November 08, 2006

Tracking production with a numbering system

Every now and then it becomes necessary to know when and where previous production was made. This issue may come up when doing quality auditing or reviewing customer returns. If there is no tracking information included with a garment, it will be impossible to backtrack through manufacturing to correct problems. If you manufacture the same item multiple times and/or in different places, a tracking system becomes absolutely essential.

The best way to backtrack is to include either a cut number or modified style number on a care/content tag. Modifying a style number is the simplest method and may be best if you work with only a few factories and few cuts. Say you are cutting style #1001 and sending it to Bob's Contract Sewing, your style # could read BCS1001. This method works well if you cut one style at a few different places, one time.

If you manufacture t-shirts, you may need a more complex cut number assignment. Let's say your t-shirts are cut every month at three different locations. In this case, you will need to devise a cut numbering system. Start by assigning a number for each factory. Your cut number should incorporate the style number, factory, date, and some number. If we are working with style #1001, at factory 3, for the month of November, and this is the first cut of the month, the number may look something like this: 1001-03-1106-01. I added hyphens in this example so you could see each number designation. If this number is too long, some people separate the style number from the cut number:

Style: 1001
Cut: 3110601

It is not necessary to place the style and cut numbers on the care/content labels, but that is the most convenient place. These numbers are frequently placed at the bottom of the care/content tag just before the country of origin. Sometimes it is found on the reverse side of the labels or even on a separate label stuck into a side seam. Here is one example of including it on a care/content tag:

100% Cotton
Machine wash cold,
use non-chlorine
bleach as needed,
tumble dry,
low iron.
Size: 9M
Style: 1001
Cut: 3110601
Made in USA

I have seen a variety of cut numbering systems, so feel free to devise whatever method will work for you. Make sure to keep some kind of log in a spreadsheet or notebook. You can track what numbers have been used, what cuts have been sent and returned, etc. The most useful reason for assigning a cut number is to track problems back to a factory. If a customer returns something because a seam opened up, you can go back to the factory and alert them to this quality issue. Some factories keep very careful records of the operator and operation performed on a cut, so you can imagine how far you can back track and correct problems.

If you would like more examples, check out product in any major department store. You will see they require their vendors to incorporate a cut numbering system. It makes for a good industry practice.

November 06, 2006

Inkscape for Technical Fashion Drawing


I discovered a few days ago a new software product called Inkscape. Actually, I have fallen in love with it. Inkscape is an open-source vector drawing program. I have used many drawing programs over the years and this programs fits my needs almost perfectly.

In college and later in employment I used a little program called Micrografix. I still love Micrografix. It was a simple vector drawing program and it was incredibly easy to use. It allowed you to scan a drawing and trace around it. You could select points (or nodes) on a line and change them from curves to sharp points. As a technical designer, I used this program to create all of my technical drawings. I had a library of component parts - sleeves, pant legs, collars. I could mix and match my pieces very quickly. The best part was it was incredibly affordable.

As the internet and technology revolution has sped up, Micrografix was left in the dust. It was acquired by Corel and pretty much abandoned. CorelDraw is very similar, but far more complex. I am sure it is a great program - I currently use PaintshopPro and love it. My mistake was buying CorelDraw Essentials. It is a horrible program. It has similar features as Micrografix, but only the "essential" functions from the better program CorelDraw. Editing points and lines are more difficult. Plus, the program is unstable -- it has crashed on me more times than I can count.

I have used Adobe Illustrator. I like Illustrator, but the program is big. It hogs a lot of memory and takes forever to load. Even though I had Illustrator available at work, I used Micrografix because I could have it open and switch between programs very quickly. Illustrator is loaded with many tools and options that are not necessary for simple line drawings. Plus the $1000 price tag is just too much.

Enter the open source movement. I have been waiting for a better option to come along and Inkscape fits the bill. It is very similar to Micrografix in what it can do. Quick node editing and great free-hand drawing tools. The entire program is a mere 17 megs. It loads quickly and even better, it is free. There are a few things that do bother me about the program. Some of the right-click menus don't make sense. Plus there are not many translations. In other words, you can save your drawing in only a few formats - svg, dxf, and eps. Still, many other drawing programs support those formats. The program has also crashed on me a few times.

Despite the few problems and annoyances, I still like this program. Because the program is open source, it can only get better (and it won't cost a fortune to upgrade!). Corel and Adobe should be very nervous.

October 30, 2006

Product Development Manager, hmmm....

Every now and then, I will peruse help wanted ads that may be of interest to me. I will look in places that I may be interested in living someday - say tropical islands. When I read this ad, I am sorry, but I had to laugh. I know what kind of salary I would ask for this particular position. I would consider this position a Technical Design position, which should be connected to the Design department. This would be a senior level position. Instead, look at the department it is assigned and to whom you would report.

After you read the job requirements, next look at the required qualifications. Wow, is all I can say. They are willing to consider someone with 3-5 years of merchandising experience (something unrelated to most of the job functions described)! I have shopped in the retail store this company owns and I know how many styles they produce each season. They have a men's, women's, and children's clothing line, in various sizes and fabrications that changes seasonally. What they really need is someone with 10-20 years of senior level Technical Design experience. The patternmaking and grading functions would be a full-time job all by itself. If you are truly interested in this job, you can read the entire job description at Expo, but be prepared to say goodbye to your life.

I really don't blame the company for this ad. I am sure this was written by a human resource person who doesn't really have a clue what is involved here.

Position: Product Development Manager
Department: Merchandising
Reports To: Senior Product Development Manager

SUMMARY
Responsible for style development and all components of spec packet, which include style, fit, trim, labels, hangtags, care instructions, care label, packing, wash test, and buyer samples. Works directly with production factories and vendors to assure all information is complete and consistent.

ESSENTIAL DUTIES & RESPONSIBILITIES include the following, other duties may be assigned.

COMPANY PRINCIPLES

As an employee of Company X, promotes the Vision and Mission of the Company. Performs the position duties and responsibilities in accordance with the Company’s Statement of Values.

1. Works with Art Team & Buyers to develop and design seasonal style line.
2. Analyzes samples and prototypes.
3. Sources fabrics and trims.
4. Works with factories to cost garments and arrive at best possible value through garment construction and fabric utilization.
5. Responsible for all style specification packages for internal & vendor use. Assures information is complete and consistent.
6. Works directly with factory on all components of spec packet. I.e. style, fit, and trim, labels, hangtags, care instructions, care label, packing, and buyer samples.
7. Finalize fit corrections on design fit model.
8. Grade garments on computer to be produced according to seasonal style line.
9. Responsible for all pattern making & revisions.
10. Responsible for the creation of all line sketches.
11. Responsible for numbering/tracking system for styles, fabrications and prints.
12. Responsible for all components of PDM computer software.
13. Assists in presentations of assortment plans.
14. All other related duties assigned by manager.

Requirements:
QUALIFICATIONS
To perform this position successfully, an individual must be able to perform each essential duty satisfactorily. The requirements listed below are representative of the knowledge, skill, and/or ability required. Reasonable accommodations may be made to enable individuals with disabilities to perform the essential functions.

EDUCATION and/or EXPERIENCE
§ Bachelor’s degree (BA) or equivalent.
§ 3-5 years of apparel product development or merchandising experience preferred
§ Textile Art, fashion design or merchandising education preferred
§ Knowledge and understanding of the relation between fabric, art, print, fabrication and style
§ Detail oriented
§ Strong analytical and problem solving skills
§ Experience with Microsoft Word, Microsoft Excel, Adobe Photo Shop.