2019 notes - The original images for this blog entry have disappeared
and I haven't had time to recreate them. I do have more complete
examples in my ebook, The Organized Fashion Designer.
I finally made my example measurement/grading charts. It took a little dancing as I had to create them in a spreadsheet, export them as a PDF and then convert them over to a jpg. Before I get too far, it may be helpful to review my previous blogs on grading: Creating a grading standard and Creating a grading standard part 2. You should have your own measurement charts handy. BTW, the measurements in my charts are real. I found them from the Sears website. I do not necessarily endorse Sears measurements as the industry standard - they were just handy (To be fair, their measurements are pretty good). Your own measurement charts should be far more complete and detailed than these for pattern development and actual grading anyway. This is the first step I take in developing actual grade rules.
Right off, I hope you notice a few important things. First, I have clearly marked my sample sizes. In this example they are sizes 10 and 10+. Each chart is labeled clearly. You would think these things should be obvious, but you would be surprised at what I have seen. Hanging off of the left side are numbers. These numbers are points of measure and should correspond to a How to Measure diagram (a future blog) and are not relevant for the immediate discussion. Also notice that my size ranges differ. The regular sizes run 7-16 and the plus sizes run 8+ to 18+. This is a fairly typical difference between the two groups. Also notice the difference in the measurements. There should be some obvious differences between a Misses and a Plus sizes chart too.
Usually, I have my grading chart separate from my measurement chart. I combined them here so you could more easily see how I am developing my grading rules. In the column for my sample sizes, I have placed a zero. A sample size is also called a base size in grading. It is your starting point and each subsequent size will grow or shrink proportionally off your base size. Next I subtract the difference between the base size and the next largest size. In the regular size chart, you will notice there is a 1.5" difference in the chest measurement from a size 10 to a size 12. This difference is called a grade step. Next I subtract the difference between a size 14 and a size 12. I don't subtract Size 14 from a size 10 because that is not the next grade step. Continue to subtract the next larger size with the previous size.
To calculate the grade for your smaller sizes, subtract your sample size from the next smaller size. Be sure to add the negative sign, which indicates the grade is getting smaller. Repeat by subtracting each size with the next smaller size. Create a grade for each measurement on your chart.
You will notice that the measurements and grades all have beautiful numbers. The measurements increase or decrease proportionally causing the grades between sizes to be relatively the same. This is where the art of grading and measurements come into play. I can guarantee that actual body measurements are not this pretty or consistent. These numbers have been averaged and rounded and are based on a large body measurement sampling. The numbers have been intentionally made easy to work with. Your measurements should be easy to work with too and you can adjust them as necessary.
What about accuracy? Rounding does introduce inaccuracies in your measurement charts, but only a little. If you look at growth charts, you will find that certain measurements will fit 50%, 80%, 95% or 97% of girls. If you adjust your numbers up or down, you will want to make sure those numbers fall into the 95% percentile. Adult measurements and sizing are similarly developed. Because these measurements are based off of measurement studies, it means a real girl will pick the size that most closely matches her measurements. Your measurement numbers just need to fall within the highest percentage category. You can round to the nearest 0.5" or 0.125", or whatever. Adjust your measurements so that you get a relatively consistent and even grade across the sizes. In my regular sizes I have a consistent 1.5" chest grade and a 2" grade for my plus sizes. Sure, you could throw in what ever grade steps you choose as long as you have justification for it.
Finally, I hope you can see the difference between the regular and plus sizes. Not only are plus size measurements larger, they are proportionally larger (the grade step is larger). This is why you absolutely cannot grade a plus size pattern from a regular sized pattern piece. Keep both categories, pattern pieces, measurements and grades separate from each other. I promise it will save your sanity.
I know this is a lot of explanation for this first step. If anyone has a question about this, just leave them in comments and I will try to answer them. In my next article in this series, I will explain how to create grade rules based off your first grading chart.
November 15, 2006
November 08, 2006
Tracking production with a numbering system
Every now and then it becomes necessary to know when and where previous production was made. This issue may come up when doing quality auditing or reviewing customer returns. If there is no tracking information included with a garment, it will be impossible to backtrack through manufacturing to correct problems. If you manufacture the same item multiple times and/or in different places, a tracking system becomes absolutely essential.
The best way to backtrack is to include either a cut number or modified style number on a care/content tag. Modifying a style number is the simplest method and may be best if you work with only a few factories and few cuts. Say you are cutting style #1001 and sending it to Bob's Contract Sewing, your style # could read BCS1001. This method works well if you cut one style at a few different places, one time.
If you manufacture t-shirts, you may need a more complex cut number assignment. Let's say your t-shirts are cut every month at three different locations. In this case, you will need to devise a cut numbering system. Start by assigning a number for each factory. Your cut number should incorporate the style number, factory, date, and some number. If we are working with style #1001, at factory 3, for the month of November, and this is the first cut of the month, the number may look something like this: 1001-03-1106-01. I added hyphens in this example so you could see each number designation. If this number is too long, some people separate the style number from the cut number:
Style: 1001
Cut: 3110601
It is not necessary to place the style and cut numbers on the care/content labels, but that is the most convenient place. These numbers are frequently placed at the bottom of the care/content tag just before the country of origin. Sometimes it is found on the reverse side of the labels or even on a separate label stuck into a side seam. Here is one example of including it on a care/content tag:
The best way to backtrack is to include either a cut number or modified style number on a care/content tag. Modifying a style number is the simplest method and may be best if you work with only a few factories and few cuts. Say you are cutting style #1001 and sending it to Bob's Contract Sewing, your style # could read BCS1001. This method works well if you cut one style at a few different places, one time.
If you manufacture t-shirts, you may need a more complex cut number assignment. Let's say your t-shirts are cut every month at three different locations. In this case, you will need to devise a cut numbering system. Start by assigning a number for each factory. Your cut number should incorporate the style number, factory, date, and some number. If we are working with style #1001, at factory 3, for the month of November, and this is the first cut of the month, the number may look something like this: 1001-03-1106-01. I added hyphens in this example so you could see each number designation. If this number is too long, some people separate the style number from the cut number:
Style: 1001
Cut: 3110601
It is not necessary to place the style and cut numbers on the care/content labels, but that is the most convenient place. These numbers are frequently placed at the bottom of the care/content tag just before the country of origin. Sometimes it is found on the reverse side of the labels or even on a separate label stuck into a side seam. Here is one example of including it on a care/content tag:
100% Cotton
Machine wash cold,
use non-chlorine
bleach as needed,
tumble dry,
low iron.
Size: 9M
Style: 1001
Cut: 3110601
Made in USA
Machine wash cold,
use non-chlorine
bleach as needed,
tumble dry,
low iron.
Size: 9M
Style: 1001
Cut: 3110601
Made in USA
I have seen a variety of cut numbering systems, so feel free to devise whatever method will work for you. Make sure to keep some kind of log in a spreadsheet or notebook. You can track what numbers have been used, what cuts have been sent and returned, etc. The most useful reason for assigning a cut number is to track problems back to a factory. If a customer returns something because a seam opened up, you can go back to the factory and alert them to this quality issue. Some factories keep very careful records of the operator and operation performed on a cut, so you can imagine how far you can back track and correct problems.
If you would like more examples, check out product in any major department store. You will see they require their vendors to incorporate a cut numbering system. It makes for a good industry practice.
If you would like more examples, check out product in any major department store. You will see they require their vendors to incorporate a cut numbering system. It makes for a good industry practice.
November 06, 2006
Inkscape for Technical Fashion Drawing
I discovered a few days ago a new software product called Inkscape. Actually, I have fallen in love with it. Inkscape is an open-source vector drawing program. I have used many drawing programs over the years and this programs fits my needs almost perfectly.
In college and later in employment I used a little program called Micrografix. I still love Micrografix. It was a simple vector drawing program and it was incredibly easy to use. It allowed you to scan a drawing and trace around it. You could select points (or nodes) on a line and change them from curves to sharp points. As a technical designer, I used this program to create all of my technical drawings. I had a library of component parts - sleeves, pant legs, collars. I could mix and match my pieces very quickly. The best part was it was incredibly affordable.
As the internet and technology revolution has sped up, Micrografix was left in the dust. It was acquired by Corel and pretty much abandoned. CorelDraw is very similar, but far more complex. I am sure it is a great program - I currently use PaintshopPro and love it. My mistake was buying CorelDraw Essentials. It is a horrible program. It has similar features as Micrografix, but only the "essential" functions from the better program CorelDraw. Editing points and lines are more difficult. Plus, the program is unstable -- it has crashed on me more times than I can count.
I have used Adobe Illustrator. I like Illustrator, but the program is big. It hogs a lot of memory and takes forever to load. Even though I had Illustrator available at work, I used Micrografix because I could have it open and switch between programs very quickly. Illustrator is loaded with many tools and options that are not necessary for simple line drawings. Plus the $1000 price tag is just too much.
Enter the open source movement. I have been waiting for a better option to come along and Inkscape fits the bill. It is very similar to Micrografix in what it can do. Quick node editing and great free-hand drawing tools. The entire program is a mere 17 megs. It loads quickly and even better, it is free. There are a few things that do bother me about the program. Some of the right-click menus don't make sense. Plus there are not many translations. In other words, you can save your drawing in only a few formats - svg, dxf, and eps. Still, many other drawing programs support those formats. The program has also crashed on me a few times.
Despite the few problems and annoyances, I still like this program. Because the program is open source, it can only get better (and it won't cost a fortune to upgrade!). Corel and Adobe should be very nervous.
October 30, 2006
Product Development Manager, hmmm....
Every now and then, I will peruse help wanted ads that may be of interest to me. I will look in places that I may be interested in living someday - say tropical islands. When I read this ad, I am sorry, but I had to laugh. I know what kind of salary I would ask for this particular position. I would consider this position a Technical Design position, which should be connected to the Design department. This would be a senior level position. Instead, look at the department it is assigned and to whom you would report.
After you read the job requirements, next look at the required qualifications. Wow, is all I can say. They are willing to consider someone with 3-5 years of merchandising experience (something unrelated to most of the job functions described)! I have shopped in the retail store this company owns and I know how many styles they produce each season. They have a men's, women's, and children's clothing line, in various sizes and fabrications that changes seasonally. What they really need is someone with 10-20 years of senior level Technical Design experience. The patternmaking and grading functions would be a full-time job all by itself. If you are truly interested in this job, you can read the entire job description at Expo, but be prepared to say goodbye to your life.
I really don't blame the company for this ad. I am sure this was written by a human resource person who doesn't really have a clue what is involved here.
Position: Product Development Manager
Department: Merchandising
Reports To: Senior Product Development Manager
SUMMARY
Responsible for style development and all components of spec packet, which include style, fit, trim, labels, hangtags, care instructions, care label, packing, wash test, and buyer samples. Works directly with production factories and vendors to assure all information is complete and consistent.
ESSENTIAL DUTIES & RESPONSIBILITIES include the following, other duties may be assigned.
COMPANY PRINCIPLES
As an employee of Company X, promotes the Vision and Mission of the Company. Performs the position duties and responsibilities in accordance with the Company’s Statement of Values.
1. Works with Art Team & Buyers to develop and design seasonal style line.
2. Analyzes samples and prototypes.
3. Sources fabrics and trims.
4. Works with factories to cost garments and arrive at best possible value through garment construction and fabric utilization.
5. Responsible for all style specification packages for internal & vendor use. Assures information is complete and consistent.
6. Works directly with factory on all components of spec packet. I.e. style, fit, and trim, labels, hangtags, care instructions, care label, packing, and buyer samples.
7. Finalize fit corrections on design fit model.
8. Grade garments on computer to be produced according to seasonal style line.
9. Responsible for all pattern making & revisions.
10. Responsible for the creation of all line sketches.
11. Responsible for numbering/tracking system for styles, fabrications and prints.
12. Responsible for all components of PDM computer software.
13. Assists in presentations of assortment plans.
14. All other related duties assigned by manager.
Requirements:
QUALIFICATIONS
To perform this position successfully, an individual must be able to perform each essential duty satisfactorily. The requirements listed below are representative of the knowledge, skill, and/or ability required. Reasonable accommodations may be made to enable individuals with disabilities to perform the essential functions.
EDUCATION and/or EXPERIENCE
§ Bachelor’s degree (BA) or equivalent.
§ 3-5 years of apparel product development or merchandising experience preferred
§ Textile Art, fashion design or merchandising education preferred
§ Knowledge and understanding of the relation between fabric, art, print, fabrication and style
§ Detail oriented
§ Strong analytical and problem solving skills
§ Experience with Microsoft Word, Microsoft Excel, Adobe Photo Shop.
After you read the job requirements, next look at the required qualifications. Wow, is all I can say. They are willing to consider someone with 3-5 years of merchandising experience (something unrelated to most of the job functions described)! I have shopped in the retail store this company owns and I know how many styles they produce each season. They have a men's, women's, and children's clothing line, in various sizes and fabrications that changes seasonally. What they really need is someone with 10-20 years of senior level Technical Design experience. The patternmaking and grading functions would be a full-time job all by itself. If you are truly interested in this job, you can read the entire job description at Expo, but be prepared to say goodbye to your life.
I really don't blame the company for this ad. I am sure this was written by a human resource person who doesn't really have a clue what is involved here.
Position: Product Development Manager
Department: Merchandising
Reports To: Senior Product Development Manager
SUMMARY
Responsible for style development and all components of spec packet, which include style, fit, trim, labels, hangtags, care instructions, care label, packing, wash test, and buyer samples. Works directly with production factories and vendors to assure all information is complete and consistent.
ESSENTIAL DUTIES & RESPONSIBILITIES include the following, other duties may be assigned.
COMPANY PRINCIPLES
As an employee of Company X, promotes the Vision and Mission of the Company. Performs the position duties and responsibilities in accordance with the Company’s Statement of Values.
1. Works with Art Team & Buyers to develop and design seasonal style line.
2. Analyzes samples and prototypes.
3. Sources fabrics and trims.
4. Works with factories to cost garments and arrive at best possible value through garment construction and fabric utilization.
5. Responsible for all style specification packages for internal & vendor use. Assures information is complete and consistent.
6. Works directly with factory on all components of spec packet. I.e. style, fit, and trim, labels, hangtags, care instructions, care label, packing, and buyer samples.
7. Finalize fit corrections on design fit model.
8. Grade garments on computer to be produced according to seasonal style line.
9. Responsible for all pattern making & revisions.
10. Responsible for the creation of all line sketches.
11. Responsible for numbering/tracking system for styles, fabrications and prints.
12. Responsible for all components of PDM computer software.
13. Assists in presentations of assortment plans.
14. All other related duties assigned by manager.
Requirements:
QUALIFICATIONS
To perform this position successfully, an individual must be able to perform each essential duty satisfactorily. The requirements listed below are representative of the knowledge, skill, and/or ability required. Reasonable accommodations may be made to enable individuals with disabilities to perform the essential functions.
EDUCATION and/or EXPERIENCE
§ Bachelor’s degree (BA) or equivalent.
§ 3-5 years of apparel product development or merchandising experience preferred
§ Textile Art, fashion design or merchandising education preferred
§ Knowledge and understanding of the relation between fabric, art, print, fabrication and style
§ Detail oriented
§ Strong analytical and problem solving skills
§ Experience with Microsoft Word, Microsoft Excel, Adobe Photo Shop.
October 27, 2006
Creating a grading standard pt. 2
In a previous blog, I wrote about the first steps in creating a grading standard, but failed to discuss the details. It would be helpful to also review my blog entry titled Too Many Sizes! In this blog, I will try to explain grading terms and the rules by which grading can occur. In the future, I will show how to develop your actual grade rules and how I grade a pattern (which is different from any other method I have seen).
There seems to be a lot of confusion about grading. Some people view grading as a magical process that can turn your beautiful pattern in one size into any other size you desire. Before anyone can grade your pattern, you should have already done some homework. You should have chosen a category, size range, and measurement chart. Your category and size standard should be fairly simple. You should only be working in one category and your size range should not have more than 6 sizes. You may want to work in men and womens plus and regular sizes all at once, but it is just not possible.
Now, I have to stop here for a moment and explain the concept of categories. I don't know if this is the appropriate term or not. I work in a children's category, but you may work in Misses, Juniors, Mens, or whatever. Within those broad categories, there are sub-categories or classifications based on your sizing system. A classification is based on a specific figure type such as Misses, Petites, Plus, or Talls. Each of these designations have a separate and distinct sizing system. You can't magically start with a Misses size and turn it into a Plus size by grading it. That is not how grading works, so don't even attempt it. There is no magic formula.
Grading is a simple, yet difficult concept for people to grasp. Grading is a process by which a base pattern is proportionally changed to create smaller or larger sizes. Grading is always based on a set of measurements specific to a size range and classification. Successful grading does not change the overall proportions of the intended design as the size changes. This is why a size range should be limited to about 6 sizes. Any more than that and the largest or smallest size will be proportionally wrong.
Successful grading is all about having a good starting point. A base pattern is a pattern created and perfected to fit a sample size. From that base pattern, you will create the other sizes in your size range. Now some of you want to offer Plus sizes in addition to your Misses Sizes. It should be as simple as grading your base Misses patterns up to the appropriate plus size, right? After all, it would save a great deal of work. You already have a perfect pattern and why would you want to go to the work of creating a whole new set of patterns.
The reality is, you will have to create a whole new set of patterns in a new base size contained in a new size range and classification. I know this sounds like a lot of work. The truth is that it is, at least initially. You will have to develop a set of base patterns for your Misses sizes and a separate set for your Plus sizes. You may sample a new style in a Misses size initially. Once a style is approved, your patternmaker will then create patterns in any other size ranges you want to offer. The process required to create the plus size patterns will be very similar, if not identical, to the process required to draft the Misses size patterns. There may be a little tweaking for fit during sampling, but the process will be faster than the original style development. Your patternmaker will already know what should be done.
For example, one company I work for will create a new style in a size 5 (in a children's size range of 4-6x). They then decide they want to offer that style in the entire range 2T-16 and plus sizes. I have already broken up the sizes into ranges of 2T-4T, 4-6x, 7-16, and 8+ to 20+. I then make patterns in the sample sizes of 3T, 5 (which is already done), 10, and 10+. The patterns for each sample size are then graded within their range. It may sound like a lot of work, especially if done entirely by hand. Since I work in a CAD environment, I can accomplish this task in less than a day. By hand, it may take 2-3 days.
Going back to our previous example......Once your set of Misses patterns and Plus size patterns are finished, you will then send those off to be graded. And this is where you have to create your grade rules. To create grade rules, you will need your measurement charts. So here is your homework assignment. Read your measurement chart. If you are offering more than one classification, compare the two. How does a Plus size differ from a Misses? Do your measurements make sense? Do the measurements decrease for the smaller sizes and increase for the bigger? In the next blog, I will show how to create your grade rules from your measurement charts. Once you see the grade rules, you will then understand why you can't grade a Misses size into a Plus size.
There seems to be a lot of confusion about grading. Some people view grading as a magical process that can turn your beautiful pattern in one size into any other size you desire. Before anyone can grade your pattern, you should have already done some homework. You should have chosen a category, size range, and measurement chart. Your category and size standard should be fairly simple. You should only be working in one category and your size range should not have more than 6 sizes. You may want to work in men and womens plus and regular sizes all at once, but it is just not possible.
Now, I have to stop here for a moment and explain the concept of categories. I don't know if this is the appropriate term or not. I work in a children's category, but you may work in Misses, Juniors, Mens, or whatever. Within those broad categories, there are sub-categories or classifications based on your sizing system. A classification is based on a specific figure type such as Misses, Petites, Plus, or Talls. Each of these designations have a separate and distinct sizing system. You can't magically start with a Misses size and turn it into a Plus size by grading it. That is not how grading works, so don't even attempt it. There is no magic formula.
Grading is a simple, yet difficult concept for people to grasp. Grading is a process by which a base pattern is proportionally changed to create smaller or larger sizes. Grading is always based on a set of measurements specific to a size range and classification. Successful grading does not change the overall proportions of the intended design as the size changes. This is why a size range should be limited to about 6 sizes. Any more than that and the largest or smallest size will be proportionally wrong.
Successful grading is all about having a good starting point. A base pattern is a pattern created and perfected to fit a sample size. From that base pattern, you will create the other sizes in your size range. Now some of you want to offer Plus sizes in addition to your Misses Sizes. It should be as simple as grading your base Misses patterns up to the appropriate plus size, right? After all, it would save a great deal of work. You already have a perfect pattern and why would you want to go to the work of creating a whole new set of patterns.
The reality is, you will have to create a whole new set of patterns in a new base size contained in a new size range and classification. I know this sounds like a lot of work. The truth is that it is, at least initially. You will have to develop a set of base patterns for your Misses sizes and a separate set for your Plus sizes. You may sample a new style in a Misses size initially. Once a style is approved, your patternmaker will then create patterns in any other size ranges you want to offer. The process required to create the plus size patterns will be very similar, if not identical, to the process required to draft the Misses size patterns. There may be a little tweaking for fit during sampling, but the process will be faster than the original style development. Your patternmaker will already know what should be done.
For example, one company I work for will create a new style in a size 5 (in a children's size range of 4-6x). They then decide they want to offer that style in the entire range 2T-16 and plus sizes. I have already broken up the sizes into ranges of 2T-4T, 4-6x, 7-16, and 8+ to 20+. I then make patterns in the sample sizes of 3T, 5 (which is already done), 10, and 10+. The patterns for each sample size are then graded within their range. It may sound like a lot of work, especially if done entirely by hand. Since I work in a CAD environment, I can accomplish this task in less than a day. By hand, it may take 2-3 days.
Going back to our previous example......Once your set of Misses patterns and Plus size patterns are finished, you will then send those off to be graded. And this is where you have to create your grade rules. To create grade rules, you will need your measurement charts. So here is your homework assignment. Read your measurement chart. If you are offering more than one classification, compare the two. How does a Plus size differ from a Misses? Do your measurements make sense? Do the measurements decrease for the smaller sizes and increase for the bigger? In the next blog, I will show how to create your grade rules from your measurement charts. Once you see the grade rules, you will then understand why you can't grade a Misses size into a Plus size.
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