Another Care/Content Label Example

It's time to look at another care/content label. These labels were found in a 12M knit top that is part of a two-piece set.

The first thing that caught my eye was the placement of the country of origin. Country of origin information must be placed so that it can be seen without flipping the label over. Nothing can cover the country of origin information, like a brand label. It should be placed in an easily accessible area, like the back neck or waistband.

Another interesting observation is the style number and lot number information included on the front of the label. The lot number probably refers to the production lot and corresponds to a date of manufacture (lot numbers are unique to each company, so it could mean almost anything). Generally, this information is found elsewhere, like the reverse of the tag or even on a separate tag stuck into a side seam. It is certainly not anything that a customer is going to care about. I like the inclusion of this info for easy back-tracking, but it should be placed elsewhere.

This tag contains both an RN and CA numbers. The CA number is the Canadian equivalent to the the US RN number. This product was most likely sold in both Canada and the US, thus the need for two numbers.

The reverse side of the label contains all relevant information. My only nit-pick is the overall formatting. I generally prefer the content information first, followed by the care info. This label is just the opposite. Further, the content information is a different font, font size, and right-aligned compared to the care instructions. It makes the whole reverse side appear sloppy.

My final nit-pick is that the label should say "2 piece set" somewhere. Inevitably, the two pieces will be separated. This helps the shipping and store employees on the retail end realize there should be two pieces on the hanger.

Grading Stack Points

I am going to try and get back to my grading explanations today. My head is a bit fuzzy after a long week and an especially late night. To review, just click on the grading category link to the right. Click on the picture for a bigger view.

The diagram on the left shows three possible grading examples. This is a basic front bodice pattern piece that is folded in half. Each example is called a nest meaning each size is stacked on top of each other from smallest to largest. The stars represent the point of origin for each grade. The numbers at each point correspond to a grade rule. I will briefly explain each of these items below.

By laying your graded patterns on top of each other in a nest, you can easily see if your pattern is grading proportionally. The stars not only show the point of origin, but the stack point. You can stack your patterns in three general areas and have the grade look different each time. In computerized grading, you can move your stack point anywhere you choose and the grading software will update your grades automatically. For consistency's sake, it is important to determine before you start grading where your stack point/grading point of origin will be.

Each stack point will cause your grading to look different. Most of the grading world uses Example 1. The point of origin is placed in the center of the pattern pieces and growth occurs in all directions. In Example 2, the stack point is placed at the center front waistline and growth occurs to the side and upwards to the neck. Example 3 is the same result as 2, but placed at the center front neck.

I prefer Example 3 and all of my patterns are generally graded this way. It makes the most sense to me and the grade rules are simpler. Most of the proportional changes between sizes occur this way in nature. A person's neck doesn't actually move upward in each size, but rather their waist moves down. Perhaps this is just how my mind works. In any event, you can choose which ever point makes the most sense to you.

I have been using the term grade rules rather loosely in my previous grading articles. Grade rules refer to measurement charts broken down into grade steps. Grade rules can also refer to the actual change that occurs at a point. In the drawings above, I have numbers assigned to each point. Those numbers can refer to a grade rule. For example:

Rule X,Y changes

1. 0, 0
2. 1/8, 1/8

You can create a chart like the one above, if you prefer. This method is used in computerized grading and each grade rule is placed in a grade library (specific to a size range). Once a style is ready to grade, you simply apply a rule to each point and the pattern pieces will stay graded regardless of pattern changes. It is less helpful when hand grading and may make things more complicated. To be honest, I rarely use grade libraries when computer grading. They can speed things up if you have consistently similar styles. However, things always need tweaking, so I prefer to manually manipulate the grade at each point. Most grading software will allow you to assign a grade rule from a library and still manually edit the point. The computer will begin a grade command by starting with rule #1 and working around through each point. Rule 1 is almost always set as (0,0) and it should always be your stack point.

When hand grading, you should start your grading at your stack point. Once that is set, you then move to the next point, say the neck-shoulder point and mark all of the changes there. Work counter-clockwise (or vice versa, if you choose), around to each point. Setting up a consistent method will help you keep things straight.

Ok. Enough explanation. Decide on your stack point and get ready to grade.

A chair from the factory floor

This is the chair I sit on nearly every day and it has a story. It's not fancy, in fact it is rather ugly and uncomfortable. It has a few paint splatters from being used to repaint rooms in my house. The seat and paint is worn. What makes this chair so special?

This chair came from a local sewing factory as it was closing its manufacturing operations - the factory where I was first employed out of college. I don't know what possessed me to buy it other than it was cheap. It was after I brought it home that I noticed the date on the bottom of the chair. The same year I was born. A foreshadowing of destiny? More like life coming around full circle.

This particular factory produced little girls' dresses. My mother bought dresses from their factory outlet store - and yes I wore them. No one ever thought that I would be working in that same factory.

Sitting on this chair every day reminds me of where I came from, where I got my start. It is also give me tremendous sympathy for the poor women (literally) who sat on this chair and sewed little girls dresses day after day. Dresses that literally thousands have worn. All in an effort to earn meager wages. Even though the chair is uncomfortable, it keeps me from getting too cocky.

CAD 101 published at Fashion Incubator

I am being a lazy cross-poster today. Part One of my co-written articles on CAD can be found at Fashion-Incubator (part two should be published January 19th). My co-writer is Angela from Eve and Ellie. Check out Angela's website - it is beautiful! Kathleen did a great job pairing us up. Not only was Angela great to work with, but we both work with girl's special occasion clothing. My current special occasion work can be seen at One Small Child. Most of my work is technical design, but you can see some of my designs in the mix.

If there is interest, I can expand on some of my CAD drafting, grading techniques, pattern naming, organization, etc. In the mean time I am working on the back-end of my store, which is taking a lot of my time. I have been reading up on CSS, PHP web design and database management (for coding geeks only!). I decided that to truly get the website I want, I need to switch my store manager to something new. This is all behind the scenes and is in the building and testing stages. My current store continues to work and is secure. The new store will be 100% more powerful!

So my grading projects and boys' shirt pattern revision is still in the works, just slowed down. I have my base pattern graded up to my needed size 24M. And guess what! The neck measures a little over 12"! Now it is only a matter of applying that neck to the shirt pattern.

In other news, the consumer product safety commission has issued recalls on more children's jewelry, rattles, teethers, and magnetic toys. Be sure to read this page!

Recall : Drawstrings and snaps

The consumer product safety commission issued another product recall for sweatshirts sized 8-12 with drawstrings in the hoods. These sweatshirts were sold in Ross and Gordman stores. Customers who have purchased them should remove the drawstrings immediately. In all, there were 12 recalls for drawstrings in 2006.

At this point, I am just plain annoyed. The drawstring guideline (links to a pdf) has been around since 1996! We have had 11 years to learn not to put drawstrings in children's clothing. The recalls are occurring in the same types of products and even in the same stores repeatedly. I blame the designers. I blame the manufacturers. I blame the buyers. Shame on them. They should all know better.

In another recall, Samara is recalling two-piece overall sets because the snaps contain lead. The CPSC is working on creating a rule about metal jewelry for children that contain lead. The proposed rule will ban "children’s metal jewelry that has more than 0.06 percent of total lead" Once adopted this rule will certainly apply to any metal components found on clothing, including snaps and zipper pulls. There were four additional recalls for lead in December alone. The CPSC is aggressively enforcing this rule now, even though it has not been officially adopted.

Macy's is recalling outfits because of snaps that detach and pose a choking hazard. See Kai Run, of Woodinville, Wash, is recalling children's boots for the same reason.

Just as an observation, much of the above recalled product was manufacted in China. Manufactured Chinese product may be more or less safe than product made in the USA. Certainly, there are some shady manufacturers (US and Chinese) who send approval samples and test results that pass, and then turn around and use different components. Manufacturing overseas is no excuse for ignoring safety guidelines.

Let's make 2007 a safer year for children's clothing products.