Country of origin labeling for clothing

I couldn't resist writing a blog about this particular care/content tag found in a t-shirt that was a Christmas present. This is perhaps one of the worst labels I have seen in a long time. In fact, I believe it was purposely written to make it look like it was made in the USA.

The maker of this shirt did a few things right. The tag clearly states the content of 100% Cotton and it was placed at the back of the neck. Unfortunately, this is the only thing they did right.

The first obvious problem is the different font sizes. Notice how the words Dominican Republic are smaller than anything else. You might think they made those words smaller so they could fit on one line of the tag. But the placement of all the words could make a consumer believe the shirt was actually made in the USA. I did when I first looked at it. Further, the addition of the phrase "of USA Fabric" is extraneous. It should simply state, "Made in Dominican Republic" period.

This tag would not be acceptable by FTC guidelines. When writing a tag, all of the words on the tag should be of a uniform, legible font size. The tag would be rejected for more than the font size issue. This particular shirt is missing a care tag and manufacturer identification. The content tag does not need to include the manufacturers name or RN number. That information should be included on the care tag and/or other packaging. It would be impossible to track down who manufactured this shirt. The FTC could go after the retailer, in this case.

This kind of thing should have been caught when the items were brought into the US. I am, however, not surprised to see it was missed.

Hidden traps in manufacturing childrens clothing in China

Except for specialty boutique items, most children's clothing sold in the US is manufactured in either China, Vietnam or some other Asian country. If you are a children's clothing designer, you may be faced with competing product from these countries. Competition has become increasingly fierce as labor and raw material prices are rock bottom in China. You may be tempted to send your manufacturing to China in order to compete.

I am not against manufacturing in China. In fact, depending on your product, it may be the best option. The Chinese have become more skilled over time and can produce superior product. They can incorporate embroidery very cheaply, or produce complex pieces that many US factories balk at. If you are considering a move to China, you may want to read an article from Business Week (Nov 27, 2006), titled, Secrets, Lies, And Sweatshops and a book titled China, Inc.: How the Rise of the Next Superpower Challenges America and the World, by Ted Fishman.

Both this article and book detail the complexities of manufacturing in China. Clothing manufacturers will take advantage of you if you do not have enough money to protect your interests. They will bend over backwards to land the large volume accounts, like Wal-Mart, but not necessarily a small company. In other words, a small company can manufacture in China, but it must be done with a great deal of care and oversight. A small company can find factories willing to work with them, the difficulty is in finding an honest one. The same can be said about some of the remaining US and Mexico factories.

The greatest difficulty about manufacturing in China is quality control and worker efficiency. A Chinese factory would rather hire 5 employees for one job instead of buying a piece of equipment to perform that one operation. The owners are thinking only of short term solutions to get them through their current contract. Eventually those 5 workers will have to be replaced with a more efficient piece of equipment in order to compete effectively. I can see a time when Chinese workers will start to demand better working conditions and pay - it is only a matter of time.

Quality control is a huge issue. As I stated above, Chinese factories can produce superior product. Time constraints, the value of the contract, and the motivation of the factory all play a part. As the Business Week article suggests, inspecting the factories is the only current solution. And yet, parts of your product may be manufactured somewhere else and you will only see a part of it. If you do not have a person inspecting the product during manufacturing or prior to shipping, you may be stuck with sub-standard merchandise. Most, if not all, Chinese manufacturers require payment in full before shipping product. At least in this respect, the Chinese are different from their American counterparts.

I am not an expert in manufacturing in China. I have only experienced a small portion - creating technical specs to send to Chinese factories. And yet, this is an important trend for children's clothing designers to know about. I have seen some very good product come out of China. It can be done. Just be very careful and keep a close eye on your factory, sourcing agents, and product quality.

Tracking production with a numbering system

Every now and then it becomes necessary to know when and where previous production was made. This issue may come up when doing quality auditing or reviewing customer returns. If there is no tracking information included with a garment, it will be impossible to backtrack through manufacturing to correct problems. If you manufacture the same item multiple times and/or in different places, a tracking system becomes absolutely essential.

The best way to backtrack is to include either a cut number or modified style number on a care/content tag. Modifying a style number is the simplest method and may be best if you work with only a few factories and few cuts. Say you are cutting style #1001 and sending it to Bob's Contract Sewing, your style # could read BCS1001. This method works well if you cut one style at a few different places, one time.

If you manufacture t-shirts, you may need a more complex cut number assignment. Let's say your t-shirts are cut every month at three different locations. In this case, you will need to devise a cut numbering system. Start by assigning a number for each factory. Your cut number should incorporate the style number, factory, date, and some number. If we are working with style #1001, at factory 3, for the month of November, and this is the first cut of the month, the number may look something like this: 1001-03-1106-01. I added hyphens in this example so you could see each number designation. If this number is too long, some people separate the style number from the cut number:

Style: 1001
Cut: 3110601

It is not necessary to place the style and cut numbers on the care/content labels, but that is the most convenient place. These numbers are frequently placed at the bottom of the care/content tag just before the country of origin. Sometimes it is found on the reverse side of the labels or even on a separate label stuck into a side seam. Here is one example of including it on a care/content tag:

100% Cotton
Machine wash cold,
use non-chlorine
bleach as needed,
tumble dry,
low iron.
Size: 9M
Style: 1001
Cut: 3110601
Made in USA

I have seen a variety of cut numbering systems, so feel free to devise whatever method will work for you. Make sure to keep some kind of log in a spreadsheet or notebook. You can track what numbers have been used, what cuts have been sent and returned, etc. The most useful reason for assigning a cut number is to track problems back to a factory. If a customer returns something because a seam opened up, you can go back to the factory and alert them to this quality issue. Some factories keep very careful records of the operator and operation performed on a cut, so you can imagine how far you can back track and correct problems.

If you would like more examples, check out product in any major department store. You will see they require their vendors to incorporate a cut numbering system. It makes for a good industry practice.

FAQ: Can I make a profit in the fashion business?

I received some great questions in my mail box the other day from a new childrenswear designer:

Is getting into children's wear a big business? I mean, can one be profitable? I see a lot of my friends who are women's wear designers just breakeven after all that hard work. I enjoy designing for kids and feel that it might be less competitive that women's wear so therefore one may be able to be a tad more profitable in this area?

Let me tackle these one at a time.

Is getting into children's wear a big business?
Yes. I won't take the time to find the numbers, but there is a lot of money to be made in children's apparel. Well known designers may start with women's wear, but they end with children's. It may seem they add a children's line as an afterthought, but that is also where the largest profit margins are. With a well established women's brand, it makes sense to extend it into children. Labor and material costs are less, but the prices can be as high as women's. Hollywood stars and well-meaning, new mothers launch their own children's line when they start a family. Then let's throw in cheap imports by the major chain stores. How is one supposed to compete with that!? If you don't fall into any of these categories, it can seem overwhelming! There is a lot of competition in children's clothing.

I mean, can one be profitable?

With all of the competition that already exists, this is a good question to ask. And it all depends on how you run your business. Any business is difficult. If you start a business, you are the one that bears the responsibility to make it successful. Often the hours you work will be longer and harder than a regular job. You will take your work home at night, lose your weekends, and may never really take a vacation. You do all of this in the hopes of making a profit (and maybe because you love it too).

The simple definition of a profit is to spend less money than you make. Even with the complexity of the fashion business, this simple definition remains true. At the end of the day (week, month), you must sit down and analyze your income vs. expenditures. If you are spending more than you make, you will not make a profit.

The real question here is "How do I make a profit?" This is a slightly more complex answer. There are a lot of variables, even in the childrenswear category. I have read business books and talked with many people in the fashion business. Here are some of the guidelines I have learned that I now use for my business:

1. Spend less than you make.

2. Avoid debt. Most small businesses will take out a small business loan or use savings to get started. Determine a plan to pay off your loans as soon as possible. A debt payment is less money earned in income.

3. Put a little into business savings and make a small charitable donation to your favorite organization (It will make you feel good, is tax deductible, and it just might help somebody). You can use your business savings for future equipment, expansion, and to cover lean times.

4. Try to deal on a cash basis as much as possible. If you are just starting out, you are not in a position to extend credit to anyone, nor to overextend your own credit situation. If you make a sale, try to get money as soon as delivery is made.

5. Plan carefully. More mistakes are made by not planning carefully. Kathleen Fasanella's book, The Entrepreneur's Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing explains how to manufacture your designs. If you follow each step of the process outlined in her book, then you will more likely succeed.

6. Keep growth under control. You may have received a $20,000 order, but unless you can fill it, don't do it. It may seem ludicrous to turn down such a large order. But if you take the order and don't fill, you can do a lot damage and may put yourself out of business. When you are ready to start taking such large orders, have everything in place beforehand.

7. Set goals. Why are you in business? Where do you want to go? These can be large and lofty or small and mundane. One of my goals is to be able to pay my bills and earn X amount of income. Another goal of mine is to provide X number of jobs to the local economy. Try to set goals that are realistic for the short term, but keep in mind the big ones.

8. Stay focused. When starting out, it is best to focus on one category - like girl's dresses or boys outfits. Later, you can expand into related categories.

9. Ask for help (or hire it). It is easy to get overwhelmed. But believe it or not, there are many out there willing to help.

10. Enjoy what you do! If you love what you do, you are more likely to stick with it.

I see a lot of my friends who are women's wear designers just breakeven after all that hard work. I enjoy designing for kids and feel that it might be less competitive than women's wear so therefore one may be able to be a tad more profitable in this area?

The first few financial years of your business will either break even or run in the red. It is a simple fact of life. But if it has been longer than that, then I have to wonder if these designers are following any of the guidelines above. And really, it doesn't matter what you design, you must pay attention to the business end. At the end of the day, the numbers must make sense. Any category has an equal chance of success or failure. If you want to design kid's clothes, then go for it!

I hope these guidelines are helpful. They have proven to work for me. You can succeed in fashion and as Tim Gunn says, "Carry on!".

You CAN manufacture in the US!

So many companies have moved off-shore to manufacture in China. Those that moved to Mexico in the early 90's have even made the move to China. The word manufacture nearly equals China. With all of the talk about China and the near non-existance of apparel manufacturing in the US, you would think manufacturing will never return here. The few remaining factories in the United States, owned by small companies, produce little volume.

And then a suprise in the latest Newsweek magazine (6-26-06) about American Apparel. Here is a company located in Los Angeles that employs about 3,500 people and pays them $8-$18/hour! They produce about 90,000 units a day. On top of that their sales were $250,000,000 in 2005. Yes, you can manufacture in the US!

One thing is clear - you CAN manufacture in the US!

2019 note - American Apparel has had some financial struggles. Their financial woes have been in part dealing with lawsuits from the previous CEO's behavior toward his employees. There have been other issues because American Apparel not only manufactured but retailed their own product. Thus the company had to compete with cheaper imported products at the retail level. Regardless of their struggles, apparel manufacturing is returning to the United States. Many contractors are maxed out in capacity and are not able to take on more work even though there is a demand. There is high demand for qualified pattern makers, graders, technical designers, and sewing contractors.

Sizing Up Children pt. 2 : How to find size charts for children

"The problem is children’s clothing manufacturers cling to their 30+ year old size charts. They protect their sizing information like a trade secret (not uncommon in every segment of the fashion biz). And while major studies are being done on men and women, they are not being done on children. (If I am wrong, please let me know)."

After doing some more reading at fashion-incubator, I discovered I am only half right. The 30 year old study on children's measurements done in 1975/1977 is publically available here: Anthropometric Data of Children. This is the data that most manufacturers continue to use. Since it is freely available, there is not much incentive to change. I have been using size chart information based on this data for at least 10 years because this is what the companies I worked for used. To be fair, it is still fairly good information.

Another source for sizing information is available from ASTM International. Kathleen Fasanella at fashion-incubator.com lists the documents to search for at her blog: How to obtain sizing and grading info. This data set is updated about every five years or so. Even though the data information is priced fairly, you still need to buy 3 charts to cover all children infant through teenagers, a price of about $90. The other thing to consider when purchasing from ASTM is that you only license the information. Be sure to read the license agreement! You are given permission to download on one computer and print out only ONE copy of the charts. You also give permission to ASTM to come and inspect your company computer and materials at any reasonable time to ensure you are complying.

As a small company, I do not like this license agreement. What if I have two or three technical designers who need access to this chart? My costs for this information multiplies! Plus, who wants to allow some other company/organization to come in and inspect your premises at will?! I wonder if ASTM has ever tried to enforce their license?

I also don't like the propriatary nature of the data. The only way to get cooperation from businesses to standardize is to make the information available for free. I realize as an organization they need to make money to support a needed role. But they could take a hint from other opensource projects and raise money by donation or some other model.

Because of the difficulty with ASTM, I now understand why companies continue to use 30 year old data.

Springtime Lilacs Dress

The story of this design is rather simple. I picked up the fabric in New York city in April 2001. I was in love with lavendar at the time, but lost interest when I got home. Five years later, I finally was inspired to turn this into a baby sundress. I had developed a line of beautiful baby clothes with hand embroidery at my last employer. Unfortunately that line was dropped. I am now bringing it back with the embroidery design on this dress. I added a matching hat as an accessory.

Dress description: One of a kind. Size 3 mo. Bias ties for straps. 2 inch deep hem (can easily be lengthened). The skirt has a full 60" sweep. 100% Linen. Dry Clean. The dress is exactly the same in the back, minus embroidery. Made in USA.

A close-up of the embroidery on the dress and hat.