table. I would appreciate any info on it. Thank You. Jenny

Yes, there is some value if the machine is in good working order and comes with a table and motor. I have read there are attachments available for the machine, but I have never seen them. A good machine will go for a few thousand dollars, but I can't put an exact value on one. I was pretty firm on the price I asked for my machine and eventually got what I wanted. It did take me a while to sell it though

Machine Operation

How can I make the hemstitch go faster it is so slow thanks Linda Farnsworth.

It may seem as though the machine is too slow. Each rotation requires several things happening at once. First the pre-punch piercer punches the fabric and the fabric moves forward. The main piercer then enters the pre-punched hole along with the needles. The needles enter the same hole about three times. This process is longer than a regular sewing machine. Speeding up the machine with a different size pulley increases the likelihood of parts hitting each other or the throat plate and throwing everything off. It is essential the machine run slower because that is how it is designed.

Yahoo Group

Did you run the hemstitch Yahoo group? I hadn't checked on my groups lately and discovered it's gone...darn! I will admit to googling Esther + hemstitch machine and finding your lovely blog..... So even if you aren't the same Esther, I'm glad I found your blog anyway!

Yes, I ran a Yahoo Group for Hemstitchers for a while. At least a couple of years. It received almost no traffic and I just didn't have the time to continue it. I did ask for volunteers to take it over before shutting it down, but no one seemed interested. It's a bit of a moot point now since Yahoo Groups are dying and Yahoo has done nothing to update or improve the Group software in over 10 years. I think Yahoo Groups will eventually be shut down.

Tips for keeping a work journal as a designer

It wasn't long into my professional life that I started keeping a work journal. A technical designer or even a pattern maker will potentially have to be responsible to a lot of different people. Most apparel companies these days are small businesses and frequently family-owned small businesses. It is difficult to find a job as a technical designer/pattern maker with an established successful business, but I managed to do it two times. My client work is limited, but there are similar difficulties in keeping track of your work.

Keeping a work journal as an employee

As an employee I had to respond to all kinds of situations. A technical designer communicates with individuals at all levels of product development and manufacturing. This would include fabric sourcing, testing, fitting, pattern making, grading, cost analysis, returns, and even customer service. The boss could change from project to project. In my experience at family-owned businesses, various family members would be responsible for certain areas and would sometimes be in charge of a particular project. The shifting responsible could sometimes land on you if one department or individual disagrees with a particular decision.

In order to protect myself, I started keeping a work journal. It was pretty basic and bare bones. I usually used an inexpensive spiral bound notebook that I would pick up at the back to school sales. Though, you could go as fancy as you choose. These are the usual details I would record:

1. Date
2. Project/Style name
3. Description of work completed that day
4. Time spent on the project

But sometimes I would record requests for changes:

1. Date
2. Project/Style Name
3. Description of work completed and WHO REQUESTED IT
4. Time spent on the project

Sometimes the requested work was a change in a pattern. Sometimes I questioned the validity of the request. But, I wasn't the boss. I could advise or recommend something different, but ultimately it was not my final responsibility so long as I could prove who made the request and when.

Sometimes I had design meetings or phone meetings. I recorded:

1. Date
2. Topics discussed
3. Assignments and deadlines
4. The person who gave the assignment.

A typical entry would read:

January 5, 2018
Style: 1234
Completed first pattern draft. Double checked grade. Sent style to have first sample cut and sewn.

Style 2234
Boss requested this style have a 1 inch hem instead of 3/4 inch. Made adjustment and double checked grade. Sent style to have new sample sewn in intended fabric for style.

My work journal saved me a few times. I would have the company owner or project boss come back and ask about something. I could look back in my journal and tell them exactly what happened. There were a few times I would have multiple people tell me to do one thing and then completely reverse and do the opposite. Believe me, you will not regret keeping a work journal!

Keeping a journal for client work

My journal entries for client work is not much different. I would include, of course, the name of the client and a description of the project. Another important thing to keep track of is the time spent on the project. Keeping track of time will let you know if you are being fairly compensated and whether you need to make adjustments in billing. Eventually these notes would be moved to a file that would include any pictures, correspondence, and invoices.

1. Date
2. Client name
3. Project/Style Description
4. Work completed
5. Time spent
6. Any other relevant correspondence.

Understanding pattern grading for children's clothing

I'm catching up with some questions and comments. It's been a while since I've answered a grading question.

My brain is spinning with all the reading I've been doing on this subject. Can you please explain to me why I couldn't grade within my separate size ranges by grading, for example, 3-6 with one particular grade rule and then taking then changing my grade rule for the next section? Would this not be taking the difference growth rates and such into account? I feel like there's probably a reason that I haven't quite grasped yet. Thanks so much.

Grading women's clothing is different from grading children's clothing. Women's clothing is graded with either a 1 1/2" or 2" grade between the sizes. This grade rule refers to the change in circumference measurements between the sizes. There is a lot of criticism for this grade rule because it appears to not have a connection to actual body measurements. That assumption is not strictly true, but it is true this practice is a convenience for the industry. It is too difficult to mass produce clothing and create a custom fit for an individual woman. This grading convention has historically proven to fit the most women in the most efficient way.

Men's clothing has many more sizes. These sizes are given size names that correspond to actual body measurements such as waist, pant leg inseam, or neck and sleeve. The circumference difference is usually 1 inch but it may be 2 inches for larger sizes.

Children's clothing is different. Children grow exponentially from birth. Their growth makes it difficult to group children into size groups, but over 70 years ago a measurement study managed to give us enough measurement data to do just that. That measurement data shows that the change between children's sizes is not even. This is true regardless of how sizes are arranged or named. The circumference measurement difference may range between 1/2" to 1" or more. There are similar irregularities in length grades. Children's clothing brands interpret measurements in their own way, so you will see variation in the marketplace.

Speaking to this particular question. If you group your children's sizes so they are called 0-3M, 3-6M, 6-9M, etc., your grade rule will still vary between the sizes. But there will be no grade change between a 3M and a 6M in the size called 3-6M. When developing a grade rule for this kind of size system, I interpret the sizes like this:

0-3M = 3M
3-6M = 6M
6-9M = 9M

You can call your sizes whatever you choose, but for pattern making and grading you have to assign a meaning to that size. Interpreting sizes with a size label of 0-3M as a single size 3M is the easiest way to develop grade rules and it seems to work.

Knitting with Chronic Fatigue

I know it has been a while. Some of the recent comments here have even suggested this is a dead blog, like so many. It's true I have not posted in a while. My Chronic Fatigue flared up pretty bad in January and it continued through to about August. I've always self-diagnosed my fatigue as functional chronic fatigue. In other words I have always been able to work through the fatigue and just deal with it. This last time was different. I still worked, but I started to wonder if I really could continue working. Besides the fatigue, the brain fog was overwhelming. And then it was waking up each day stiff and sore as though I hadn't slept at all.

I have been dealing with fatigue for over 10 years. The fatigue has varied in intensity but rarely interfered with my ability to do what I wanted. I did get tired of being tired all the time though. Just over a year ago I felt like I hit a wall. I needed help because my fatigue was starting to interfere with my enjoyment in life. I won't go into all the details, but it was enough for me to start looking for an open-minded doctor. Thankfully, I found an integrative medicine doctor who believed me. That was key. She started me on a supplement routine and one prescribed medication. I started to feel good and my energy level came back. So good that I felt like picking up my knitting needles again. I was ready to knit something challenging.

I started these socks in August of 2017. I picked the Celtic Denim Sock pattern because I had always wanted to knit socks with cables. Many ravelers mentioned the socks were a bit small in circumference, so to add to the challenge, I adapted the pattern. I did a 72 stitch cast-on instead of 64, distributing the extra stitches into the pattern. I also added a 1x1 rib for about 1 inch at the cuff. It was too difficult to jump into the cables without having some kind of stabilizing rows where you didn't feel like your needles would fly off the stitches. The cables really slowed down my sock knitting until I got the hang of it. After finishing the leg on sock #1, it was actually pretty easy.

So, I started the socks in August. I was feeling so good that I started to reduce some of my supplements (big mistake!). In September we started on a major renovation project for our house. As these things go, there were problems every step of the way. My focus and attention was not on these socks, but I picked them up now and then and managed to finish the first sock by January. Our house project finally, sort of wrapped up in December, so in theory I should have been able dig in to sock #2 and finish this project up. Instead, my body collapsed from the stress of the renovation project and my fatigue was the worst it had ever been.

It took me 8 months to finish sock #2. The brain fog and fatigue really zapped my knitting mojo. I had to let go of a lot of things, which only added to my frustration. Thankfully, after a couple of appointments with my doctor over several months, she got me back on track with a new regimen. I can't say I'm 100% yet, but I'm doing much better.  These socks literally took a year of my life and represent a story of what it takes to deal with chronic fatigue.

So these are my tips of dealing with fatigue and knitting (or any other hobby, project, or life plan):

1. Don't give up!
2. Find a doctor that believes you. I highly recommend an integrative or functional medicine doctor.
3. Don't stop taking your meds, supplements included, without talking to your doctor first.
4. Work on a project gradually. A few rows at a time is great! Don't give up!
5. It's ok to let a project languish for a while.

This blog is not really a health blog. It started with my posts on pattern making and fashion design and then evolved to whatever project I was currently working on. I will probably be getting back to that in time. One problem came to my attention. My contact form was supposed to send me notifications but it wasn't working properly. I will be working through those questions and comments over the next few months as I write new posts. I will also provide updates on current projects as time (and energy) allows.