Too Many Sizes pt. 2

In my previous blog entry on this subject I discussed combining sizes to reduce the overall number of sizes produced. As I have been developing patterns for my new line of dresses, Prairie Roses, I have attempted to practice what I preach.

I have been doing all of the pattern making and grading for my new dress line entirely by hand. I do use CAD, but only for my employer who actually owns the system. I try to keep everything separate so there are no ethical questions (My patterns have different shaping and grading anyway). Also, I want to experience what most new designers experience since so few DE's can afford a CAD system. It takes soooo much time to do it all by hand, especially the grading. I am getting faster on the grading, but it is very time consuming. I have been using Jack Handford's book on grading and my graded patterns have turned out really well. The grade rules are beautiful - there is no other way to describe it. They are nice and consistent and all of the pattern measurements fall into an acceptable range.

My patterns fall into the infant-toddler size range and I have chosen to combine the 24M and 2T. I also added a 9 mo size, which is considered a half size and not usually included. I decided to let customers tell me whether they want a 9 mo or not with sales. It isn't that big of a deal to split the grade between the 6 mo and 12 mo. If it doesn't sell, it is easy enough to drop it. Anyway, my sizes break down like this.

3 - 6 - 9 - 12 - 18
24M/2T - 3T - 4T

You will notice I combined the 24M with the toddler group. This means my 24M/2T patterns will be based on grading from the 3T. I decided a 24M child has shaping more closely related to toddlers than infants.

In my infant grouping, the sample/base size turns into the 9M. Since the 9M is something I may not keep around, it doesn't make sense to sample in that size. I prefer to use a 12M as a sample size. If you move the 24M back up to the infant grouping and drop the 9M, then the 12M is the right sample size. Also, it is easier to find a more willing 12M child model than younger.

Now here is a dirty little secret in the childrenswear industry. Many childrenswear companies actually sample in the smallest size, 3M. This is because they end up making A LOT of samples and the samples are made from actual production fabric, not muslin. Sampling in the smallest size saves fabric. The dress form I made is actually a 3M, so that is my sample size too. It causes problems with drafting first patterns and grading. As soon as I can afford it, I will be buying a 12M form and sampling in that size.

Fussy corners on a slip cover for a sofa

Here is a quick update on my couch slip cover. So far it has come together beautifully. I spent some time perfecting the pattern after pulling it off of the couch and added seam allowances. I managed to cut out all of the pieces and match important stripes (Striped fabric is probably not the best choice on a first attempt, btw).

One thing I learned is that couches are NOT symmetrical. I have a hard time with asymmetry when something is supposed to be symmetrical. Anyway, this back corner doesn't fit, but the opposite one does. This will be an easy fix though.

When I was perfecting the pattern, I should have pulled out my library book. The author has you add extra ease for the tuck in allowance in the corner where the deck and the inside back meet. I didn't allow extra ease and just drew a nice, easy to sew line. You can see the result in the second picture. Funny pulls. This will require a bit more work to fix. I ripped out that inner corner and I will have to add in a tuck-in gusset (which will never be seen).

For the most part, I am fairly pleased with how it fits. The unfinished slipcover has been on my couch for the last few weeks and the most amazing thing is it doesn't move. You know how most store bought slipcovers shift and move the second you sit-down. It requires constant straightening. The extra effort to make a fitted slipcover is worth it!

After I fix those fussy corners, I will just need to do some finishing work and cover the cushions. The project will need to wait until the deep, dark days of winter. Harvest is around the corner and I have to get the garden beds ready.

Who puts whom in a corner?

You have probably seen them. Those cute infant-toddler shirts with quotes, phrases, and images inspired by popular culture. You can buy those shirts everywhere from CafePress, on-line retailers, shopping malls, and even street corners. I am sure no one ever thought some of those phrases would be trademarked. If you follow the link, you will find that Lions Gate is going after people who print a quote from their movie on t-shirts. The defendants are producers of baby t-shirts and products.

The case will be difficult to prove. The phrase that can't be said has been "borrowed" by various companies since the movie came out 20 years ago. Lions Gate sells approved merchandise with the phrase that can't be said. But until now, they have failed to adequately defend their own trademark. After 20 years, is the trademark valid? I did a quick search for it at the USPTO and couldn't find it. Was it ever registered?

If Lions Gate wins this case, can you imagine other movie studios going after people for similar things? If you can't say the phrase that can't be said, how many other phrases can't be uttered? Maybe CafePress should be nervous - so many of their baby products are inspired by movie utterances.

Ethics aside, this case illustrates a danger to the freedom of speech. Who knew a common phrase could be trademarked? Should we be concerned when we use the word Apple or ask where the beef is?

Let's take another tack. The movie studios are benefiting from essentially free advertising. Think about all of those babies wearing shirts with the phrase that can't be said. Their parents will remember that movie and perhaps want to see it again through video purchases or rentals. Perhaps movie studios have a right to protect their intellectual property, but at what cost? Are they willing to risk losing free advertising and potential customers? Apparently they are.